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Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Cheers mate, bit gutted i cant run it in asap, but i guess i should be able to get it ran in and mapped before winter in prep for next year if all else fails.
This pic popped up on facebook today from back in the day Santa Pod toilet run, Kris M driving @Big Steve - Raider on the roof and me stood on the rear bumper as no room inside
Cheers mate, bit gutted i cant run it in asap, but i guess i should be able to get it ran in and mapped before winter in prep for next year if all else fails.
This pic popped up on facebook today from back in the day Santa Pod toilet run, Kris M driving @Big Steve - Raider on the roof and me stood on the rear bumper as no room inside
View attachment 148225
So many happy memories of that night, camping at Pod.. Crazy!!!
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Updates
Renewed insurance with Greenlight, fully comp, agreed value for me and the mrs £250 for the year, cheap as chips.
Needed to give it a start up to leak test the cooling system and a couple of oil fittings. Fired up willing and no issues, batt light was on so give the alternator connector a remove/refit as i had been in that area fitting the boost hoses which cured that issue. Give it a little rev and noticed the fuel pump noise really pick up the pace which seemed a little strange, so went through the menu on the stack dash to display voltage, 14.4v on idle, when revved to 2k rpm 16.5 volts
that will be the regulator shot and overcharging.
Turned engine off to save frying anything, tried to remove the alternator reg in situ as access was easy but fitted with the tightest slotted screws ever. Had to resort to taking it off, replaced with a new one off a recon volvo alternator i had in stock. Turned out to be a good move, as the bushes were worn right down on current regulator.
Refitted and fired up, and seen 13.8 volts whem revved, a lot safer than last time. Ran it to the rad fan kicked in, tweaked the idle cells on the map slightly to lean the idle off. Intetestingly with a stock thermostat and rad fan switch, it runs loads cooler on idle on EFI compared to carburettor. Highest recorded coolant temp i have seen is 80deg on the Stack dash, slightly less on ecu and the rad fan does not cut in very often, as any gtt owners know the fan usually cuts in every minute or so on idle.
Took it for a run down the drive and back and clutch/gears work ok so good to go for road test.
Renewed insurance with Greenlight, fully comp, agreed value for me and the mrs £250 for the year, cheap as chips.
Needed to give it a start up to leak test the cooling system and a couple of oil fittings. Fired up willing and no issues, batt light was on so give the alternator connector a remove/refit as i had been in that area fitting the boost hoses which cured that issue. Give it a little rev and noticed the fuel pump noise really pick up the pace which seemed a little strange, so went through the menu on the stack dash to display voltage, 14.4v on idle, when revved to 2k rpm 16.5 volts
that will be the regulator shot and overcharging.Turned engine off to save frying anything, tried to remove the alternator reg in situ as access was easy but fitted with the tightest slotted screws ever. Had to resort to taking it off, replaced with a new one off a recon volvo alternator i had in stock. Turned out to be a good move, as the bushes were worn right down on current regulator.
Refitted and fired up, and seen 13.8 volts whem revved, a lot safer than last time. Ran it to the rad fan kicked in, tweaked the idle cells on the map slightly to lean the idle off. Intetestingly with a stock thermostat and rad fan switch, it runs loads cooler on idle on EFI compared to carburettor. Highest recorded coolant temp i have seen is 80deg on the Stack dash, slightly less on ecu and the rad fan does not cut in very often, as any gtt owners know the fan usually cuts in every minute or so on idle.
Took it for a run down the drive and back and clutch/gears work ok so good to go for road test.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Fairly large update
Cleaned up the Extra last week. Started by jacking the front up and cleaning out the arches. I had wondered why the lower wings had rotted quite a bit over the years considering its been garaged forever. Removed arch liners to reveal solid mud up the pillar, that would explain the rust.
Full shovels worth. Sill looks good and solid with only surface rust so cant moan.
Might have lasted a bit longer if i had cleaned it out ten years ago, but when i built this it was driven and not washed, and didnt even think about keeping it for a longer period.
Anyway rust treated and put back together, BH autofoam and rinse, 2 bucket wash, a quick go over with Sonax BSD and Autoglym trim gel, tyre black and it looks half decent for an old van.
Plate off track look.
inside pics showing all the graffiti in the rear, some poss nsfw :LOL:
Bumped into my mot tester last week on the shopping run. He was parked near my blue clio in Asda carpark and we had a bit of craic at a safe distance of course, and he asked how the Extra was coming together. Told him the craic, that its ready for road but a bit gutted with the whole situation so had not drove it yet and not even thought about it. He advised that no mots or work were booked in for last Sat, with him literally the only person in the garage and give me the green light for an mot at safe distance and book it in around next journey out for essentials.
Took it for mot, i had not drove it but the mot station is on my doorstep approx 1mile away. Little bit nervous initially as everything has changed and i had done quite a few changes to the base map, however it drove absoultely great on the first drive.
Passed mot no problem, and then had to drop off some supplies for the mrs Dad as he is housebound at the moment and in bad health so good excuse to have a short drive.
