Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Well done getting that sorted, looks like lots of fun......5 restoration trained you well 
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Chris74#
Well-Known Member
Definitely learned a lot with the 5 mate. Just got to take it 1 rust patch at a time with these Renaults!!Well done getting that sorted, looks like lots of fun......5 restoration trained you well
DaveL485
Staff member
One done is one less, you have to run out at some point!
Aldo
Well-Known Member
Wee bit of a hijack here. The Campus shell I've used has a little bit of jack damage to the area you chopped and replaced at the beginning of this thread. I'm not bothered about straightening the bent bit but the OEM underseal has started to peel due to the damage.
Looking advice with what underseal to use that ideally comes in an aerosol. Or brush on I suppose.
Looking advice with what underseal to use that ideally comes in an aerosol. Or brush on I suppose.
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
I went bare metal, then epoxy paint, then high temperature wax to all of the weather facing areas!
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
Continued on with the rust repairs! Got some cardboard aided design done last night and started to build the metal patch to close the hole in the inner rear arch. I bought some Cleoco's during the week, they are brilliant!
I forgot to cut the first patch in and welded straight over the joint! It doesn't really matter here as it will not be seen, but kicked myself for doing it! I also flipped the patch over and welded the rear of the welds so that I can grind the front ones off a bit!
Thanks for reading guys!
I forgot to cut the first patch in and welded straight over the joint! It doesn't really matter here as it will not be seen, but kicked myself for doing it! I also flipped the patch over and welded the rear of the welds so that I can grind the front ones off a bit!
Thanks for reading guys!
Great to see a REAL repair to a fuel tank socket area. It’s not easy by a long shot!!
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
Had a few hours at it today, Started off by grinding down the welds to the inside of the patch, I only flattened the rear ones as they won't be seen and will give it strength.
I then tried it in position again! Gotta keep checking!!
Had to make some minor tweaks, but then marked the front ready for cutting!
I then clamped the rusty bit back on to mark up the actual cut.
I cut it out with a combination of grinder and snips!
I then got some primer and paint on the back of the patch, Whilst waiting for the paint to dry I removed the side skirt to see how bad it is!
I got an offcut of metal and made a template of the shape of the cill!
I then double masked it
and got the flap disc on the go!!
lesson learned from the 5, only cut out what needs to go!!
I ground back to good metal, and then marked and cut the outer skin!
Looks like the inner arch is not too bad! but the inner cill is going to need some work!
Anyway, the paint dried!
Another trial fit and tweak! and then the nightmare of welding right up in the wheel well! Got burnt to sh*t, definitely need more practice at this type of welding!
It'll be OK once it is all welded in and ground back! I left that for a bit and got the plug welds in the outside face of the cap aperture!
Ran out of time there! will get them all ground down next time!!
Thanks for reading guys!!
I then tried it in position again! Gotta keep checking!!
Had to make some minor tweaks, but then marked the front ready for cutting!
I then clamped the rusty bit back on to mark up the actual cut.
I cut it out with a combination of grinder and snips!
I then got some primer and paint on the back of the patch, Whilst waiting for the paint to dry I removed the side skirt to see how bad it is!
I got an offcut of metal and made a template of the shape of the cill!
I then double masked it
and got the flap disc on the go!!
lesson learned from the 5, only cut out what needs to go!!
I ground back to good metal, and then marked and cut the outer skin!
Looks like the inner arch is not too bad! but the inner cill is going to need some work!
Anyway, the paint dried!
Another trial fit and tweak! and then the nightmare of welding right up in the wheel well! Got burnt to sh*t, definitely need more practice at this type of welding!
It'll be OK once it is all welded in and ground back! I left that for a bit and got the plug welds in the outside face of the cap aperture!
Ran out of time there! will get them all ground down next time!!
Thanks for reading guys!!
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
Thanks @Big Steve - Raider, how are you doing mate?12/10 for effort @Chris74# !!
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
So awkward! Yours looks bang on though mate!!
With the state of those arches and fuel flap, can I recommend dropping the rear beam and fuel tank. The rear underside on 1*2’s has several design ‘features’ that specifically allow water and crap to sit and rot the rear end of the car out. Look at the upper spring perch & the ‘shelves’ above where the fuel tank sit. I have restored the underside of 2 of these now and luckily caught them, but the rest of my cars were not as badly gone as yours. It’s all fairly flat panel and easy to fix for someone of your ability. But I can guarantee this will be the cause of the end for many Clios sadly.
Chris74#
Well-Known Member
I was considering dropping the rear beam as I am in there atm!
your comments have confirmed that for me Enjoy the captive bolts. Absolute toss pot of a design!I was considering dropping the rear beam as I am in there atm!
Aldo
Well-Known Member
Absolute twats. I ended up cutting 2 flats on the captive ends so I could get a shifter on them.
If the beam brackets aren't too bad, I'd be tempted to leave them attached to the body and split at the bushes..... thats if the beam bush bolts etc haven't seized in place...
DaveL485
Staff member
You know whats going to happen now you've said that dont you!
