Bit of an interim update inbetween the project thread.
First wash since its been coated with gtechniq before csf. It was not really mucky, more dusty with a few bugs on the front and brake dust all over the front wheels. I didnt even need to contact wash the bodywork, BH snowfoam and rinse was all that was necessary and it came up great. Blow dry, wheels needed a bit of work but easily cleaned with BH autowheel/agitation with wheel brush.

Interior still pretty clean just needs a little hoover
I have also correctly wired up the Epas ecu. The epas had the usual box of tricks with potentiometer which was to put it bluntly, s**t.
The steering was too heavy at slow manouvres and too light at speed making the car feel nervous which did not inspire confidence on faster b roads. Even the mrs said it felt like the steering was way too light at speed and needed constant movement on motorways etc.
I was forever adjusting the potentiometer when driving, but it either felt like no assistance at all or way too much, compared to my other clio dci's with epas as standard fit which feel acceptable. Also felt like the epas was cutting out on idle and not working.
I pulled out the s**t box of tricks and wired the epas ecu up properly. I done a bit of research beforehand and
@incy-spider had some great info about wiring it up correctly on this post.
Hi there guys and gals ive just converted my clio 172 cup over to epas and ive came across a couple of issues but not sure what to do next as i cant find anyone that has the same issue. the first problem is that when moving the car in the garage at full assistance the system doesnt fully work...
cliosport.net
Basically the issues with the potentiometer and box, is that it fiddles the vss and rpm inputs on the ecu to allow different amounts of assistance. The setup is flawed as vss only goes down to 14kmh so you never get the true light steering required for low speed manouvers on idle as it assumes you are still moving, so combined with lairy 6 paddle clutch, gripper plated lsd, low speed driving was a bit of a chore, and with this being a road car i wanted more refinement. Also the ecu adjusts itself so there is no need to even have the adjustability, let the ecu adjust according to vss and rpm, i.e. fully integrate it to the vehicle systems.
I wired the Epas ecu vss up to the oem stereo vss speed wire. Crimp and dual wall heatshrink for a proper reliable connection.

I then added the rpm feed from the Ecumaster Black ecu. This was easy, my oem dash is wired up to the canbus feed from the ecumaster, so i had a spare rpm/tacho output free. So added a wire to the ecu plug and into the white loom plug in fusebox, using the cruise control wiring in car to join to the ecu as it is not used.

I then wired up the diagnostic line from the epas ecu to the obd for a quick test. I used ren0link to get in the ecu parameters with minimum fuss.

I found that initially the rpm was half what the dash was saying so simply increased the multiplier on the ecumaster tacho settings to 2 and the rpm then read correct to the dash.

Note can to usb stream running in the background as was doing some canbus sniffing using ecumaster usb to can module.
Tested and working great, vss and rpm both working fine.
The epas works great now. Low speed assistance is good, steering super light and does not randomly cut in and out like previous. As soon as speed is up, the steering gives a weighted feel so half decent feedback. Its not as good as the oem Hpas, but more than acceptable, just feels like the dci or any modern car, no more nervous feeling at speed due to excessively light steering.
Will give it a good test on the Trophy weekender coming up this weekend.
Thanks for reading!!