Inital thoughts on efi, drives great on base map, engine feels very responsive but still makes all the right noises so has not lost the character. Ive only used low load/low boost and lots of engine braking to force the rings tight up against the cylinders. Fuelling seems good, ive set it up to run in closed loop at under 100KPA on the map so its generally around 14afr when cruising, but richens up straight away when on boost to 12.0 and dropping to mid 11's so safe as houses. I bottled it at 8lbs as no knock detection and ign map might be way off, but it felt willing and wanted to go.
Also noticed that the coolant temp lingers around 76deg on the move, quite a bit lower than carb, i assume the engine is very happy with an injector per cylinder.
Its got no oilcooler on at the moment, ive left it off for running in purposes and to see what oil temps are like without it. Ive not seen oil temp raise above 67-70deg so i assume it wont be needed for road use, may need a small one for track, will see.
Cleaned up the Extra last week. Started by jacking the front up and cleaning out the arches. I had wondered why the lower wings had rotted quite a bit over the years considering its been garaged forever. Removed arch liners to reveal solid mud up the pillar, that would explain the rust.
Full shovels worth. Sill looks good and solid with only surface rust so cant moan.
Might have lasted a bit longer if i had cleaned it out ten years ago, but when i built this it was driven and not washed, and didnt even think about keeping it for a longer period.
Anyway rust treated and put back together, BH autofoam and rinse, 2 bucket wash, a quick go over with Sonax BSD and Autoglym trim gel, tyre black and it looks half decent for an old van.
Plate off track look.
inside pics showing all the graffiti in the rear, some poss nsfw :LOL:
Bumped into my mot tester last week on the shopping run. He was parked near my blue clio in Asda carpark and we had a bit of craic at a safe distance of course, and he asked how the Extra was coming together. Told him the craic, that its ready for road but a bit gutted with the whole situation so had not drove it yet and not even thought about it. He advised that no mots or work were booked in for last Sat, with him literally the only person in the garage and give me the green light for an mot at safe distance and book it in around next journey out for essentials.
Took it for mot, i had not drove it but the mot station is on my doorstep approx 1mile away. Little bit nervous initially as everything has changed and i had done quite a few changes to the base map, however it drove absoultely great on the first drive.
Passed mot no problem, and then had to drop off some supplies for the mrs Dad as he is housebound at the moment and in bad health so good excuse to have a short drive.
Inital thoughts on efi, drives great on base map, engine feels very responsive but still makes all the right noises so has not lost the character. Ive only used low load/low boost and lots of engine braking to force the rings tight up against the cylinders. Fuelling seems good, ive set it up to run in closed loop at under 100KPA on the map so its generally around 14afr when cruising, but richens up straight away when on boost to 12.0 and dropping to mid 11's so safe as houses. I bottled it at 8lbs as no knock detection and ign map might be way off, but it felt willing and wanted to go.
Also noticed that the coolant temp lingers around 76deg on the move, quite a bit lower than carb, i assume the engine is very happy with an injector per cylinder.
Its got no oilcooler on at the moment, ive left it off for running in purposes and to see what oil temps are like without it. Ive not seen oil temp raise above 67-70deg so i assume it wont be needed for road use, may need a small one for track, will see.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Quick stop to check fluids
Forgot how good it sounds. Ive had to add some ign timing to the 0KPA cells on the map as they were set at 0deg between 2-5krpm which give asbo style bangs on overrun. Dialled in some regular numbers and it still pops and bangs on overrun but it sounds great.
Had a good look around it after initial shakedown and nothing to report, coolant is still full and oil still on the max. Took turbo oil pre filter apart to check for swarf and nothing to see.
Have got my money out and bought the expensive gps speedo module for the stack dash.
Such a buzz to drive it again after all these years. Roll on mapping when Efi parts open up again.
Thanks for reading!
Forgot how good it sounds. Ive had to add some ign timing to the 0KPA cells on the map as they were set at 0deg between 2-5krpm which give asbo style bangs on overrun. Dialled in some regular numbers and it still pops and bangs on overrun but it sounds great.
Had a good look around it after initial shakedown and nothing to report, coolant is still full and oil still on the max. Took turbo oil pre filter apart to check for swarf and nothing to see.
Have got my money out and bought the expensive gps speedo module for the stack dash.
Such a buzz to drive it again after all these years. Roll on mapping when Efi parts open up again.
Thanks for reading!
DaveL485
Staff member
If the stack sensor is calibrated to the stack dash, recalibrate the ECU sensor in the software to match it. You just run it up from cold and click the calibration of each 5° increment as it clicks up on the stack one, to match.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Good idea, stack sensor is calibrated to the dash and supposed to be very accurate. The dash/ecu are within 5deg of each other when driving so prob not too much of an issue, also opposite sides of the head for each sensor, so no idea if that changes anything. Will go with it for now.
Still impressed with how cool it runs even wit 83deg stat..the rad fan hardly comes on with stock gtt switch. Large diesel fan too so its on then straight off.
The old Van continues to impress mate!
