There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Clio Clio 197 with forged Megane r26 engine

Is this with a gas torch and brazing rod? Whats the fuel rail made of? (I have a gas torch, you see where this is going lol)

Yeah that's with a gas torch. Propane should be fine but I use oxy acetaline. I used silverflo sp40 rod which is rather expensive but you'll only need around 3 rods. You'll also need high temperature flux as stainless steel heats up very quick and when it gets to hot the silver solder won't take. An easier alternative would be to use copper tube, much easier to work with and braze up.
 
Yeah that's with a gas torch. Propane should be fine but I use oxy acetaline. I used silverflo sp40 rod which is rather expensive but you'll only need around 3 rods. You'll also need high temperature flux as stainless steel heats up very quick and when it gets to hot the silver solder won't take. An easier alternative would be to use copper tube, much easier to work with and braze up.
Interesting....I will investigate! Thanks!
 
Another update.

Unfortunatly my company has been put on short time hours so not much spare cash to plough into this engine build. Therefore I have decided to concentrate on the cheaper and more finicky jobs of the build to make it look pretty.

First I managed to pick up a second hand non res milltek which I fitted in a few hours, sounds epic and should go well when I put the meg engine in, as Ill be using milltek down pipe and sports cat so it should make fabricating the exhaust connection a bit easier.

Managed also to give a quick detail of the car before PFC, great turnout this year and the weather was hot and sunny which was a bonus too. All in all a fun day with plenty of tasty motors. I hope mine will be a bit more of a headd turner next year when its boosted.

Speaking of cheap things to do on the engine I decided to strip the alternator and check for functionality. Ill also paint this the same gun metal grey colour the rocker cover is sprayed in. This will look great, as the alternator is normally left bear aluminium due to how much of a pain in the arse it is to paint safely without damaging it.

Plans for next update is finish alternator and machine out the turbo housing for the 20T wheel that is due to arrive this week. Also picked up some brand new 630cc injectors for £90 today which is a bit of a bonus.

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_31A697E1_4022_4A7C_A322_2A543E48000C_zpswiulwer6.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_0774D11B_664A_4174_B5A9_D771895CDD43_zpsjodqnslr.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_28E1AFBC_40F3_4115_B183_94ECA2F65EEE_zpslimdv2r7.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_D2ABF3C9_C4B5_4FDE_A183_0FEA5E33441D_zpstgjhe39w.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_C4B47D6B_72AF_46B9_B3A2_33B406F408F8_zpsiygdusaa.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_1DBBED4E_EC6B_45D9_B753_8B78839492C6_zpsgoon8tfs.webp
 
Some little updates:

First and the most exciting thing is the 20T compressor wheel has arrived and it was certainly worth the wait. Beautiful piece of engineering. The 20T wheel is around 10mm larger on the inducer and exducer over the standard 14T wheel in a meganes turbo. should make for good gains and perform better than any hrbid turbos currently on the market, a true bolt on option. In the next few weeks ill hopefully machine the compressor housing to suit, making the custom tooling will be the tricky part tbh.

My injectors also arrived, tried to mock them up to my fuel rail and there was some slight fitment issues. These injectors don't go as far inside the fuel rail as the standard ones did, so the rail mounts had to be spaced out backwards and the holes opened up. Not perfect but I really cant be bothered to make up new rail brackets.

To keep me occupied in the week I carried on with the alternator. First checked the bridge rectifier was working. This is done by checking that the diodes operate at the correct threshold voltage att 0.5V. Luckily they had survived this alternators hard life so dont need to be replaced. I took the casings to work and sand blasted them followed by a lick of paint, they look brand new now and match my engine now. The coil windings were cleaned up and installed back in the casings. Next week Ill concentrate on the iron core of the alternator and give the spindle a clean up on the lathe with some emery cloth.

Some pictures as usual.

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_086274A5_AC10_4809_9C9C_97BD05B11D1E_zps3m6wm1cn.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_88F7DE60_B2DB_4300_B62B_DF5C5DB99C12_zpsexj5mzjn.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_1E1564BC_BF85_4513_AE63_2DBE0E124B95_zpsf4lp1wxl.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_9EEE6EBC_B01A_4AFC_89B8_985D481D0336_zpszge8dfbp.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_F8A6E238_B8FA_4E58_BEC8_64E8B4CEA741_zpsaf2lwy6c.webp
 
Exactly my idea!

The frenchies are able to extract 380bhp with a hybrid at 1,8bar

Don't know which exhaust and compressor wheel combo though
 
Very interesting on the alternator front. Most would throw it away and buy a new one.

That compressor wheel is stunning. I want one to make a clock out of :)
 
UPDATE:

With the alternator stripped I cleaned up the copper bushings on the lathe by taking a slight with a facing off tool, this got the bushings square, as they had got very concave from the contact with the brushes. With the surface flat the brushes will make a far better contact. Bearings should arrive this week so I can change them and also give the iron core a coat of hammer blow paint to protect it from corrosion.

Now onto the turbo, this week I managed to get the turbo CHRA machined to the new 20T wheel. I first set it in a four jaw chuck (This lets you accurately centre the component as the jaws are adjusted independently, this is needed as a turbo is fairly high tolerance), then using a DTI gauge to check it was centered within 0.01mm in the x and y axis. I measured the CHRA original size and then measuring the old compressor wheel, the size of the wheel was 52mm inducer and 53mm on the CHRA, giving me 1mm clearance. Therefore when modifying the CHRA Ill give a 1mm clearance too, so with the 58mm diameter on the new wheel, this gives me a diameter to machine the CHRA to 59mm. Using a boring bar I machined out the CHRA to the worked out diameter, didn't need to use coolant as cast iron is self lubricating due to its high graphite content. Now finally using a 45 degree chamfer tool I cut a 1 x 45 degree chamfer, to match the new 20T wheel.

The new wheel fits nicely now as you can see from the photos.


i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_FE459BAD_1671_4164_9688_A5112DC302F9_zpshd5ypkyf.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_CC50D8A2_D0CA_4FBC_8053_461604245678_zpswgnz0jba.webp



i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_14A769BD_C097_4EC2_8438_6C188DDA7E81_zpsswelba5s.webp


i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_A97AE32C_C484_4782_8B8C_013B684D7DD9_zpson9xy3mb.webp

i1373.photobucket.com_albums_ag372_stephenv92_324F4D92_125D_46E8_9258_3E49B9A4378B_zps9jqcipjs.webp

Thanks
 
Back
Top