Extra turbo

[Brigsy]

Corona update

Finished plumbing in the fuel system, officially hate braided hose and routing fuel lines, worst job ever :cautious:

Bridged the fuel pump relay wiring to run the lift pump to fill swirl pot and leak check, only one minor leak and needed to nip a hose clip up. Fired main pump up, and its super loud as expected, but no leaks on any an fittings, ramped the pressure up on the reg to 4.5bar all good static.

Filled it up with mineral oil and primed the oil system up with my home made tool and drill

Oil pressure went up straight away to over 4bar on the stack dash which is decent enough for one of these engines.



Tickled the starter and seen rpm on the laptop so plugged the fuel pump relays in and went for it. Was a nice moment to hear it wanting to fire straight away as i had changed quite a few parts and had to configure the trigger pattern myself for the new flywheel which is ironically same 60- as 172 clio.



Stack dash fired up

 

[Brigsy]

Ran it up to temp, little bit smokey initially from oil in the bores but soon cleared.



A few issues to sort as top water hose is leaking around the bleed nipple (cheap s**t chinese hoses) might change for oem. Minor oil leak from the oil pressure gauge connection just needs some thread sealant.

As new dash and ecu setup, coolant temp was difficult to monitor which was not ideal.

I know these c series engines very well and they can be a pig to bleed the coolant, however if heater is hot they are fully bled and coolant is circulating, so knew that was OK and rad fan had been tested prior to start. Ran it up until the rad fan cut in on fast idle, let it idle for a few seconds and idled sweet at 800rpm before shut down.

Pulled a plug to see what was going on, looked ok, as expected fairly clean.



Ecu coolant temp was reading way off and went up fast, noted 18deg before fire up so have recalibrated that, seemed to be around 20deg out from my reckon up.

Checked various areas of rad and hoses with an IR thermometer to keep an eye on things, and it looks like the stack dash is under reading water temp as only seen 50deg.

I used an aftermarket water temp sensor which was supposed to be fine, so have bit the bullet and ordered a genuine stack sensor at £56!

Interestingly it fired up although a bit lean, 15 ish afr at around 2k rpm, noted egts rising quite fast to around 700deg, upped master trim on ecu to add more fuel richening afr to 13s and the egt instantly dropped to 500deg. Never had an egt gauge hooked up so was a novelty to see.

Will attend to all the issues, re torque the head and give the coolant circuit a pressure test to cure any little leaks and next fire up will be road test, cant wait.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Adey]

that's awesome man a big step! sounds super sweet for a c1j too. great update

 

[Brigsy]

that's awesome man a big step! sounds super sweet for a c1j too. great update

Cheers mate

I spent a fair few hours on the rocker bar and spacer fitting and finding the least worn parts out of the scrap pile and it seems to have paid off. Hopefully will stay nice and quiet for a while will see

 

[DaveL485]

All seems a bit too easy Jon, aren't you supposed to have a couple of hours of head scratching before it fires up first time? lol

 

[Brigsy]

All seems a bit too easy Jon, aren't you supposed to have a couple of hours of head scratching before it fires up first time? lol

Far too easy mate, i was expecting crank crank, cough, backfire, repeat several times then it goes i was pretty pleased that my trigger config was correct.

 

[j_carter]

This might just be the best sounding C1J I have ever heard? Sounds silky smooth. It also sounds rather "tame" for a side exit? Awesome work, Jon. Hope you are doing well.

 

[andybond]

What boost pipe clips are you using @Brigsy ?

 

[Brigsy]

This might just be the best sounding C1J I have ever heard? Sounds silky smooth. It also sounds rather "tame" for a side exit? Awesome work, Jon. Hope you are doing well.

Cheers mate hope all is well i cant remember if the side exit was louder on the old engine, its been that long since ive heard it run lol.

What boost pipe clips are you using @Brigsy ?

Mixture of mikalor clamps and normal jubilees at the mo. Will prob bin the remaining mikalor for normal jubilees, as the mikalor back off a little over time and no performance benefits.

 

[andybond]

Mixture of mikalor clamps and normal jubilees at the mo. Will prob bin the remaining mikalor for normal jubilees, as the mikalor back off a little over time and no performance benefits.

Interesting.

Is there a brand of jubiless you normally use? I am refreshing mine on the exige and was looking at all sorts like the Mistamoto ones

Mishimoto Stainless-Steel T-Bolt Clamp, 1.89" (48.01 mm) to 2.13" (54 mm)

Mishimoto T-Bolt Clamps are constructed from rust-proof stainless steel and offer improved durability over traditional worm gear clamps. You can be sure that everything will stay in place because Mishimoto Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamps are equipped with self-locking nuts.

www.mishimoto.co.uk

 

[Adey]

Go for genuine jubilee, about £2 a pop but worth it. A mate of mine who drag races has just swapped out all his mikalor clamps for proper jubilee items they kept backing off leaking. (big 7ltr v8 tubbed chevete)

 

[Will D93]

I like t bar clamps m’sel..

 

[Brigsy]

Genuine Jubilee brand clips @andybond can get them tight as fuck if needs be. Still swaged pipes are always best to keep it all together.

 

[DaveL485]

Far too easy mate, i was expecting crank crank, cough, backfire, repeat several times then it goes i was pretty pleased that my trigger config was correct.

Good stuff, now will you sell me the triggerwheel?

 

[Brigsy]

Good stuff, now will you sell me the triggerwheel?

Get me some of cadburys finest and its yours

 

[DaveL485]

Get me some of cadburys finest and its yours

Deal (when I get back to work anyway)

 

[Brigsy]

Deal (when I get back to work anyway)

No rush mate its going nowhere, when this blows over ill have a shoot over its been ages

 

[Brigsy]

Stack temp sensor turned up today

Done a back to back test with the old sensor and ir temp probe

Old sensor said 40deg

New genuine stack sensor reported 18deg difference

Repeated the test with hot water and same result, original sensor seems to max out at 50deg. Stack sensor responds far faster too.

The aftermarket sensor was supposed to be fine on the stack dash, but as usual should take anything you read on the internet with a pinch of salt :cautious: looks like i will have to get my money out and replace the oil temp sensor too. Buy cheap, buy twice!

 

[Brigsy]

Ordered an Airtec cosworth grp a filter as the old JR cone filter i had was blue, did not really fit in with the new look. Forgot how big they are when unwrapping!

Fitted, i planned on boxing it in but too big so can stay as is.

Added some fuses for both fuel pumps under the bonnet. @DaveL485 linked me up with these, good bit of kit.

Awaiting a few small parts and should be complete in the engine bay soon.

Thanks for reading!

 

[andybond]

Kin hell. That filter is MASSIVE. Going to need a warning for parents of small children to not be near the car when spooling/boosting!