Quick question about running a car in that’s just been built @Brigsy ??
My Clio has had its Engine all rebuilt and I’m a little puzzled what the right thing is to do to break it in, when It needs an MOT before its fully road legal...?
DaveL485
Staff member
If you're bored then wire the fan in to the ECU. Use one of the non-PWM aux outputs, set it to "Water temp" and you can set the on and off temps, I ran mine at 95° on 92° off I think. You can adjust when the fan comes on and when it goes off by engine temp (which preempts the manual switch at the back of the rad). Also I configured one of the ECU LED's to match it so it gave an indicator that it was on, though you could whack one on the dash too as a parallel circuit off the aux output. Obviously the aux output is your switch to earth trigger for the relay on/off.
If I have another spare output by the time i'm done, I was thinking about a crystal buzzer wired in to scream if the temp goes over 105° or something too, good old Renault paranoia.
DaveL485
Staff member
The old Van continues to impress mate!
Quick question about running a car in that’s just been built @Brigsy ??
My Clio has had its Engine all rebuilt and I’m a little puzzled what the right thing is to do to break it in, when It needs an MOT before its fully road legal...?
I always liked the thought behind this process.
Puma Race Engines - How to run in a new engine
Puma Race Engines specialise in cylinder head flow development and high performance engine building
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Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
The old Van continues to impress mate!
Quick question about running a car in that’s just been built @Brigsy ??
My Clio has had its Engine all rebuilt and I’m a little puzzled what the right thing is to do to break it in, when It needs an MOT before its fully road legal...?
Long way round to mot station, your legal with insurance and booked in for mot. Include some wide open throttle and engine braking from high rpm to force the rings against the cylinders, might need to be careful if its not a stock engine i guess if not mapped to suit. Ten mile or so should be enough, and tell mot tester its a fresh engine dont leave it idling for ever. Mine is on a base map so couldnt do any wide open throttle but done enough to seat the rings before it got to the garage, and same after mot.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
I have an aux output set up for fan already, 91-87. Stock setup works grand though so will prob leave it be for now, ive just rewired half of it. Buzzer for fan, you what haha, dont panic. Ive got over the paranoia with these engines a long time ago
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Fitted the Stack gps module yesterday, i could have rammed it behind the dash but stashed it in the cubby hole for easy access to the calibrate button. Dead easy to install, simple plug into the stack wiring and fit the antenna in the windscreen area, its a small discreet magnetic antenna so stuck it on the A pillar.
Pulled out for a short drive to the shops to test
Dash needed some settings changed as was massively overreading initially, but got that dialled in and seems to be very accurate, really fast to respond so quite pleased with the result. Recalled peak details on the stack dash.
Had a little issue rear its head..the battery on the Extra is 18month old but hardly been used, ive had it on the trickle charge before the previous start up. Noticed that it cranks over steady away but not too lively, voltage dropping down to 10.5v when cranking on initial startups with full battery.
Last time i drove it i did not charge the batt, just removed the negative terminal. Had the ign on and off a few times yesterday and it was not flat by a long shot but voltage dropped to 8.5v when cranking. Started straight up, pulled to the front of the drive and switched off.
On 2nd start, the engine cranked, fired then instantly cut out, dash went off etc. Same again ecu voltage was dropping to 8v, but managed to get it to run with a bit of throttle that fired the alternator up.
Have come to the conclusion the batt might not be adequate with all the new electrics added, and going to beef up the earths.
Undecided what battery to buy, do i go for the diesel one it had on ages ago, or a modern gel type. I want something that will crank the engine fast and multiple times if necessary, no race style one hit wonder batterys.
Thanks for reading !
Pulled out for a short drive to the shops to test
Dash needed some settings changed as was massively overreading initially, but got that dialled in and seems to be very accurate, really fast to respond so quite pleased with the result. Recalled peak details on the stack dash.
Had a little issue rear its head..the battery on the Extra is 18month old but hardly been used, ive had it on the trickle charge before the previous start up. Noticed that it cranks over steady away but not too lively, voltage dropping down to 10.5v when cranking on initial startups with full battery.
Last time i drove it i did not charge the batt, just removed the negative terminal. Had the ign on and off a few times yesterday and it was not flat by a long shot but voltage dropped to 8.5v when cranking. Started straight up, pulled to the front of the drive and switched off.
On 2nd start, the engine cranked, fired then instantly cut out, dash went off etc. Same again ecu voltage was dropping to 8v, but managed to get it to run with a bit of throttle that fired the alternator up.
Have come to the conclusion the batt might not be adequate with all the new electrics added, and going to beef up the earths.
Undecided what battery to buy, do i go for the diesel one it had on ages ago, or a modern gel type. I want something that will crank the engine fast and multiple times if necessary, no race style one hit wonder batterys.
Thanks for reading !
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Going to try the Meg batt on to see whats what. Ive got some better earth leads to fit too, as the ones i fitted might be a bit border line. Alt seems to be working ok @13.7-14v when running with the new reg on. Im highly suspecting this battery as its always been a bit wank at cranking from new.
