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21 Turbo 1991 Renault 21 Turbo 2wd
- Thread starter DaveL485
- Start date
DaveL485
Staff member
So I dug into it and it does have SOME oil pressure but not enough to let it ride. When up to temp its tripping below the min pressure warning level. It also smokes like its on 60 Embassy a day!
I spent a day fixing the oil pressure switch, sender, and wiring...someone has been here before and made a right old patchwork of it, but I traced the right wiring and corrected it, fitted new sensors and now we have working oil level/pressure on the dash
Before I got into it sending 12v to the oil switch was turning the windscreen wipers on! 
Urgh, not good. Whoever chopped this lot in needs a good beating.
This is where I isolated the oil switch wiring and ran a patch wire over to the output from the instrument panel.
So.... next time the engine comes out.
I spent a day fixing the oil pressure switch, sender, and wiring...someone has been here before and made a right old patchwork of it, but I traced the right wiring and corrected it, fitted new sensors and now we have working oil level/pressure on the dash
Before I got into it sending 12v to the oil switch was turning the windscreen wipers on! Urgh, not good. Whoever chopped this lot in needs a good beating.
This is where I isolated the oil switch wiring and ran a patch wire over to the output from the instrument panel.
So.... next time the engine comes out.
DaveL485
Staff member
If you mean <over half a days work to solder in one wire in the right place> then yes, "Fun".
DaveL485
Staff member
New engine, popped the inlet studs out to properly clean the mating surface up
This is a Phase 1 engine, going in a phase 3. While most differences dont matter that much and it all fits together, the one that does is the fact this engine has a distributor cap & associated drive, whereas the car is a wasted spark model with coil packs. I removed the dizzy drive system and put a core plug in the hole.
Ten it was just general engine prep to go in, making sure the locating dowels are right, ancilliaries, blah blah. The flywheel also needs to be wasted spark, being a 60-2 with one reset point against the phase 1 two reset point type. While I was there I fitted a new spigot bearing (tried the bread trick to remove the old one, it works, I was staggered!), also a new clutch friction plate and release bearing. These, surprisingly, are plentiful in supply - its covers (and full kits) that you cant get.
The bread trick... (youtube it)
And in she goes!
Then its just a case of reassembling the jigsaw puzzle.
And back together
Fired up first time, no problems - once it was run up and the coolant bled I packed away for the day. I had a couple of bits left to refit so 30min the next day and I toddled off to the fuel station to top it up a bit. It drove nice, no smoke, no issues that I could see. 2 miles down, longer drive next time!
This is a Phase 1 engine, going in a phase 3. While most differences dont matter that much and it all fits together, the one that does is the fact this engine has a distributor cap & associated drive, whereas the car is a wasted spark model with coil packs. I removed the dizzy drive system and put a core plug in the hole.
Ten it was just general engine prep to go in, making sure the locating dowels are right, ancilliaries, blah blah. The flywheel also needs to be wasted spark, being a 60-2 with one reset point against the phase 1 two reset point type. While I was there I fitted a new spigot bearing (tried the bread trick to remove the old one, it works, I was staggered!), also a new clutch friction plate and release bearing. These, surprisingly, are plentiful in supply - its covers (and full kits) that you cant get.
The bread trick... (youtube it)
And in she goes!
Then its just a case of reassembling the jigsaw puzzle.
And back together
Fired up first time, no problems - once it was run up and the coolant bled I packed away for the day. I had a couple of bits left to refit so 30min the next day and I toddled off to the fuel station to top it up a bit. It drove nice, no smoke, no issues that I could see. 2 miles down, longer drive next time!
gordini stu
Well-Known Member
Top stuff
Had to comment on the hovis hammer bit of grease with the bread tasted even better
Had to comment on the hovis hammer bit of grease with the bread tasted even better
gordini stu
Well-Known Member
Was up your way Saturday out skirts of Cov near Bedworth , mates Paint shop , pricing up to make it Pretty .
DaveL485
Staff member
Well lets see where were we. Ah yes, test driving.
It didnt go well. Started an intermittant miss, and as I was diagnosing (Cylinder 1, as it turned out) it started leaking. Ominous.
Then it went kaboom. Fully dropped a cylinder, clouds of white smoke out the back, coolant all over the shop.
NOT IDEAL. But hey ho, whaddya do... just crack on and fix it. As you can see in the image below the HG was absolutely hanging, three breach points in the fire rings and generally falling apart. I think when it was refitted it wasn;t retorqued after run-up, as the bolts didnt feel the right tightness when I undid them. When I examined the head after the skim, I found most of the small coolant channels were blocked with salt, the block had an inch of silt in it at the back too.
I had it apart pretty fast.
Dropped the head off for a skim, when that was done I cleaned all the deposits off the valves and other general cleaning related stuff, mating surfaces for manifolds and that.
After several attempts to extract the broken exhaust studs (2 of), I gave up and drilled them, and retapped. Fitted 9 shiny new studs.
Not budging!
Drilling & keeping it straight and level.
It didnt go well. Started an intermittant miss, and as I was diagnosing (Cylinder 1, as it turned out) it started leaking. Ominous.
Then it went kaboom. Fully dropped a cylinder, clouds of white smoke out the back, coolant all over the shop.
NOT IDEAL. But hey ho, whaddya do... just crack on and fix it. As you can see in the image below the HG was absolutely hanging, three breach points in the fire rings and generally falling apart. I think when it was refitted it wasn;t retorqued after run-up, as the bolts didnt feel the right tightness when I undid them. When I examined the head after the skim, I found most of the small coolant channels were blocked with salt, the block had an inch of silt in it at the back too.
I had it apart pretty fast.
Dropped the head off for a skim, when that was done I cleaned all the deposits off the valves and other general cleaning related stuff, mating surfaces for manifolds and that.
After several attempts to extract the broken exhaust studs (2 of), I gave up and drilled them, and retapped. Fitted 9 shiny new studs.
Not budging!
Drilling & keeping it straight and level.
DaveL485
Staff member
Better.
Has a few days off the cars, with a work trip to Poland in there too which was nice. Back on it on Saturday though. Note I also studded the coolant housing as the threads didnt look great further up the hole.
Bolted up, the M8 [10mm hex] metal lockers are excellent for the exhaust manifold.
New cambelt and tensioner went on too and it fired up first time of asking.
Then I rebuilt the rest, and ran it up to temp. I think I was done & packed away before 7pm, not bad considering it was gone 1pm when I started.
The following day I retorqued the head bolts to spec, set the valve clearences and changed the oil & filter - put some proper oil in it, 5w50 VR1.
Has a few days off the cars, with a work trip to Poland in there too which was nice. Back on it on Saturday though. Note I also studded the coolant housing as the threads didnt look great further up the hole.
Bolted up, the M8 [10mm hex] metal lockers are excellent for the exhaust manifold.
New cambelt and tensioner went on too and it fired up first time of asking.
Then I rebuilt the rest, and ran it up to temp. I think I was done & packed away before 7pm, not bad considering it was gone 1pm when I started.
The following day I retorqued the head bolts to spec, set the valve clearences and changed the oil & filter - put some proper oil in it, 5w50 VR1.
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