Clio Campus 172 build

[Aldo]

Good little Autodoc find, so thought I'd list it here for reference. They were around £4 each

Clio 172 182 front outer ARB bush bracket.

Impergom 29446

 

[Aldo]

Having fitted the new aux belt setup, I wasn't too happy with the belt tension. So I had a sift through the gates website and ordered the next size up which was a 6PK1310 (6PK1305 is currently fitted).

Then spoke to a mate who runs a similar setup and he was supplied with a 6PK1310 from PMS when he bought the kit. The new belt arrived today and its a much better fit



When I was cleaning the belt guards, I removed the sponge seal from the plastic lower guard. Found some EPDM adhesive seal on ebay and fitted it today, the dimensions are spot on.

 

[Aldo]

Been busy with work and family things over the last week so the Campus progress has been slow. However, I've collected some bits and bobs that I'll be needing.

Picked up a stainless "longlife" exhaust from JMRS who is a bloke that runs a 1*2 breaker business on Facebook. I've bought a few things from him now and his service is spot on. I wasn't too bothered about which exhaust I was going to fit, as long as it had 2 silencers. Hopefully it's quiet lol

Also placed an autodoc order for things like gaskets, seals, spark plugs etc which will box the engine off.

Managed to paint the lower inlet and thermostat housing too, both have turned out quite nice.




Unfortunately the campus will go on the back burner for the next couple of weeks as I prep my Megane 250 for sale. In true shite luck, the clutch has started to slip. So I've got a genuine clutch kit and slave cylinder coming this week.

Such a nice car but it just doesn't get used. And for me, it's too tidy for track days etc.

 

[Ian_R]

Let me know how you get on with the clutch change.

 

[Aldo]

More odds and ends painted now and more getting bolted together.




I started a thread on cliosport.net regarding flywheel resurfacing. There were mixed responses but ultimately the naysayers provided no explanation. So I'm dropping it at a machine shop today.

I was heading out this morning to do drop it off and realised the dowels would be in the way. After some reading and people suggesting to drill a hole through the back of the flywheel to punch it through, I decided to do it my way.


I'll be able to dress the dowels before refitting.

This is now the bit that's holding the engine going back in (other than some cleaning). Off for a fortnight now, so I'm hoping for some decent progress once I get the megane clutch swapped.

 

[DaveL485]

Flywheel skimming is OK as long as it doesnt affect the structural integrity of it (you dont want it shattering at high RPM), and then you need to make sure you drop the cover mating face the same amount as the friction surface. If you dont reduce the face where the cover bolts on by the same amount you are kinda introducing "wear" and your bite point will be higher and the clutch wear life will reduce because you'll lose the amount of friction plate wear equivalent to the amount you skim the friction face.

 

[Brigsy]

Dowels usually come out ok with molegrips.

I know cast flywheels can go bang, but yet to see a simple skim cause it. I used to run slotted and lightened stock gtt flywheel, down from 7kg to 3.6kg, and sidestep the clutch on 7500rpm launches on drag radials. Gearbox broke a few times but no issues with the flywheel.

I think 172 fly is flat so no step as of such.

 

[Aldo]

Flywheel skimming is OK as long as it doesnt affect the structural integrity of it (you dont want it shattering at high RPM), and then you need to make sure you drop the cover mating face the same amount as the friction surface. If you dont reduce the face where the cover bolts on by the same amount you are kinda introducing "wear" and your bite point will be higher and the clutch wear life will reduce because you'll lose the amount of friction plate wear equivalent to the amount you skim the friction face.

I measured the step by rolling a DTI over it (all sitting on a wee surface table) and got 0.13mm which I'm guessing is a worn value. I've asked them to keep it the same.

Dowels usually come out ok with molegrips.

I know cast flywheels can go bang, but yet to see a simple skim cause it. I used to run slotted and lightened stock gtt flywheel, down from 7kg to 3.6kg, and sidestep the clutch on 7500rpm launches on drag radials. Gearbox broke a few times but no issues with the flywheel.

I think 172 fly is flat so no step as of such.

They were absolutely solid! I did try the first one with moles grips and it just started to chew it up. I have never launched a car anywhere near those revs

 

[Adey]

you'll only be taking a few thou off with a skim, nothing to worry about at all with regards to integrity on the thickness of a stock flywheel.

 

[Aldo]

Local machine shop turned the flywheel around in a day which was ideal. They've taken a fraction off it and maintained the step.



I've buffed the dowels back into shape and chapped them back in and checked the clutch cover place fits up.

Received my autodoc order of gaskets, seals and plugs required to finish off the engine. They're all fitted up as of last night.




The exhaust also showed up this week. It'll need a couple of the welds redoing as they're quite poor but overall, it looks spot on for the cash.

