5 GT Turbo EFI - GT Turbo

[Brigsy]

Compomotives look good what size are they ?? 14" ?

 

[Mark Davis]

13 x 5 Jon, ET45. Probably need some spacers, just hope the wheel top right is ok. Taken a bit of a punt to be honest.

 

[DaveL485]

Impulse buys rock.

Theyre also why im perpetually poor.

 

[Mark Davis]

Fitted gear linkage yesterday and went for a test drive this morning. Sadly I didn't get any further than 15 feet from my road until I lost gear selection. Turns out circlip had fallen out which meant bush could come loose completely. No doubt user error on my part. Ordered another one although in many ways not a bad thing as I've managed to make the gear selection must smoother as a result of checking over again.

Also found a decent size split in water hose that goes from water pump to header tank. Replacement sorted thanks to Matty Clements. (Not sure if he's on here) Glad I spotted now and not miles from home or on rollers.

 

[DaveL485]

(Not sure if he's on here)

He is the one and only @Jesus in the seat of a five

 

[Mark Davis]

@Jesus in the seat of a five has also kindly offered to help out getting me to EFI parts in a few weeks. Top man and a big help.

 

[Mark Davis]

FPR fitted in the correct position tonight.

 

[DaveL485]

FPR fitted in the correct position tonight.

I need some fittings for that type of reg, any idea where I can get some?

 

[Mark Davis]

@DaveL485 In terms of the barb fittings I bought these - AN-6 to 5/16" 7mm - 8mm PUSH BARB HOSE TAIL Straight Fitting Adapter Fuel Oil

The actual bracket came with the FPR itself.

 

[DaveL485]

@DaveL485 In terms of the barb fittings I bought these - AN-6 to 5/16" 7mm - 8mm PUSH BARB HOSE TAIL Straight Fitting Adapter Fuel Oil

The actual bracket came with the FPR itself.

Ah now I have that fitting and it doesn't look like it fits properly to me. I had a snoop round and it needs an AN6 to a 9/16 boss with a rubber O ring seal... how have you sealed your fitting?
AN -6 (AN6 AN 06) to ORB-6 (9/16" UNF) O-Ring Boss Adapter

 

[Mark Davis]

I have o-rings sealing both inlet/outlet ports. They either came with the barb fitting or the FPR itself. I can't remember which.
The gauge is just sealed with PTFE tape.

 

[Mark Davis]

Managed to bracket up the coil pack and although not amazing it's more than solid and up to the job.

Also fitted the circlip on gear linkage that just fell out within a few feet of driving, hopefully when I road test it stays in this time. I think I've got the shifter as good as I can get it without a road test but waiting on a water hose from @Jesus in the seat of a five.

Started to look at vac pump location and behind scuttle looks like a perfect spot, can easily T into brake servo vac hose from there. I just need some kind of custom bracket.

Final bits outstanding now are an awkward hose from ISCV to boost t piece, a trip to Forge needed for that. Then ALS valve hose to boost hose.

Oh yeah the compomotives have gone off for a refurb.

Agreed with Scoff to map as normal on 4th Sept and then once car is running spot on book back in to map in ALS and some additional wiring for switch. We need to find a way to activate vac pump whilst ALS is active and at zero the throttle. The current ECU diagrams are way over my head.

 

[|sAs|]

Is the vac pump fast enough to generate enough for the brake servo if it only activates when ALS is active and the zero throttle?
I don't know the specifics of ALS, but is it a switch that is activated for the whole time you intend to use ALS maybe you should run the pump during that time as well, not just with zero throttle?

 

[DaveL485]

We need to find a way to activate vac pump whilst ALS is active and at zero the throttle. The current ECU diagrams are way over my head.

As the ECU is controlling the ALS, you will probably be able to trigger the Vac pump from (the same) or (another) Aux output with a relay.

 

[Mark Davis]

Is the vac pump fast enough to generate enough for the brake servo if it only activates when ALS is active and the zero throttle?
I don't know the specifics of ALS, but is it a switch that is activated for the whole time you intend to use ALS maybe you should run the pump during that time as well, not just with zero throttle?

Whether the vac pump is fast enough remains to be seen but by all accounts this has been ran on numerous other applications so the theory is solid enough.
My limited understanding with ALS is once switched on the ECU will only retard timing when it senses zero throttle position at which point ISCV opens so zero vac for brake servo. Obviously the theory is the servo pump is operated/switched on at the same time as ALS to provide vac for brakes. It's not clear to me yet why having the servo pump activated ONLY at zero throttle is vital, that is something I am querying at the moment because like you I always thought it was much simpler to have servo pump activated at ALL times once ALS switch is activated.

The reason for getting the car mapped normally first and then sorting ALS later is for these exact reasons. It is going to take a little bit of trial and error until we get it right.

 

[Mark Davis]

As the ECU is controlling the ALS, you will probably be able to trigger the Vac pump from (the same) or (another) Aux output with a relay.

This was exactly what I was hoping @DaveL485. I should have 3/4 spare still.

 

[DaveL485]

that is something I am querying at the moment because like you I always thought it was much simpler to have servo pump activated at ALL times once ALS switch is activated.

Well yeah, why not do that. Have the "ARM" switch turn it on. Power>Switch In>Switch Out>[Split] to ECU digital input and relay for vac pump.
You wont just lose vacuum though, when ALS is active you will have the legacy vacuum in the servo to use before you get hard pedal syndrome.

 

[Mark Davis]

Yeah Scoff did mention about digital inputs etc, well he mentions Digi 1, 2, 3 and 4 so I assume that is what he is referring too.

I am sure we can make it work with a bit of fine tuning.
Remember though, in reality I actually have two ALS valves. One EGR valve welded into exhaust manifold recirculated back into boost circuit and the ISCV valve. The ISCV will not be used for traditional idle control, purely as a device for ALS.

 

[Mark Davis]

Not been able to do a great deal today so just tidied a few things up from a wiring point of view, fixed new fuses for EFI install in place near existing fuse box and will mount ecu in glove box tomorrow.

On a slightly different subject I've been doing some digging to try and get a better understanding of the history of my shell as it's quite odd.

After speaking with the owner before last via email I was pointed to this build thread/link. NEW 5 Grey

Now car as we know it is sprayed white and scuttle is definitely tungsten grey but you can clearly see that the registration is the same as mine (within thread) and things like a smoothed front bumper, battery clip and blue from door (same as mine underneath white paint) all match mine so I'm convinced this is my shell. The aforementioned owner did mention he sprayed it white in and out.

What's always confused me is 1) I thought tungsten was phase 2 only 2) My VIN is random and not a traditional GTT VIN. Again the previous owner told me he sent off for log book and sent VIN plate and car was all sorted this way. This is where I'm confused as I'm not sure on the process that the DVLA follow. On my V5 it shows original Reg date, previous owners, GTT in white etc so all normal. Do DVLA just provide a auto generated VIN If a car has its original missing ? I read on the DVLA site that original reg can only be kept if proof is provided.

Now HPI shows the same info, all clear etc but this time showing 2 colour changes.

Needless to say I'm confused. Any input here guys ? It's all for curiosity on my part. I've emailed this owner to ask him if he still has this VIN plate he mentioned.

Also turns out Mark Galvin worked on it years ago.

Anyway, anyone with any thoughts ?

 

[andybond]

Wonder if a ph1 vin plate was liberated from a ph1 shell and attached to a ph2 shell?