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Steve's Land Raft

Been Busy doing battle with the Landy the last couple of days. It would appear that some work was done at chassis exchange time, but very little thereafter, so lots of siezed /mullered bolts, but slowly getting there. All lubricants renewed except engine oil , various kinds of Mud came out of various places, I think it will probably develop a couple of oil leaks, but we'll just have to see.
The Footbrake performance has been transformed.

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Original pretty worn out fronts.

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The Caliper bolts are Bi-hex and have been killed by a previous assailant, so these will be replaced. On the road it has a bit of a Howl , which I thought was the tyres, but after the outer wheelbearing fell in the basin full of crap that was under the hub, I cursed my own stupidity and went to the parts washer to clean it up , which it did to the colour of a used teabag - completely buggered, another thing on the list. I cleaned it up and re-greased it and was pleased to note the Howl had halved in volume on the way home.
It felt a little dull for performance, I drove these at work when they were new and they were good /faster than what we had as vans, at the time (sherpa 400 ,smiley Transits Vauxhall combo non turbo) I assumed that being spoiled by the increased performance of modern Diesels, that was it, but on arriving back in perth it really had woken up and was how I remembered them. Iwonder if the wastegate had been a bit sticky. It's on the list, but service first, then fit boost gauge and egt gauge before meddling. It's the 6 P's again
Proper
Preparation
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance
The Radiator has arrived, this with a Hose kit ,Water pump and T/stat will see the whole cooling system revamped except the Block, Head and Heater

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It's the oil cooler too.
One small heartstopping moment when I fired it up to move it outside, was the rumble coming from the gearbox, before I remembered that it has a pump which needs to prime after an oilchange, then silence resumed, Whew.........................
 
Been Quiet here, as I've been busy.
It is more or less ready to use now, I have went through most of it and have sorted what needed sorting and will use and evaluate what happens next.
Rear axle: oil changed, new calipers and pads. Will change out backplates for the MOT as they look bad
Transfer box : oil changed. I await the leaks...
Gearbox : Oil Changed, as above
propshaft U/J's Greased
Front axle : Oil changed Front hubs One Shot Lubed, New Backplates, Discs Calipers & pads, flexi brackets plus a N/S wheelbearing.
Full engine Service All belts water pump, filters repair airbox, repair EGR.... Tapppets , new Injector seals .
New set of Silicone breather hoses
New cooling system Rad and hoses, this is also the oil cooler
New seatbelts
Couple of pics of stripped front which were taken for my memory

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Everything on it's marks
There was a strange knock from the steering and a slight dead spot, which I thought was a TRE on the way out or incorrect adjustment of the steering box, this was a recon part which was only really months old. We had it on stands and Mike was rattling the steering while I was underneath Feeling for the clonk, nothing doing, nothing found. However I decided to put it back on it's wheels to adjust the steering box and the clonk was back with weight on the front tyres.
This turned out to be the 4 untightened bolts holding the steering box to the Chassis!! These were tightened up and revealed the movement in the lower steering U/J which was also done up, but not tight. It must have been the end of the day or ringing phone thing when all the bolts are in, but not tightened and when whoever got back to it they forgot where they had got to.
A good piece of advice given to me by an old Mechanic was that if you fit a bolt tighten it or remove it if you can't. That way when you return later you know what is fitted is tight and what isn't tight isn't fitted. It is not always possible on Engines, but could be a life or death thing on Steering, suspension or Brakes.
Easy to sort out with the front out of the vehicle anyway.

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I am going to replace the 4 M12x100mm bolts, as they are highly stressed and don't like the idea of them fretting when not properly tight.

Still a few things to do which don't affect driveability, but need doing.
Refit Windscreen with new seal
Front vent seals, I've done the pins, but am getting a Draught..
Refit trailer plug
New Doorhinges and refit the doorcard clips, so they open/close properly
Then we are on to the fun/bling stuff
Going to fit a full frontal intercooler (better for towing)
Fit a Boost gauge and EGT gauge, so that they can be monitored and possibly modified...
I am going to paint my scabby wheels as they are annoying me.
Play safe......
More soon
 
Steering Box bolts replaced and Tight.
Also fitted new Door hinges and replaced all the trim clips that hold the trim on, as they tend to break on removal. £5 a set no big deal, also had to weld the door frame at the window channel due to fatigue, the Doors will need the bottom frame renewing, but repair sections are available, back together for now and we have less wind noise and easier closing.
Still fighting with Seatbelt mountings, Corroded bolts 3 down 1 to go. This will be repaired properly as part of the seatbox, batterybox, floor plates, refurb, which is the next job.
Today the new seals arrived for the forward firing gun ports. I was getting a draught on the Drivers side ( had to be) and thought the seals would be past their best.
Port in the Heatwave/ Forward firing position.

