5 GT Turbo 5 GT Turbo tuning advice

[Ash4ord]

Hello everyone

I am looking to purchase a phase 2, 5 GT turbo, As far as i am aware the engine is stock other than, S/S Carb Lobster,uprated Alloy Intercooler and air filter with a manual boost controller. I don't want crazy power i just want something relatively quick and reliable.

I was looking at cgbmotorsport's website just out of interest at their turbos where they state the following.

Turbo Technics Stage 2 T2/T25 Turbo


" We find many people purchase the biggest they can afford, rather than buying a turbo which suits there driving style."

63 exhaust housing for upto 200 BHP - full boost at 3500rpm - good 30-100+ mph
.47 exhaust housing for upto 185 BHP - full boost at 3000rpm - good 20-80 mph
.35 exhaust housing for upto 170 BHP - full boost at 2500rpm - good 0-60 mph

The above breakdown i found very insightful, 70+ Mph is of no interest to me what so ever as my younger days's of speeding are long gone. Im also not one to race off the lights or from a stand still i would say just a nice feeling of boost and pushed back into your seat action from 20-60 would keep me happy.

What would recommend a good spec to achieve this while keeping the car as reliable as possible?

Kind Regards

Ash.

 

[Brigsy]

Sounds like the boost has been increased by a couple of lbs. Next step afr gauge

 

[Ash4ord]

Right Just this second ordered the AEM Wideband UEGO 6-in-1 gauge from Efi parts, Is this boost safe or should i avoid using the car until the AFR is fitted? Strange thing is the sensor boss appears to already be in the exhaust manifold, i can only assume somebody has installed one before.

I also fitted my door stay's today and the doors squeak quite loud when you open them, never made the sound when the stay's where not installed, Reminds me the doors of an old fiesta xr2 i used to have, Is there a remedy for this? i tried WD40 didn't work im thinking some kind of grease maybe?

 

[Mark Davis]

I have AEM gauges, good bits of kit. Will be fine to run at that boost I'm sure. Not sure about door stays, my drivers side pins need doing also.

 

[Ash4ord]

That's good to hear, My car currently has some sort silver metal plate/face thing covering the original dial's on the dash, i don't like it and want to remove it and keep it all looking original, I am hoping its not stuck on, I couldn't see any screws to open up that part of the dash to get to the dial's can anybody aware me how to take it apart?

 

[Mark Davis]

That's good to hear, My car currently has some sort silver metal plate/face thing covering the original dial's on the dash, i don't like it and want to remove it and keep it all looking original, I am hoping its not stuck on, I couldn't see any screws to open up that part of the dash to get to the dial's can anybody aware me how to take it apart?

Post a pic up mate.

 

[markg]

That's good to hear, My car currently has some sort silver metal plate/face thing covering the original dial's on the dash, i don't like it and want to remove it and keep it all looking original, I am hoping its not stuck on, I couldn't see any screws to open up that part of the dash to get to the dial's can anybody aware me how to take it apart?

Easy enough to get the whole dial assembly out and then the front part unclips from the dials and circuit board. However it then gets a bit more delicate as the clear plastic part is stuck onto the back piece where your metal face plate is. You have to carefully go round and work the clear plastic part off without cracking anything. Seeing as yours has already been off once for the metal cover to be fitted it may be easier or harder depending how they fixed it back on. If you do crack the clear part I may have a good one somewhere that I removed years ago but do be very careful and take your time.

 

[Ash4ord]

Easy enough to get the whole dial assembly out and then the front part unclips from the dials and circuit board. However it then gets a bit more delicate as the clear plastic part is stuck onto the back piece where your metal face plate is. You have to carefully go round and work the clear plastic part off without cracking anything. Seeing as yours has already been off once for the metal cover to be fitted it may be easier or harder depending how they fixed it back on. If you do crack the clear part I may have a good one somewhere that I removed years ago but do be very careful and take your time.

Thank's mate, how do i actually get the dial assembly out is there some screw's hidden somewhere?

Here's a couple of pics of the car and the dash im talking about.

 

[Mark Davis]

You can gently push the dash cover up and off, once you have done that two screws top right & top left will be revealed. You can then undo those and lift the dials out being careful to disconnect the wiring plugs.

 

[andybond]

Tidy car mister !

 

[Ash4ord]

You can gently push the dash cover up and off, once you have done that two screws top right & top left will be revealed. You can then undo those and lift the dials out being careful to disconnect the wiring plugs.

Thank's Ill give it ago and try and be careful not to brake anything

Tidy car mister !

Thank's mate, been wanting to pull the trigger on a R5 for a number of years and so glad that i finally did it! was half expecting to maybe be a little underwhelmed finally getting one and realizing it was a bit meh after all but its been the complete opposite, these things are fantastic fun I have an f30 3 series as my daily only a 320d and getting back into that after the 5 the f30 felt meh, easy to drive, nice and comfy etc but wow so dull, id honestly drive the 5 daily if i could and it would be reliable and hand the f30 back to the lease company lol

 

[Mark Davis]

This is a good investment - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/renault-5...211501?hash=item5b1ab6ccad:g:4MEAAOSwstxVTe~d

 

[Ash4ord]

This is a good investment - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/renault-5...211501?hash=item5b1ab6ccad:g:4MEAAOSwstxVTe~d

Im sure that wasn't there the other day when i looked for one! anyway its now sold to me thanks for the heads up

 

[the5wede]

Nice 5 there. Just be careful when you're taking the dash cover off - it can break easily.

 

[Ash4ord]

Something has just occurred to me, do you have to remove the alternator to get to the oil filter?

 

[Mark Davis]

It's a bit if a tight squeeze but it can be done, it's a bit more fiddly on mine as I have front mount inter cooler pipe in the way also. Last time I changed filter I got a long screwdriver and hammered through it and was then able to unscrew with gentle force using the screwdriver.

 

[Brigsy]

Turn the steering full lock to the left and get your hand in through the inner arch once the ool filter is loose. Filter pliers are the best you will need to loosen it off from the top, you can squeeze the pliers in from the passenger side.

 

[Ash4ord]

Sounds tricky, Just waiting for the oil i ordered to arrive now so i can give it a go hopefully its not as tricky as it sounds.

Ive ordered some NGK B8EG's plugs from gt turbo spares, do these come pre gapped? If not what gap do you guy's recommend?

Also where is the best place to jack them up with a trolley jack? Ive not had a chance to look underneath yet.

 

[Mark Davis]

The filter isn't too much of a pain once you've done it once or twice. Not sure if they plugs come pre gapped, I seem to remember the gap should be 0.7, @Brigsy will know for sure.

I jack my car up on the chassis rails not the jacking points.

 

[Brigsy]

0.7mm gap for stock. You will need to gap them from new.

Use the inner chassis rails not the sills to jack up. Do not use the so called triangular jacking point as it is weak as piss.

 

[andybond]

weak as piss.

Technical version level : Briggs.

:ag: