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Extra turbo

make a day of it and travel a little further down to caffeine and machine and we can have a little meet up

Sounds good to me mate, with the current crack it looks like a summer sun holiday is off the cards so could do a long weekender as loads of holidays to take.
 
Cracking job Jon, makes me miss the old 5.

Definitely another shout out here for genuine jubilee clips, I ran some mega boost and never had an issue.

Cheers mate 👍Cant wait to get it back out and running. Its a shame your gtt never made it to mapping, as both c1j and the f4r were great spec. I was very close to buying your old c1j when it came up for sale too, just did not want too much hassle with the massive ports on the head.

I used to run genuine jubilees on every joint with no issues, and picked up the mikalor clamps when they were the new and everybody was raving about them, never really been happy with them as they always back off a little, the jubilees always stayed tight as fuck, so bit of a downgrade really.

I currently have plans for the next level which will be all steel bottom end and a hot cam, headwork too. If it all goes wrong and its an expensive paperweight, K20 is the next step, stock engine with boost, done.
 
Updates from the weekend,

Awaiting parts to finish off under the bonnet so cant really go any furthur forward until they arrive so doing the little bits. Finished the last little bits in the interior and give it a good clean up.


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Not too keen on the polished steering wheel anymore and fancied a change, so dug out a spare steering wheel and give it a makeover with bedliner paint, as i love the textured hard wearing finish. The boss was looking tatty so give that a once over too.

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Fitted, looks more oem+

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Pulled out the Leda front coilovers i bought a while back to clean up and check condition. The bloke who i bought them off reckoned he pushed them down once a month to keep the seals in good nick, i call bullshit to that as the springs are solid and i cannot move them whatsoever when built up.

I planned on doing this ages ago but did not have a socket the right size to remove the top nut, i took one of the legs down to my local garage and they did not have one either o_Oeventually we found out that it is a 26mm socket, queer size for whatever reason. Ebay to the rescue for a 26mm impact socket!

Gunned the nut off with my Dewalt no bother and stripped down, solid compbrake top mounts removed and springs off to reveal 350lb and 8" long. No way did the previous owner compress these by hand!

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Stripped, threads cleaned, degreased. Checked both shafts for movement and work fine, damping works ok. I was not too worried if as the price to get them rebuilt from Leda is not too expensive. Stripped top mounts down and regreased the spherical bearings as dry, could probably do with renewing them soon but ok for now.

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Rebuilt, threads greased with anti corrosion grease, and coated in acf50. I was very tempted to paint them black with bedliner paint but the tin is nearly empty. Just noticed i put one top mount on upside down, only loosely fitted though for now 😆

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Had a good look around the bodywork too, its looking well used im some places, and could benefit from a pair of front wings and a couple of other bits tidying up soon but still passes the ten foot test. Built to be driven, not to be washed 😆

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Had a good look round the underside, the front floorpan is absoultely mint due to the mega oil leaks over the years, but the rear floor around the fuel tank will need a clean up soon. Its easily mot passable for the next few years as still solid, and i would say more solid than 90% of the gt turbos out there. Its at the stage of fix it now, and it will last forever, or leave it 5 years to develop and spend time on your back welding bits up. Rear beam needs a rebuild, will drop that and the tank in the winter.

The current lockdown would be the perfect time to do it, but i have no gear and if i start then prob be off the road this year 😒

Give it an mot pre check, needs the brake pipes doing front to rear, as i pulled the plastic cover off revealing a 6" scabby section of brake pipe underneath. This is another classic mot pass, yet should fail as they cannot remove the cover to check the pipes. Cant moan as its still on the original 23year old brake pipes. Will get these done as soon as the local motor factors is open again, no biggie as the brake fluid needs changing anyway.

Also looked at date stamps on my r888, and the rears are 2011 so not the best, seem to be in ok nick and soft, so will keep an eye on them
 
Been waiting for the postman to deliver some small parcels for ages so i could make progress on the Extra, ordered them all almost a fortnight ago and just arrived.

Had an issue with coolant temp sensor adaptor leaking from the threads even with a couple of wraps of ptfe, so ordered a tube of Loctite 577 to seal the threads. New air temp sensor and custom hose adaptor to suit, new stack oil temp sensor to replace the incorrectly reading old one.

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Tried the 577 out on my air temp sensor, seems like good stuff.

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Air temp sensor mocked up in place.

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Typically work have given us a task to do from home now so cant get straight in the garage tomorrow. Will see.
 
Typically work have given us a task to do from home now so cant get straight in the garage tomorrow. Will see.
Are you on furlough mate? Be careful, it's actually illegal for you to work for your employer that put you on furlough, if you are on furlough.

I have a proper pipe flare, I can make them up if you send lengths.
 
Are you on furlough mate? Be careful, it's actually illegal for you to work for your employer that put you on furlough, if you are on furlough.

I have a proper pipe flare, I can make them up if you send lengths.

Not been officially told we are on furlough, just stand down/standby as far as im aware wfh with full pay, but we have no work to do really as all our work is site based surveying.

Ill have a measure up and will give you a shout cheers, be another job ticked off the list:)
 
Had a day on the Extra today.

First job was to retorque the head and check valve clearances, nice easy half hour job.

Had to change the stack oil temp sender next. Its buried under a load of pipes at the front of the block. Whipped front end and intercooler off for access, easy job as its all been off many times over the years

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Intercooler off giving easy access

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New sensor fitted, added a bit of Loctite 577 thread sealant, also done the gauge fitting on turbo oil feed as was weeping slightly.

Fitted cold side boost hoses whilst apart as access was much better. AIT sensor fitted in boost hose instead of inlet to avoid loads of heat soak.

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Started refitting the parts, looks badass with grill and no bumper

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Checked boost hose clearance against bonnet when shut and all good, its tight but the same as the old carb setup was.

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Fired the laptop up and checked everything was reading ok.

Ambient temp high today, took egt as baseline saying 16deg

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Ecu IAT 16deg, water 14deg

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Stack dash water temp 15deg

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Oil temp 16deg

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All close enough so should be ok on next fire up. A few small jobs to do now but its pretty much ready for road test. Roll on end of lockdown.

Thanks for reading!!
 
Done a few little bits yesterday.

Started off with oil and filter change as the oil had went black with the graphogen assembly lube from initial run up. I have a magnetic sump plug which was nice and clean, oil looked ok nothing to see really. Cut filter open to check for swarf, a few very small particles as expected from new rings bedding in.

Next job was coolant leak fixing, its had a few minor yet annoying drips of coolant. Pressured the cooling system up to 15lbs using an old header tank cap and a car valve. This revealed all the little leaks, just needed to go round and nip a few jubilee clips up and it holds 15psi no problems.

Pressure test in action

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Rolled it out the garage to clean up spilled coolant. Fitted a small bracket to the airfilter to stop it rubbing the paint off the inner wing like the previous filter did over the years.


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Quick wipe down for the hoses and bonnet

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Finished off by checking actuator preload with a pump and crack pressure is 18lbs so that can be low boost setting.

Need to pressure the boost circuit up for leaks and make a rad cowling next.

Thanks for reading !
 
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