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Then the flap is removed all together..

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The pins came out easy as I had spend an hour or so removing the original rusted hinge pins, and replaced with stainless pins. The 2 M5 bolts that hold the adjuster to the flap are easy to remove, but a bit of a game to get back on ..

The removed flap is caramel wheeled to get rid of any trace of of the old seal/ adhesive and the new ones are pressed on, they are a double sided tape fitting.

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Turns out the original seal had not been fitted correctly and had snagged on the operating mechanism and wasn't sealing for about 150mm on the top edge.

No more Draught .. Yay.. These are the Dog's in proper hot weather as with them fully opened and the windows down, it's like being in a convertable from the neck down .
Just need some Sun. I won't hold my breath....
More Soon
 
Scabby wheels:
I'm a shallow guy who likes shiny things I suppose

These were contributing to the Stop this and throw the book at it Look .

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It's a pain to rub them down, but the weather isn't great and Neither is the Telly,so after an hour or so of rubbing and cursing you get to here:

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This needs 24hr to cure then Flat for topcoat.
A quick hose of 456/90 Alpine white you then get..

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This is the same colour as the roof and why I didn't get them powdercoated, if I Hardtop it later the whole hardtop will be alpine white like a Series Landy would have been. Never was a fan of the one colour, except the roof, when the Defender came out.
 
Erm, so where was I ...... OK I was Adjusting the wastegate to give a little more squeeze, and was edging up 1psi at a time when at 14 psi it started to get noisy, you guessed it, we have found the limit of the original inter-cooler core, which was in poor condition.
That was then time to fit the big full frontal inter-cooler as above. Jeez it was a tight fit. After much trimming and cursing (not necessarily in that order) I managed to get the front panel to fit back on, after a little splash of Arles Blue.


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It shows how much it has faded ............
Along with the wheels it now looks a bit happier, I think

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I should have gone back to the wastegate, but it is a total arse to adjust, and I don't want to take the whole shooting match off the head, as it's running like a watch, ok a noisy one, but it's prety good

I have been looking at it as a whole and have decided to start at the back crossmember and work to the bulkhead , tidying up the body and more importantly the fixings , which I am replacing throughout. The rear tub floor is a framework sitting on 3 transoms on the Chassis. One was missing and the other 2 were not too pretty, so I waded in with the Drill and Grinder

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No horrors. Some of the Chassis is not Galvanised and there is a small hole as a result. After removing it all I put the rearmost Transom in to keep it in shape and have actually put the centre on in also to suport the rear tub and keep it all in shape.

I then stripped the framework off the Tub floor

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I knew that the spotweld cutter I bought would come in handy, it's perfect for this. You can see how Galvanic corrosion has completely dissolved the floor stiffeners where the steel Transoms were touching it. The replacements are now Galvanised. I'm not pissing about, all the replacement steel parts are going to be Galv and I will be fitting Polyurethane tape between the steel Ally interfaces to stop the Galvanic corrosion taking hold.
A picture of the old trash removed

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The replacement parts

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Luckily I remembered my Lazy Tong Riveter, These are the business and set pop rivets in one hit, nearly as fast as an air riveter.. Which might be on the shopping list.

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I've etched the original floorplate and need to get some Raptor and tint it to body colour , that'll do....IMG_20240423_201614841_MFNR.webp

Next up is to tidy it all up, replace as many bolts as I can. The A frame balljoint is in good nick , which is a bonus, weld the chassis and deal with the coating deficiencies. Then I can refit all the framework, I'll replace the seatbelt mount brackets with Galvy ones and refit the floor with a handful of rivets as I don't want to make it permanent until the seatbox has been out and the new batterybox fitted. I will keep on going forward right up to the bulkhead. Then it is the biggest decision on that, either repair or replace. I'm leaning on replace , as it would add significant value to the vehicle. There is a lot involved, it's not a job you would want to pay someone to do......
I'm Free to Me, so that's OK.
I've also got a Hardtop roof, so just need to find 2 90 sidepanels and a Safari back door then I can loose the Doghutch on the back.
As you will have guessed I'm not big into smoothness and quietness in cars. Modern stuff is far too insulating for the driver to ever be enjoyable. What I get out of this thing, is the banging and crashing, bouncing around and the noise and smell, suddenly it's 1978 and I'm back in my Dad's lorry. It's like being 10 again. It makes me smile. Sure I would not want to travel around the world in it , But my preferred method of doing a long journey is to send someone else..........
All the best
 
Lessons in Bedliner paint.
Whilst waiting on the welder to have a slot to repair the top crossmember end for me, I decided to tidy up the pick up tub. I had decided to use bedliner paint. My local paint factor Does not do Raptor, but does do Roberlo's version Robliner, bonus is it can be tinted to Land Rover Arles blue, downside is it is a 4 litre kit for tintable.

