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Clio Trophy number 54 aka T.Turbo

Updates.

Had a few hours on it over the week. Progress pretty slow but moving.

N/s roll correction spherical bearing replaced due to a little bit of play.
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Intercooler given a quick coat of vht. The intercooler is genuine garrett bar and plate core rated to 500hp. Works surprisingly well.
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Back in one piece. Fresh millers 10/50 and coolant filled with type d.
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No spilling here. The sealey filler is awesome.
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Aqua blasted parts cleaned and protected with Acf50 and the rest has had a wipe down.
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Still a couple of jobs to do before fire up, mainly refit passenger side driveshaft, fill with gear oil, refit the Roll correction lower bearing etc.

Also noted the N/S lower wishbone front powerflex purple bush outer casing was slightly bent as its the crap old type with the thin casing (torque - it breaks stuff!?). Haswell said he had issues with these in the the past and he had the casings spot welded and i noted this one one has broke loose from the wishbone. There is no play or nothing but needs attending to.

Luckily i have a mint set of reinforced/powdercoated 182 cup wishbones in stock with powerflex black bushes fitted so i can swap the full arms over and its done.

A few more pics that might be of interest.

The older purple powerflex bushes and damaged casing/spot welds broken.
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New lower arms with newer style Powerflex black bushes that have a shoulder to stop movement/washers to keep them tight.
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NDO gearbox in situ, knacker tight. The gap between subframe brace is not very big, engine and box more or less solid mounted on vibratechnics mounts and solid dogbone.


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Ac delete on traffic alternator mount for subframe clearance. I planned on changing this for a clio mk3 rs cup racer ac delete but it barely fitted so has to stay as is. Current setup seems OK.
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Hot side boost pipe to throttle body. Tight but does not touch rad. Its bumper and boost hose off to change oil filter.
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Air temp sensor is a right carry on to access.
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The joys of a megane engine and box rammed in the engine bay.
 
Sat update.

Started with changing the lower wishbones. Whipped them off and the powerflex bushes were in a lot worse condition than expected.

This beauty was not visible until removed as hidden behind the reinforcing plate on the subframe.
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Pretty bad, the thin outer casing on the early powerflex not fit for purpose. Im suprised it did not pull all over on the road but suprisingly little play considering. Stuck the new arms on with the new style powerflex black bushes with thick outer casing, and the washers that keep them tight.

Problem solved.
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With this done i cleaned the heavy brake dust off the wilwood calipers and reyland discs. Everything has had a lick of Acf50 for future protection.

Wilwood, ds1.11 and reyland 2 piece discs.
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Next job was filling gear box up with fresh Elf NFX. First time ive used nfx and it doesnt smell of piss like nfj? Anyway with that done i got the laptop out and connected to the ecu to attempt fire up.

Ecumaster.
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I unclipped the coil plugs and injector plugs, cranking the engine over until oil pressure registered on the gauge to prime the oil system. The pressure came up fast and the engine was cranking strong with the new optima redtop. Checked for any oil system leaks and fuel leaks, all good. Laptop was showing rpm and all other sensors were reading ok, it looked like it was good to go.

Reconnected injectors and coils and cranked it over. Did not attempt to fire. 2nd attempt cranked no fire. Ecu was priming the fuel pump, I then looked at the laptop and it had disconnected and would not reconnect. This was a bit of an oh s**t moment as i feared the software had gone corrupt on the ecu for some unknown reason. Had a quick look in the fusebox and reseated the ecu fuse/injection relay, reseated fuel pressure sensor plug, disconnected laptop. Give it another crank and fires straight up with no issues, laptop connects to ecu. Tested clutch, gears, all working fine. Clutch making the typical twin plate noise when depressed. Ran up to temp fully, thermostat opened and coolant levels settled.

I have an onboard data logger and had a look through the logs on the non starts. I believe it was one of two things. 1 - a power issue on the injection relay as it was not seated fully when fusebox lid was removed, no rpm registered due to volts going too low when cranking. 2- fuel system had been drained with fuel lines off and fuel pressure did look a bit low initially as stuck at 1.63bar but this could be default readings due to bad connection on plug to sensor. I removed and reseated the plug for the fuel pressure sensor as id removed it when taking the fpr off.

Bit of a mystery but its started every time since. Seems to run absolutely normal, considering the fuel is from July 2023 according to receipt in the glove box.

With that done next job was to build an extender loom for the knock sensor for mapping purposes. This has 2x knock sensors fitted, one for the ecu and another on the next hole along the block for the mapper to use with det cans. Unfortunately with the nortech plenum it is ridiculously hard to access either knock sensor unless bumper is removed, so to make life easier i made this extender loom that can stay fitted.

Knock sensor loom.
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Knock sensor location, hard to access.
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Tucks away under fuel rail, ready for fast connection of det cans.
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With that done i refitted the bumper, arch liners and wheels on.

Almost done.
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Geo looks a bit on the piss due to dci rack change and the rack needs the column re centering so equal lock to lock both sides as it is now slightly off.

Will sort.the last bits today, torque hub nuts and wheel bolts and then its test drive. Prob get a can of fresh fuel first as its now on reserve.

Thanks for reading!!
 
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