Not sure if I will need to upgrade to an aluminium idler, it's got Metal Ballraces in the middle.
Yeah need an idler otherwise the belt rubs on the side of the water pump.
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5 GT Turbo Big Steve's "ST Cup" Car
- Thread starter Big Steve - Raider
- Start date
Yeah need an idler otherwise the belt rubs on the side of the water pump.
DaveL485
Staff member
If you're changing something tried and tested for something experimental with obvious negatives for no more than aesthetics then you're a mental case.
However, your car, your call. Wish you luck with it, and look forward to pissing myself watching you pushing it off the track again
However, your car, your call. Wish you luck with it, and look forward to pissing myself watching you pushing it off the track again
gtmatt
Well-Known Member
where did you get discs from mate ??So a little bit more time in the garage at the weekend and tonight, and I believe I've managed to get the Power Steering set up mechanically installed. As you may have read, my first idea was to go with a Renault 5 Monaco Mechanically driven unit, but thought better about that and have now decided to go with the Citroen Saxo/Peugeot 106 Electro Hydraulic unit.
I bought a unit off eBay that came with both the wiring and bracket which was what I was looking for:
View attachment 8291
The first challenge was to decide where to mount it...? Given that I didn't have an engine in the car, I couldn't look in real time, so I had to resort to some old Photo's of the complete engine bay to figure out where's a good spot..:
View attachment 8279
Hmmm... Just there I thinkLets just hope my guess was right!?
View attachment 8281
I managed to use the old bracket, and some existing holes on the shock tower to locate it nice & snug on the N/S of the Engine Bay:
View attachment 8280
So my first thought was to make up a proper hard-pipe like they did as OE with many cars, so I got myself a bit of copper pipe and bent it as a guide to the pipe run I wanted:
View attachment 8282
I went to my local independent Hydraulic merchant, and explained what I wanted and was told he could not recreate the type of fitting PAS systems use so I was back to plan B. I got on eBay and bought a handful of fittings off Torques UK. My first plan was to use the Torques UK Fittings to do the whole feed and return, but I then realised that the fittings on the PAS rack are just too close together to allow the fittings to be done up
View attachment 8283
Whilst I was scratching my head about that, I decided to make a new Steering Knuckle rubber boot out of a Clio 182 Unit, and an original 5GTT Unit. A quick slice with a knife, and some hardcore silicone glue, it fitted like a treat, and should hopefully stop the gases coming into the car like they were before:
View attachment 8284
I also managed to have a little bend of the OE pipes, and realised I would be able to use the OE Rear engine mount:
View attachment 8285
I then made a start on fitting the OE PAS wiring loom to the 5, and tried to make it as neat as I could:
View attachment 8286So back to the drawing board with regard to the Hydraulic lines, I resorted to using part of the fitting and got a new piece of Hydraulic hose with a couple of new fittings crimped onto ends, and in the end, it's worked like a treat!!
View attachment 8287
View attachment 8288
View attachment 8289
So it's now all assembled, the plan at the weekend is to fill it up and then check for for leaks..
Before I finished tonight, I decided to fit some new disks to the front hub carriers I bought:
View attachment 8290
Thanks for Reading!
Yep, it's the exact same set up as Bob is running on his Hill Climb car. Time will tell if it works well...?
Oooh Shiny.
Yes mate, just took a box full of grubby parts round and they charged me £66 all in
Managed to get a whole weekend working on the car and really broke the back of getting it ready for Blyton (and other events).
First job was to create and fit the heat-shield for the alternator:
Then I had to fit an "Uprated" starter motor I had as all the OE style ones need a rebuild, so fitted one to keep the ball rolling.. (Yes I know they're not as good as the OE ones, and are also susceptible to heat, but it'll get me moving..) I'll probably fit some more heat-shielding around it to be sure..
Then when the Engine & Gearbox were all assembled together, it was thrown in..
Really pleased with how much neater the wiring loom is with the alternator round the back..
I also fitted the 2118 wheels onto the N/S of the car, and noticed that the rear axle is definitely about 20mm closer to the arch on the O/S of the car that the N/S?? Any ideas why that would be chaps? @Mart @andybond @Adey
First job was to create and fit the heat-shield for the alternator:
Then I had to fit an "Uprated" starter motor I had as all the OE style ones need a rebuild, so fitted one to keep the ball rolling.. (Yes I know they're not as good as the OE ones, and are also susceptible to heat, but it'll get me moving..) I'll probably fit some more heat-shielding around it to be sure..
Then when the Engine & Gearbox were all assembled together, it was thrown in..
Really pleased with how much neater the wiring loom is with the alternator round the back..
I also fitted the 2118 wheels onto the N/S of the car, and noticed that the rear axle is definitely about 20mm closer to the arch on the O/S of the car that the N/S?? Any ideas why that would be chaps? @Mart @andybond @Adey
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Steve be careful with the fancy nimbus stuff, not sure if it is braced or not......if not it will fatigue and break / rattle and poss stop its job. Vx220 suffer with them
If you can spare the cash zirotec ceramic coat the manifold. It works really well and made a massive difference to exposed heat from the downpipe on the vx220 tfsi conversion near inner driveshaft / gear cables
One side lower, check damper 1st and general check of key items
Looking good Steve
DG
If you can spare the cash zirotec ceramic coat the manifold. It works really well and made a massive difference to exposed heat from the downpipe on the vx220 tfsi conversion near inner driveshaft / gear cables
One side lower, check damper 1st and general check of key items
Looking good Steve
DG
Yes this is it @Adey, when I run my finger along the side of the rear wheels, there deffo seems to be more room on the N/S of the car than the O/S..
Please to read this @Duncan Grier, I've looked into that Zircotec stuff before but thought it was a bit of a snake oil thing and didn't really work that well? Was thinking of doing it for the 11 just for the asthetics.. but perhaps it would help ST cup's temps..?
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
I was the same my friend!
100% better than wrap and the tfsi conversion that saved a few £ opting to not go with it melted gear levers and killed inner driveshaft (with heatsheild also) ceramic coated after and no problem, also had good quality wrap
With temp gun after a few power runs was a lot cooler in the engine bay along with exhaust etc
Would be tempted to do the inlet also on the 5 oem lump
Sure my trade account is only 10% again due to low ordering if it helps?
DG
100% better than wrap and the tfsi conversion that saved a few £ opting to not go with it melted gear levers and killed inner driveshaft (with heatsheild also) ceramic coated after and no problem, also had good quality wrap
With temp gun after a few power runs was a lot cooler in the engine bay along with exhaust etc
Would be tempted to do the inlet also on the 5 oem lump
Sure my trade account is only 10% again due to low ordering if it helps?
DG
Above you've said the 2118s are only fitted on one side? Or is this with them wheels on both the rear hubs
Yes mate, I've fitted them to both sides now..
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
I also ceramic coat the intake pipe work and looks nice but again seems to do what you want
DG
DG
Just nipped out and took a couple of pictures for comparison. I held the camera against the side of the wheel to try & get the same view.
NEAR/PASSENGER SIDE
OFF/DRIVER SIDE:
NEAR/PASSENGER SIDE
OFF/DRIVER SIDE:
Hmmm I may have answered my own question... looks like the O/S arch is a lot more crumpled than the N/S, probably the car had a coming together with another one on the race track, but you can't see it with the bodykit on..
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