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The Factor tinted 2 cans for me and gave me enough tinter to do the other 2 cans if Reqd. This is a 2k product, so once you have added the hardener you have about an hour of potlife.
I had Rubbed the floorplate down with 180 and etched the bare parts, so time to go. I added the 200ml of activator and used the schutz gun, it was ok, but left a big profile finish, ok for the floor, but not the rest of the tub.

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It looks patchy in the pic, but is fine in reality.
I scrubbed the tub down with 180 and etched up the bare bits and activated another can , but also added 20% thinner and loaded it into the primer gun.

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I actually blew some Sheep wool out of the hollow section in the tub, proving this was a working Landy.

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I could have spent a week on this easy, but there's no point as I'll be putting wheels and trolley jacks in this .........

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I'm calling that a win for a ton, that's what it cost and I've still got the last can left untinted.
In other news I have got a roof and sides for the hardtop conversion, so the last can will get tinted Alpine White and it will do the inside of the hardtop sides.
Tomorrow will finish off sorting the tired rear wiring and towbar electrics.
More to follow.............
@Adey This is definitely `Made on the Driveway' too...
 
After making jokes on another thread about how long a piece of string is. I have discovered that along with car painters, car welders seem to operate in their own timelines, not governed by the laws of Physics like the rest of us.
I have been waiting a couple of weeks for the welder to fix the 2 small holes in the chassis. I phone Mon as instructed and got `I'll call you back in half an hour'
I'm still waiting..
Made the decision today to patch it myself, the TiG is not the ideal piece of kit for this job, but I got there in the end. It won't win a beauty contest, but it's now all 2mm thick .

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and the side

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I have fitted the 3 crossmembers complete with foam tape to stop the dissimilar corrosion thing happening and the 3 Alloy Longitudinals needed painting, so I did them along with the battery box .
180 orbital followed by 2 light Etch coats dry overnight. Scotch and 1 light, 1 full coat. Near enough for me

Hang out your Landy on the Washing line

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The rear needs the Longitudinals riveting to the crossmembers, then the floorplate gets fitted on top. Then I need to haul out the seatbox to make repairs there and renew the batterybox , which was what was on the Washing line

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More Soon....
 
Having put the Ass back in the Landy, It was time to move forward, from the front of the rear tub to the Bulkhead. Several hours of Grinding, drilling and impact Driving left me with this

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It's a Fred Flintstone special. Good news is the Chassis is all fine, pity about the rest......

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This was the motley collection of Trash removed.. Seatbox is ok, just the ends are shot.
The old and new battery boxes. The old one weighs about 25kg, God knows how many dodgy repairs have been done to this. Makes no sense when compared to the new light Alloy replacement at about £55.00

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I painted the battery box and end panels before tackling the seatbox proper

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Yes it was a PITA to prep.

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Always buy a heavy duty clothes line. It lets you hang bigger bits of Vehicle from it.

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That's all looking good, so we turn back to the Landy now

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You can see how the dodgy battery box repair has done for the sill rail (the frame that ties the tub to the A post and holds the sill piece) I have ordered two Galv replacements. you can see how the seat belt Brackets have corroded the tub lower front, Luckily a repair piece is available

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Just need to transfer the mounting point holes and bond it all in. I will use Foam tape on the alloy/steel surfaces.

Finally the view underneath which is all saveable, without too much Grief.......

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Famous Last words EH........
 
Well that was a bigger job than I thought. It's nearly back together again. To be Honest it went together fairly easy, it's just that I renewed a load of bits, Tub front, Brackets, Sill rails and brackets and the seat box ends. I have also rebuilt the folding steps, which now work as they should. They were totally rusted, but it is the powdercoating that is the issue. These bits are cheap to buy, but the quality suffers, so no point in replacing them, as I'll be back in the same place in no time.

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Just one of them stinking jobs where you can taste rust for the rest of the day.....

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Before anyone asks.. Yes all the screw heads point the same way. Modified the front mount, so the floorplate can be removed without unbolting the step.....

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Which now folds neatly away..

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Rear tub front now looks much better....

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Need to paint the front Diaphragm and Sills and they go on next, make a battery clamp and were off......
 
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