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The 1957 Dope Dauphine

Apart from it looking awesome, I Love the back wheels and sticker, the rear looks good.

My opinion on the front is still the same, I love the fogs and the bumper. Also I think yellow looks cool, way better than my yellow rusty s2000 for sure.

👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
 
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Apart from it looking awesome, I Love the back wheels and sticker, the rear looks good.

My opinion on the front is still the same, I love the fogs and the bumper. Also I think yellow looks cool, way better than my yellow rusty s2000 for sure.

👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌

Cheers @Jezer101 much appreciated 😂 😜
 
I think the Engine cover is a seasonal feature. Closed for winter / open for summer to assist cooling. You could cut a back bumper down to have 2 quarter bumpers. You might like the look!
 
So ive tinkered a little more, refitted the back bumper and removed the bonnet stand offs. Found my next job whilst trying to trace the cause of my back seats getting damp. Still not found it yet but did remove a load of matting from the parcel shelf and behind the seats where it looks like its been getting damp for a while. No structural damage just lots of surface furr. I'm lucky as the super early cars were so say made of thicker better metal but the later ones seem to be made from tin foil. Tomorrow I will finish cleaning and preping it for a coat of por15

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Get a knotted grinder wheel on that rear bench, clean it up properly, then treat it. Wear safety glasses and a mask, they throw off some nasty dust and fragments.
 
Probably bit extreme for what's here tbh, small wire wheel on a drill and hand held wire brush took it off. A lot of it came off with a cloth (y) still took a couple of hours to get it ready enough to then clean and metal prep it.

Im in need of a cavity sealant, any recommendations? there are some bits that I can just see into with a torch which look good but I cant get a brush in there to cover it up and protect it, so looking for something that could be sprayed in possibly?
 
I use the same style of Chinese heater in my workshop. I have the self contained unit. It works a treat! Must be toasty in the car!
 
I use the same style of Chinese heater in my workshop. I have the self contained unit. It works a treat! Must be toasty in the car!
Its great so far with the little amount ive used it, that said a couple of tea lights in there would of been a huge improvement.

Previously when using it I would wear a hoody and coat with 2 hot water bottles chucked in to try and keep warm so im loving any improvement
 
Rear painted and with the rain over night the leak could be pin pointed. Looks to be coming through the old rear window seal running around and through to the inside where it collects in a channel then overflows into the car. Its path would of taken it down one side of the seat and then pooled below it explaining the staining. Without removing all the stuck on matting I wouldn't have found/noticed it really as a lot was soaked up by it. I posted this on a classic and retro forum I use and I was advised to try a product called Captain Tolley. Something used to seal windows, leaks and cracks on boats. Worth a try before forking out 150euros on a reproduction rear window seal and someone to remove and refit my window. I definitely wouldn't try it myself for fear of breaking it and not being able to find a replacement
 
The rear window rubber is probably past it's best. You could try windscreen sealer, it's a bit like silicone in a cartridge gun. You put it in between the seal and the body around the top half of the screen and between the seal and the screen on the bottom half . The reason for not going all the way around is that any water that gets in at the top, past the seal/sealer can get out at the unsealed bottom , and any forced in under the seal when driving is forced outside if it runs down the inside. I know that sounds pretty dumb, but ask any old school windscreen fitter.
 
The rear window rubber is probably past it's best. You could try windscreen sealer, it's a bit like silicone in a cartridge gun. You put it in between the seal and the body around the top half of the screen and between the seal and the screen on the bottom half . The reason for not going all the way around is that any water that gets in at the top, past the seal/sealer can get out at the unsealed bottom , and any forced in under the seal when driving is forced outside if it runs down the inside. I know that sounds pretty dumb, but ask any old school windscreen fitter.

Indeed it is, its probably original to the car. Ill give the stuff ive ordered a go before trying to fully remove and re seal the window. Im not too optimistic it will work yet. Captain Tolley's - Story is the stuff, gets some great reviews.
 
I dunno if I would remove the window without a replacement rubber. You would just gun the sealer in as it is, probably best after a dry week or so!!!!!!!!!!!! Watch out the screen surround may be hanging on by it's fingernails. You don't want something like this escalating badly at this time of year.
 
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