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5 GT Turbo EFI - GT Turbo

I’m sure you’re all bored of the same old pictures so I’ll refrain this time round. Pretty much back together barring oil change and sorting out water hose run. I’ve decided to try without heater matrix to see what actually happens.

Thr Current data shows my coolant temps sitting around 70c on cruise and no more than 90c when driven hard so cant see the removal of the heater matrix having too much of a negative effect but only one way to find out. If anything the car could do with running a little hotter in my opinion. The fact the heater has never worked since ownership means I’m not losing any of its other benefits. If all else fails I can always plumb it back in.
 
Agreed it will make little to no difference under normal conditions. The benefits of retaining are a bit more fluid in the system giving a bit more capacity helping slow the peak heat along with emergency fan / heater overuse to help it in real trouble in traffic etc

Oh and demist / warm car :read.gif::ae:

DG
 
FEDE280B-D234-4380-9862-DA6A160E2213.webp Took the old fuel pipes off this morning, just waiting for some more copper to come in to local motor factors so I can make new ones up. Interestingly no swaged ends on these . Ill be up and running by the weekend.

Just need to warm up, retorque head and set valve clearances followed by a good check over to make sure all is prepared for mapping next Thursday.
 
The copper pipe pissed me off trying to bend to shape. Even with a proper pipe bender the pipes still kinked and squashed too much for my liking. So given the fact time is of the essence and I was soaking wet I’ve ran 8mm fuel hose from front to back instead. I’ll completely revamp the hole fuel system later this year but this should be fine for mapping.

Just need to retorque head and set valve clearances and I’ll be ready to rock.
 
Well the car is fighting me every single step of the way.

Compression tested today and got these results as an average.

Cold Readings
No 4 - 8.9 bar / 8.5
No 3 - 10.2 bar /10.5
No 2 - 9.5 bar/ 9.8
No 1 - 10 bar / 10

Hot Readings
No 4 - 9.1bar
No 3 - 10.5 bar
No 2 - 10 bar
No1 - 10.5 bar

Wet Test
4 - 10.3 bar
3 - 12 bar
2 - 12.5 bar
1 - 12 bar

I’m confident in the fact the head is all good so going to need to strip and take a look at piston, rings and rod.

I’ve some serious thinking to do. It’s either break the car and move on or order a set of Wossner Pistons and Pec rods.
 
oh dear not good, what made you test it?

Just didn't want to waste the mappers time on Thursday so always planned to test beforehand. Would be even more soul destroying to get their Thursday and find the same issue exists. I am wondering If a rod is slightly bent?
 
Was thinking the same as the wet test hasn't raised the pressure back up. If it was bore related (rings/piston) id expect it to seal back up. Unless there's a huge hole in the side of a piston but you would notice marking in the bore for sure. There is an allowance between cylinders as a percentage but not sure what it is off the top of my head.
 
Well to be honest I always knew I was pushing the boundaries of stock internals and I have come too far to start breaking it up and selling off, I should of built it stronger the first time but was aware of the risks/consequences not to mention the fact it's massive ball ache to break.

Also need to consider the fact that It's unlikely I'd get back into a 5 with prices rocketing like they are, so I've emailed around asking for prices and lead times for Wossner pistons and PEC rods. I can get hold of ductile liners next day by the looks of it.

Mark G is already lined up to build for me again, this time I'll try and learn as well.

Will get the Forrest Of Dean massive round to help me get the engine out soon.
 
could just chuck a single rod in quick to get it back up and running for mapping, though if its done it now your probably not far off bending a few more
 
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