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Adey's 986 Porsche Boxster

In my head the car is definitely going better since the filter and maf sensor clean. I do need to get back on the dyno to confirm this though.
This weekend i plan to get some adjustable rear toe arms fitted up to sort out my out of spec toe in which should hopefully make the rear feel a lot les skitty. I've also ordered a 987 style spoiler straight out of China, I've paid a little more for a carbon fibre one, we will see what its like when it gets here. Hopefully it'll freshen up the rear a touch as its a slight duck billed and should delete the rear slab when extended but hopefully not enough to take away from it being and older Porsche.


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Rear toe arms fitted up with my little helper. Easy job as everything was free, probably took longer to jack it up and take the wheels off than it did to fit the parts. Locked the eccentric bolts the same either side and then used the centre bar to eyeball it straight for now. Even with it still misaligned and just taking the toe in that it had out, it has made the rear a lot more stable already. As it was the rear was very nervous unless leaning on it and it would dart around a bit. Defiantly looking forward to getting it properly aligned and to have some confidence in it when pushing on again. Quick wipe down and a wax with poor boys as it hasn't had a decent wash for a while and its looking good from a few feet back (y)

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Not much to update. I've made a DIY gt3 centre console delete, I may have another go to make it a little neater. Started with a cardboard template and then had some fun with fiberglass, covered in some carpet and popped in place. It adds some very welcome leg space but sacrifices some storage. Just waiting on a panel that's on back order from Porsche to finish it off. Then out for a little meet this morning with some mates at the Boho Bakery near Stroud.

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Maybe. I went with Carbon to tie in with the roof colour, I'll see how it looks in a few days and worse case it gets painted when I get others bits done 👍🏼
 
Took delivery of a replacement door to get rid of the big key mark down the side. The breaker that sent it did an excellent job in packaging it up for transport. Colour match is great to be fair, needs a machine polish but its in loads better condition than my previous door. Swapping it out was an easy job to do, everything is so well thought out and designed and none of it is corroded or seized (y) Probably took me about 2 hours in total going through it slowly and making sure I caused no damage. Good enough for me plus I don't have to worry too much about the car, vs dropping 2k on it to get all the body work sorted and afterwards id be scared to use it or park it anywhere after getting it done. There are some other bits I will get touched up soon but waiting for some rarer bits to pop up first.

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A few weeks ago I was looking at ways to improve the tightness and feel of the Boxster. I started looking into front and rear braces to tie everything together a little more. Many hours were spent having a read around on some hard to navigate forums and old posts where the pictures are no longer linked correctly.

First up was the front brace. Now Porsche are pretty handy and offer lots of upgrades, GT version and GT3/RS versions are based on the same basic architecture (the front of mine is a 996 911) this means certain parts can be purchased to fit and some cars come with the fitting brackets and/or the full upgraded parts. So after finding a list of bits and locations for the OEM front braces I had a quick peak under the "frunk" on mine, hopeful that the mounting brackets for a front brace had been added to my chassis in the factory. Lucky me, not only did it have the chassis brackets it also had the braces! (as a side note some of the early base versions even came with the GT3 interior and centre console delete)

After that it was onto the rear, The aluminium rear subframe is pretty much in 2 halves. A common upgrade is to fit a rear lower brace that ties both halves together. Now these are pricey as most aftermarket parts are. There are a few on the market but the cheapest I found was about £250 for essentially a bit of aluminium bar. I found an old thread about a diy/cheaper part made by a forum member called the Bally Bar (user name is Bally or something) I fired him a message and sure enough he was willing to make one up for me. Its a solid hexagonal bar with a couple or recesses for fixings roughly 15mm thick. It was dropped off this morning and fitted in about 20min this afternoon. Fitment was tight against my decat pipes but really simple and easy to fit. Literally 2 bolts and nuts, replacing 2 that you knock out for fitting. The idea is that the rear flexes less when cornering and doesn't pull away from each other with this fitted. Ill be back in the car tomorrow so will take it down my usually route and see if there is any noticeable difference.

I think there is also the option of fitting the 911 gt3 anti roll bars though I don't think I'm anywhere near needing them yet. Doesn't mean I wont be looking for them in the background. Genuine GT3 parts usually do have a big premium attached to them but as you've read previously, with the brake ducts, sometimes brand new parts can be had super cheap.

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@Adey. Going back to your rear Tie/toe rods, what is the static setting for the rear?? Usual consensus is to generate a little bit of toe in on compression, so you get a tiny bit of passive rear steer where the rear axle mimics the front axle, but to a much lesser extent. A little toe in to settle a little toe out to kill yourself (or at least get that feeling)
Just nosey to see what or where Porsche Start...
 
@Adey. Going back to your rear Tie/toe rods, what is the static setting for the rear?? Usual consensus is to generate a little bit of toe in on compression, so you get a tiny bit of passive rear steer where the rear axle mimics the front axle, but to a much lesser extent. A little toe in to settle a little toe out to kill yourself (or at least get that feeling)
Just nosey to see what or where Porsche Start...
This is a copy of the stock settings. I've not read up too much on how the car behaves when going through the motions though.

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Nothin earth shattering there then.
Front Tracking parallel, camber just a whisker negative. I think the toe diference thing is to do with how the ackerman is designed in and as a castor check on the turnplates. It's got mega castor coz it ain't got an engine in the front, which in turn throws on mega neggy on lock, this is why the start point is pretty straight up.
Rear Tracking parallel, Bit more Neggy.
I would set the rear axle parallel and see how the initial turn in feels, if it's a bit jaggy try a 1mm each wheel toe in, same rules apply to the front. If you have stiffened it you could probably try an extra half deg neggy front and rear to take the edge of the initial turn, and give more mid corner grip. Esp if it feels a bit pointy. It'll be heavy, so not probably feeling pointy...........
I don't know about you, but I always look to get the high speed handling feeling as sweet as I can and live with the possible trade off at low speed as it is easier to be a bit flamboyant at low speed ......
 
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