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5 GT Turbo 5 GT Turbo tuning advice

Ash4ord

Member
Hello everyone

I am looking to purchase a phase 2, 5 GT turbo, As far as i am aware the engine is stock other than, S/S Carb Lobster,uprated Alloy Intercooler and air filter with a manual boost controller. I don't want crazy power i just want something relatively quick and reliable.

I was looking at cgbmotorsport's website just out of interest at their turbos where they state the following.

Turbo Technics Stage 2 T2/T25 Turbo


" We find many people purchase the biggest they can afford, rather than buying a turbo which suits there driving style."

63 exhaust housing for upto 200 BHP - full boost at 3500rpm - good 30-100+ mph
.47 exhaust housing for upto 185 BHP - full boost at 3000rpm - good 20-80 mph
.35 exhaust housing for upto 170 BHP - full boost at 2500rpm - good 0-60 mp
h

The above breakdown i found very insightful, 70+ Mph is of no interest to me what so ever as my younger days's of speeding are long gone. Im also not one to race off the lights or from a stand still i would say just a nice feeling of boost and pushed back into your seat action from 20-60 would keep me happy.

What would recommend a good spec to achieve this while keeping the car as reliable as possible?

Kind Regards

Ash.
 
Oil filter arrived today but no oil :D

Car has been running spot on though, Idles perfectly zero smoke from the exhaust or under load. no oil leaks, its not using any water etc and i just hope it stays this way lol.

One thing i was going to ask is what is the optimal position the temp gauge should sit at? My fan has been wired to a switch, With the fan on my car sits at pretty much bang on the 2nd line or just a little higher in regular driving with the occasional boosting.

Also not the best way to determine oil quality but what do you think about the state of this oil on my dip stick? Does it look ok or is is in desperate need of changing? My oil is in the post anyway so will be changed asap.

i66.tinypic.com_n12kg3.webp
 
Good news that it's all running well. That's always a relief with a new car.

Temperature sounds about right. I also have my fan on switch which I don't particularly like, I'll change it eventually.

Oil doesn't look too bad from that pic but hard to really tell. Go ahead and change it for peace of mind anyway.
 
I would just bin the fan override switch if the fan kicks in on its own ok. You never need a manual fan switch. As @andybond said the rad fan kicks in just over the 2/3 mark on a standard temp switch which is totally fine to be honest. As for running temps normal driving is anywhere between the 2-3rd mark on the gauge. When your using it hard i.e trackdays you can run the water temp gauge right up to 11-12oclock no worries providing everything else is in check.
 
Im not sure if the fan still kicks in automatically as i've not let it get that hot yet, But i will try it out later.

I had a present in the post this morning AEM Wide band :D, Just reading the instructions and it appears to be plug and play, just the live and earth wire and plug in the sensor, If im reading the instructions correct it states its already calibrated to read AFR. Can anybody confirm this is right before i have a go installing it?
 
I wired off cigarettes lighter also as apparently it's best to use something that powers on 2nd click of the key so it doesn't receive a blip in power while calibrating. Might be rubbish but cigarette lighter ticks that box for peace of mind.
 
Ok so today did not go as planned, The the bolt screwed into the bung that's already in my down pipe for the wideband is real stiff, Didn't want to try too much force in case i snapped the bung off completely, , Would it be easier to remove with the engine hot? i attempted it cool as i was also changing my spark plugs and it dawned on my afterwards heat may make the bolt unscrew easier. Is there any non flammable `wd40 type stuff to spray on rusted bolts?

I also discovered i don't have the correct bit to undo the sump plug, I can't believe there was nothing in my socket set that didn't fit. Can anybody tell me what i actually need for that square hole.

When changing the spark plugs 3 came out relativity smoothly but one was rather tight, even while unscrewing it it was really stiff, is this anything to worry about? the new one went in pretty smooth though.

On the plus side, i wired the illumination for my boost gauge and the wiring is ready for the AFR if i can get the bolt out the manifold, i also tested out if i could reach the oil filter as brigsy suggested turn the wheel all the way left and i was able to reach it with my hand comfortably so it should be pretty straight forward one its loosed off from the top.

I just hope the bolt in the manifold comes off ok tomorrow.
 
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You need one of these but can probably get it from somewhere locally. http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281206597321
.

Top man! Just checked halfords and they have one so ill pick one up tomorrow.

I would like to avoid forking out for a new down pipe right now the misses will kill me lol, Di you think it would be ok to spray wd40 on that bolt? i don't want my car up in flames. :o

Halfords have one specifically for penetrating rust, i assume its better than regular wd40?

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/en...wd-40-specialist-fast-release-penetrant-250ml

I noticed that the actual bung doesn't appear to be rusty im wondering if its alloy? how would heat effect an alloy thread with steel bolt? assuming that's what it is i could be wrong ( probably am :D )
 
I would just take the bolt out of the downpipe when hot, it will be tight get a powerbar on it. If it shears just get the bung ground out and weld a new one in its place.

The tight spark plug has probably been cross threaded at some point is it the water pump end of the cylinder head? If the new plug has gone in OK i wouldnt worry about it too much
 
I don't think its been welded up, i will try again when hot if its not easy ill try penetrating fluid, if its not easy again ill have to brute force it, I can't weld if it sheers off will a garage that can weld be able to weld a new bung without taking the DP off? i have a new bung came that with the wide band.
 
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