Undertray screws part number

[k1ano]

I would also be dissappointed - undoubtedly but that is also a reaction to how anal we are about our cars in many ways, the Vee especially ... They may be at fault, I said not always Renaults fault, if you can justify that they are culpable having done the work recently then you may be able to negotiate ...

Interesting though as I have to admit that whenever I took my car for servicing I always checked the engine cover bolts and under the engine covers etc. etc. in the car-park before I left ... On one occassion Renault had left some of that blue paper towel on the exhaust ! But I just went into the service area and asked the service manager what he thought of his teams standards ...

IMHO the more anal we are, the more responsibility we have to take for maintaining the perfection but the more dissappointed we are if others don't come up to our standards ... I was the same with my Vee ...

If it was me personally I would drill and tap the holes myself as I wouldn't trust a dealer to do it - even if I could negotiate them to do it ... I would do this even if I snapped one myself as I also don't like cable ties where they shouldn't be ...

Martin

hurrah martin, you have shown the light: "I would drill and tap the holes myself as I wouldn't trust a dealer to do it"
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH YOU. but in your earlier post you said you would not expect the garage to use grease, why is this?
the statement of anal (can i say that?) ownership is very cutting but true, but what point is the crossover? do you grease the bolts yourself, or do you remove the undertray ready for the garage to service the car? at what point do you spin the filter off and change the oil? as this is ALL that reno do! oh! and stamp the book for the anally perfect. the intermediate service is a joke and at the price they charge i am not laughing. then the cambelt stinger that really makes you smirk comes in at 2k, ouch, but they cannot find ten pence worth of grease for the bolts! then dont tell you they have snapped them off anyway.
Martin, this is not a jib at you but you seemed to sum up my thoughts perfectly, oh, and i doubt the reno garage have the skills to remove a broken bolt anyway as all the older decent mechanics have left the building, only the young spotty ones left.

I wouldn't expect them to use grease Spike, most don't but some do - this is my experience over the years ... Motech for example are very good and, if they made a mistake, I am sure they would be open about it, they also go above and beyond the call of duty and would also imagine they would have put Matts car right had they broken bolts or at least been open - they appreciate how we feel about cars but I think your average dealer sees a car as a form of transport and assume the owners do aswell ... Some things are about expectations and preventative maintenance too - but that is not everyones bag ... I, as an owner, am in a position to think about preventative maintenance and employ those ideals, I wouldn't always expect others too ... We get obsessed by a dealer stamp as owners and buyers but that is no guarantee of quality of service - there is an irony there I think !

Rust proofing is a classic example, many owners of new cars don't even consider the long-term impacts of corrosion or the underside of the car - I always do ... A garage won't tend to waxoyl your car when they do some work underneath or put a spot of grease on an exposed thread etc. again some may do but rare I would imagine ...

I do worry about oil and filter changes actually as getting crap or dirt in the oil filter or on the exposed oil galleries as you manouver it into position is something I think about certainly.

I took a car for some body-work once and yes, I removed all trim, panels, etc. This was partly because I hate ovespray and masking lines and wanted to reduce the amount of work that the bodyshop had to do to hopefully get a better job and value for money.

As far as being anal is concerned, I was like the next man, always worried about where I parked, who I trusted with work etc. I do as much maintenance both preventative and servicing as possible. At the end of the day though you have to build up a trust and relationship with service providers and then, if there are any issues, you can resolve them.

Matt, from memory I think the captive nuts 'may' be on clips inside the subframe or pressed in - I can't quite remember. This may mean they can be removed and replace as an alternative to drilling them.

Martin

 

[Jamesv6]

If I order the parts would I be able to fit them myself? The bolts currently don't screw in to anything so I'm not sure how I'd get the bolts and nuts to lock?

I gather from the description they are captive nuts, which I think means they are somehow fixed into the chassis/frame either welded or riveted.

 

[Matt]

to be fair to renault - mechanic called and asked what he could do to put right. He said I can either bring it in again or they will buy the parts for me and post them out so I can do it myself. I've ordered them and will try to fix. TBH no matter where you take cars there is always the risk of something happening. As I recall Motech had problems with Looches cambelt but they did rectify.

 

[Spike]

If I order the parts would I be able to fit them myself? The bolts currently don't screw in to anything so I'm not sure how I'd get the bolts and nuts to lock?

I gather from the description they are captive nuts, which I think means they are somehow fixed into the chassis/frame either welded or riveted.

I am not 100% but i think they use "rivnuts" or an equivalent these are inserted into a pre drilled hole then crimped in place by a pair of special pliers. these are available commercially.

 

[Spike]

martin, i do agree.

 

[Matt]

Right guys, any clear guidance on how to go about fitting these bolts back in when I recieve them from Renault please?

cheers in advance,

Matt. [smilie=thanks.gif]

 

[Steve-V6-D61]

I went to the scrap yard and robbed 8 clios of there top rear bumper mounting screws, they are dome headed torx in M6, much better than the standard bolt as they dont get snagged when going over speed bumps etc and have a larger diamiter head top so give a better spread of pressure on to the plastic tray and the torx drive holes do not get damaged, but you will still need to fit with copper grease.

Some of the chassis rail nuts are replaceble captive nuts, they just clip in about £1.50 each i think.

 

[Matt]

I went to the scrap yard and robbed 8 clios of there top rear bumper mounting screws, they are dome headed torx in M6, much better than the standard bolt as they dont get snagged when going over speed bumps etc and have a larger diamiter head top so give a better spread of pressure on to the plastic tray and the torx drive holes do not get damaged, but you will still need to fit with copper grease.

Some of the chassis rail nuts are replaceble captive nuts, they just clip in about £1.50 each i think.

Thanks Steve.