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idle sensor/ idle prob?

elviscat

Member
Hi all,

hope all is well :)

i'm having an issue with idle to explain, if i pull up to a junction, or take it out of gear before i'm at a stop, idle falls to almost stall, (rarely stalls, but it does happen) so i have to keep it up a little by keep giving it a little gas, once the car has stopped the idle slowly recovers from say 100rpm to 900rpm. sometimes it seems if i let it recover to 900rpm long enough to solves the problem, until the car is turned off, once started again the problem reoccurs once again only to be fixed if i am stopped long enough time to let the idle recover to 900rpm and a bit longer!

sometimes it also seems if i leave it to warm for 10 mins the idle problem also isn't as bad, but comes and goes along the drive. Also if the car has had a long drive and is warm the problem doesn't exist at all.

Is this idle sensor, crank sensor?

any help would be appreaciated

Ta in advance :)
 
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Clean the Crank Sensor/ ISCV/ and TB. should help load's. And drive better. Also when was the Coolant temp sensor last changed. ?.
 
coolant temp sensor, is low temp from ktec, about 30K ago, is it possible to clean the iscv? if so how, TB? whats TB?
 
is there any point in me buying another used idle control valve, or would cleaning my current one give me the same?
 
CTS is low temp 30K ago, and Thermostat is low temp 30K ago, so therefore ISCV,

is there any point in me buying a used ISCV, or would cleaning my current one give me the same as buying a second hand one. i.e. can this be cleaned allowing it to work correctly, or should i buy a second hand working ISCV?
 
Are you sure you mean the CTS and not the fan switch?
The CTS goes in the head and the fan switch in the radiator.

You would usually buy a low temp thermostat and low temp fan switch as a pair, i've not heard of a low temp CTS, CTS of course meaning coolant temp sensor.
The Fan Switch is the one that tells the fan when to go on and off, a low temp fan switch switching the fan on at a lower temp than the standard one
 
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sorry yes low temp fan switch, low temp thermostat...

CTS then on the top of the piece that bolts on side of head or ISCV!
is there any point in me buying a used ISCV, or would cleaning my current one give me the same as buying a second hand one. i.e. can this be cleaned allowing it to work correctly, or should i buy a second hand working ISCV?
 
Bung in a new CTS and clean up your current ISCV.

You can get a new CTS for under £20 at places like euro car parts or GSF

Depending on the head you have, the CTS is either bolted into the thermostat housing or into the head itself, there should be two sensors next to each other, the one with the brown plug is the temp sender to the dashboard, the other being the CTS which iirc should have a white plug
 
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is ok i wouldn't ever put another euro crap part on my car again after the rear engine mount lasted 2 months from there and was so much of a b**sturd to replace with a renault with engine engine in, i promised myself....no more europarts..:)
 
i had the ISCV off, cleaned etc, pluged it in while ignition is on, and the car opens it fine, so have ordered a CTS and we'll see what happens tomorrow
 
well replaced CTS in case, still same

Road speed sensor round the speedo cable at the gearbox end is that right!

is this on it's own or part of the cable, i.e. easy replaceable ? i notice a single brown wire coming out of the loom there, but sure if it's going this sensor or starter!

Also hunting above 1000-1200rpm sat stationary at mo, again after driving sometimes sorts itself out to 900rpm at lights sometimes 1200rpm !!

if it't hunting sat still could this still be road speed sensor, i.e. faulty therefore messing with setup sat still, or something else?

Also the idle control valve i noticed when pluggin it in with ignition on , it filced it open ok, it is supposed to flick back to closed when off power? or does the car reverse the charge to close it? i was thinking if this was closing then wouldn't this effectivly be choking the car, therefore the increased revs?

Also throttle cable is fine, and arm it goes on to is all way back against the stop

else i was thinking would a faulty lambda do this?
wtf here we go with the unfixable fault everyone seems to get
 
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