Clio Campus 172 build

[Brigsy]

Ahh i thought it said 3 cranks only above.

Rev counter needle moving? If you can see rpm on live data that will give an indication of tdc working or not.

 

[Aldo]

Ahh i thought it said 3 cranks only above.

Rev counter needle moving? If you can see rpm on live data that will give an indication of tdc working or not.

I'll give that a go. It's odd that it worked fine the night before, and now its spat the dummy.

 

[Brigsy]

Has it ran out of fuel?

 

[DaveL485]

Has it ran out of fuel?

The amount of times this has caught me out...

 

[Aldo]

Well.... the tank was empty and I've stuck 5l in. I might fill it a bit more

 

[Aldo]

Stuck another 5 litres in it lol. Connected the TDC sensor back up, plugged in an obd reader to see live rpm. I'm getting nothing on crank, so hopefully a new sensor cures it.

Got it down on its wheels today which feels like a milestone. It's been on stands for a wee while!

Few little jobs left to do but I can't imagine much more than a days work.

 

[Norwich Nick]

Liked for the milestone, not the non starting! Hopefully you’re not far away with your day estimate

 

[Aldo]

Probably one of the more satisfying jobs.

 

[Aldo]

I dug the front bumper out yesterday and gave it a scrub. It had been laying behind my shed and had stuff growing out it.

Had the gaffer out giving me a hand.

 

[Aldo]

So back to the non starting thing.

I've fitted a new TDC sensor and checked continuity from the plug to the ECU. All good in that dept.

I've plugged a noid tester into each injector loom plug and confirmed that they are all getting a pulse. Fuel pump is priming and the rail has pressure.

I've had the meter on the coil loom plug and I'm expecting to see 12v there when ignition is at position 2. However I'm not. My wiring knowledge is fairly basic on these but from what I've read, if the fuel system is getting a go signal from the ECU then the ignition should see it too?

I've got my battery back on charge to see if that makes any difference tonight and I'm got diagnostics to go on it tonight to look at some live info.

 

[Aldo]

I was at it for a few hours tonight.

Started by adding a jump lead from the battery to the lifting point. Although I've remade all the main earth's.

Confirmed 12v at each injector, pulled the rail off with the injectors attached, cranked the car, letting them spray onto a PIG mat so I could see them delivering fuel. So far so good.

Onto the coil plug. Checked continuity from there to the relay panel, and I was expecting a broken wire.... nope, all good.

Tried a spare coil. Checked for a spark the crude way by earthing onto the block..... and I got a spark! .... wtf!

Still not starting.

Checked voltage at fuel pump, which seemed low. But it was priming on pos 2, and running whilst cranking.

Pulled the inlet and removed the plugs, cleaned them up. Whilst I was there I done a comp test which was good at least. All cyls showing 190 psi or thereabouts.

So by this point I'm quite annoyed. I've got everything I need but the bugger won't go. So I went back to the relay panel and pulled all the relays again, double cleaned them etc etc.

And it f@cking started!!! I've no idea what's going in but I'll take it

 

[Sparkysparks]

With my f4r swapped MK1 I had to wiggle the 3 black relays every once in a while. I was having similar symptoms as you. Once 1 relay didn't work they didn't trigger each other, or something like that.

 

[DaveL485]

I've no idea what's going in but I'll take it

Usually it pushes you to the point of burning it and then its just like "I'm fine now for absolutely no reason HAHAHA".

 

[Aldo]

I'm in the final stages of getting this nugget on the road but progress has been slow due to work stuff.

On a plus, whatever caused the non starting dramas seems to have been corrected. I've made a point of starting it every couple of days and so far it's behaving. I think it was a connection in the fuse box...

The fuel rail connection has shown itself to be a weakness after it blew off whilst the car was idling, shooting me in the eyeball with petrol. Ktec sell replacement ones fortunately.

Started the process of filling and bleeding the brakes. Still got a sh!te pedal but I'm getting a loan of an RS Tuner with the ABS module on Monday, so hopefully that'll be boxed off.

Then a few little snagging jobs to clear the lights on the dash and hopefully it'll be ready to book an MOT.

 

[DaveL485]

I'm in the final stages of getting this nugget on the road but progress has been slow due to work stuff.

On a plus, whatever caused the non starting dramas seems to have been corrected. I've made a point of starting it every couple of days and so far it's behaving. I think it was a connection in the fuse box...

The fuel rail connection has shown itself to be a weakness after it blew off whilst the car was idling, shooting me in the eyeball with petrol. Ktec sell replacement ones fortunately.

Started the process of filling and bleeding the brakes. Still got a sh!te pedal but I'm getting a loan of an RS Tuner with the ABS module on Monday, so hopefully that'll be boxed off.

Then a few little snagging jobs to clear the lights on the dash and hopefully it'll be ready to book an MOT.

Ive always had to buzz the ABS block to get a pedal on a 1*2, they just dont like to bleed out normally if the system has been emptied.

 

[Sparkysparks]

The fuel rail connection has shown itself to be a weakness after it blew off whilst the car was idling, shooting me in the eyeball with petrol. Ktec sell replacement ones fortunately.

Also another bodge I did on my MK1 and the current Clio is zip ties on the connection to hold it down, just incase it decided to pop off again.

 

[Brigsy]

Swap the orings off the ktec connector onto the new one. Its basically the o rings that hold it on

 

[Aldo]

Swap the orings off the ktec connector onto the new one. Its basically the o rings that hold it on

I fitted new orings to mine the other day, but the outer ring of plastic that ypu squeeze to release has cracked. £6 for two from ktec, which is surprisingly cheap lol

 

[Aldo]

My last post was clearly a jinx! Got my mate round on monday to help bleed the brakes using the RS Tuner.

Plugged the computer in and it will not detect the ABS system at all. We wiggled all the plugs, checked the condition etc etc. But haven't found anything so far.

I'm getting 12v to the two points on the multiplug where I expect to get 12v (only an educated guess). So my feeling is either, the ABS unit it toast or there's an OBD communication issue. I've checked maybe 70% of the wiring and it all looks good tbh.

Hindsight... I should have read for faults on the donor 172 before starting the strip. But hey ho.

This is a pic of the dash on the donor 172 just before it got stripped. My gut feeling is that the issue has been carried over to the Campus.



A question to people in the know. I've read that the ABS unit does not need coding but you need to match numbers. Which number would this be?

 

[Aldo]

Help .... lol, any info is appreciated.