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5 GT Turbo 5 GT Turbo tuning advice

Ash4ord

Member
Hello everyone

I am looking to purchase a phase 2, 5 GT turbo, As far as i am aware the engine is stock other than, S/S Carb Lobster,uprated Alloy Intercooler and air filter with a manual boost controller. I don't want crazy power i just want something relatively quick and reliable.

I was looking at cgbmotorsport's website just out of interest at their turbos where they state the following.

Turbo Technics Stage 2 T2/T25 Turbo


" We find many people purchase the biggest they can afford, rather than buying a turbo which suits there driving style."

63 exhaust housing for upto 200 BHP - full boost at 3500rpm - good 30-100+ mph
.47 exhaust housing for upto 185 BHP - full boost at 3000rpm - good 20-80 mph
.35 exhaust housing for upto 170 BHP - full boost at 2500rpm - good 0-60 mp
h

The above breakdown i found very insightful, 70+ Mph is of no interest to me what so ever as my younger days's of speeding are long gone. Im also not one to race off the lights or from a stand still i would say just a nice feeling of boost and pushed back into your seat action from 20-60 would keep me happy.

What would recommend a good spec to achieve this while keeping the car as reliable as possible?

Kind Regards

Ash.
 
If anybody local has any that would be great, found some examples of what to listen for on youtube,if nobody local has any any recommendations for easy to set up and route into the car det can's?
 
You have a boost gauge ? Could follow those lines to get it into the car. Also there is a boost hose clip on the rocker cover IIRC that you can wedge it under. Is that the best spot ? I wonder if you could reuse the knock sensor location and just disconnect it whilst listening ?
 
Yeah i have a boost gauge coming in near the passenger foot well, do these det can's need setting up or are they plug and play straight forward to use? I've no experience with them what so ever.
 
If it helps as a benchmark my current carb is this;
1.2main
0.85mm ac
1mm 1st stage
1.3mm 2nd stage
1.7mm needle valve
Also run an adjustable FPR running approx 5.5psi.
I am running approximately 20psi but i do have a large front mount to help with charge temps. I've not been checking for det (naughty boy) but I do have a steth and the relevant kit to do so.
As Andy said, each car and set up is different but in terms of fuelling the above should be there or there abouts.
 
If it helps as a benchmark my current carb is this;
1.2main
0.85mm ac
1mm 1st stage
1.3mm 2nd stage
1.7mm needle valve
Also run an adjustable FPR running approx 5.5psi.
I am running approximately 20psi but i do have a large front mount to help with charge temps. I've not been checking for det (naughty boy) but I do have a steth and the relevant kit to do so.
As Andy said, each car and set up is different but in terms of fuelling the above should be there or there abouts.

I think i will start off with 18psi, Would a 1.2 second stage and .9 ac be a good starting point?
 
What do people think of this?

Phormula KS-3 knock (detonation) detection kit

http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=269


Better than det can's? Tuning the 5 is beginning to look more costly and less straight forward than i thought, First time ive found my self loosing some enthusiasm for it, last thing i want to do is spunk money on all these mods and still not be happy with the power.

The best person to help who has helped me lots is @Brigsy. I think Jon uses a steth for his mental van making over 230hp, hopefully he will advise shortly. I'm not sure you need to spend that sort of money.
 
I dont have any det cans no, but different things suit different engines. My knock sensor is wired up to the Adaptronic.

Try a stethoscope, it's what I started with, and theyre cheap :)
 
Thank's for trying to find somebody local with a set of det can but no worries if there isn't anybody around :)

I have done a lot of reading these past few days about det can's and now have a much better understanding on them so weather i find somebody who has some or i have to buy or make my own will we see once the car is up and running at desired spec. I have noticed many people have not used them under 20 psi either however i would like to listen for det for my own peace of mind!.

On another note, I've gone and bought clarkys T25, and i will be fitting a front mount intercooler and adjustable FPR.

Next thing is to jet the carb, Not i'm unsure about this, drilling the 2nd stage looks easy tbh brigsy said its easy too however i've been told any swarf from drilling that gets into the carb will render it scrap! How can i guarantee no swarf will enter the carb its not like you can see into that tiny jet to check!.

I will be running 18psi for now, I am in two minds weather to just do it the old school way and whack a 140 main and .9 ac in? I know this will be rich off boost but how rich are we talking? This car will spend most of the time tucked up in the garage, so a bit less mpg is not really an issue plus it will be nice to be able to revert the carb back to standard if i choose to in the future, But like i say how much difference im MPG off boost are we talking? just a very rough approximate %?
 
I really wouldnt consider changing the main. Its not for MPG reasons the richness , its due to power ( or lack of ) and bogging.

The richer the car , the less the power , the leaner the more power ( to a point ! )

Do it once, do it right mate.
 
I put the carb in a vice, on its side. Drilled with the bits till the bush was wide as needed then kept it spinning and fetched it out as slow as cleanly as I could.

I then hoovered it

Then 14 cans of carb cleaner later ...
 
I would just use a stethoscope to listen for knock - cheap and works.

When drilling the 2nd stage use a hand drill - i just put the drill in a small chuck and twist by hand its only brass. Small bit of grease on the drill bit and drill at an angle and a quick blast with carb cleaner when done. A little swarf may get in but its not the end of the world - whoever said the carb is scrap if swarf gets in is talking shite.

My advice is do not go too big on 2nd stage as its a fixed jet. 1.4mm is the max really.

As for mpg step away from the tuning lol they are not bad off boost but if you are changing the air corrector it will not be fantastic on fuel unless you drive it slowly everywhere.
 
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