 

[Aldo]

Dug the engine loom out of its storage box last night. Its quite grubby, so it'll need a wipe before fitting the engine.

There's also a few chopped wires and some horrific DIY joins. However, the donor flamer I scrapped was a running car which is a positive lol.

Got carried away, as you do, and laid the loom into the engine bay. I've roughly ran it into place for the sake of identifying the connectors.



And an example of the sort f*uckery going on lol

 

[Aldo]

The 250 has been the priority this week but I've got a few odds and ends done on the Campus.

I'm painting my inlets satin black for a bit of contrast. Keep it all looking a bit OE and clean. So tested the paint on the TB.


I've still got a collection parts stripped from the 8v engine and there are a few items that can be used. The gearbox end cap is the same and will be used as the 172 box is really crusty. Also sections of the loom like the crank sensor wiring and connector is the same. So that's the next job, tidying up the 172 engine loom. Engine in within the next week.....

 

[Aldo]

A little bit of progress inbetween megane shenanigans. Good to finally get it off the stand.

News of CSF being at Angelsey have spurred me on a bit. Need to get it on the road ASAP and iron out any kinks.

 

[Aldo]

Nearly a month since updated this little turds thread.

Still haven't got the engine in unfortunately. The Megane threw a few curve balls at me and took some of the monthly budget away from the Campus.

I fitted up the gearbox only to realise I'd had a rush of shit to the brain and left the release bearing sitting on my roll cab . And then when I went to fit it, I found the guide tube to be quite worn. I've sourced a non OE tube on autodoc and it's on its way along with a new nissens radiator.

Also purchased a full braided line kit from BRT motorsport. At the rear, this kit goes from the solid pipes on the shell all the way to the caliper. Eliminating a few joints and flexis.

Was out at it tonight, fitting up the painted inlets, plug leads and throttle body etc.

As soon as the guide tube arrives, I'll get it swapped and get the engine in the bay..... famous last words.

 

[DaveL485]

You're always going to find little bits and bobs to trip you up on builds like this, just got to stick with it!

With those extended flexis, it does simplify fitting etc but you may lose a little resolution in the brake pedal.

 

[Aldo]

My new guide tube arrived aannnnnndddd its much the same feel as the lightly worn one I had. It's fitted. It's getting sent.

The plus side was I could attach the box for the last time (famous last words) and prep for slinging the engine in. Cleared the wiring out the way, rang my mate for extra hands and got going.



Finally! I've started laying the loom out, tidying bits up as I go.

I happened to be at one of the hubs the other day, and randomly checked for play and both bearings are shagged. I've not a clue how I've missed this. So I've got two new ones sitting reading to be changed.

Wheel wise, I was on the cusp of ordering a set of Evo Corse X3MA wheels in gold. In the basket, ready to go. Then I got a notification on Facebook of a set of 2118s second hand. It was a no brainer, and a third of the price of a new set. I think one will need a little refurb though.

 

[DaveL485]

I happened to be at one of the hubs the other day, and randomly checked for play and both bearings are shagged

Are the shafts in and torqued? The hub nut and shaft holds the bearings together so if the shaft nut isnt on and torqued they will have a load of play.

 

[Aldo]

Are the shafts in and torqued? The hub nut and shaft holds the bearings together so if the shaft nut isnt on and torqued they will have a load of play.

They are not!! I'll hold off!

They are extremely new looking, so was a bit surprised. I'll be delighted if I don't need to swap them! Cheers

 

[DaveL485]

They are not!! I'll hold off!

They are extremely new looking, so was a bit surprised. I'll be delighted if I don't need to swap them! Cheers

Shaft in, torque up, check for play at 12 and 6 o'clock. No play = bearing fine.

 

[Aldo]

It's been quite quiet on the Campus front recently. Lots going on at work and plus all this nice weather we've been having, I've been trying to make the most of it.

Ive been ordering odds and ends that I'm going to need in the coming weeks, ABS sensors have been a highlight. Since Renault no longer stock them, I'd found some info on the forums about using Triscan versions that had been successfully tested. So I ordered 4 from autodoc. On opening the box the 2 fronts were Triscan and the 2 rears were from another company called Stark. I spoke with Autodoc and they had stock issues with Triscan.

I'd been chatting on and off to @Martin_172 about it, and his 182 van was needing a pair of rears. So we set about fitting them to his van as a test. If they worked, he could keep them and order me another 2. Famous last words..... "it'll only take an hour.."



On the plus side. They seemed to agree with the car, showing no issues.

I'm waiting on a fluids delivery from Opie which should come tomorrow. Then it'll be shafts in, fill everything, and start to tighten stuff up. Hopefully not far away from a test fire.

Oh... and the Megane is gone.