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Renault 11 Turbo Phase 2 Restoration

Lots of opinions, but personally it's always 2 pack. 1 coat is about the same as 4 coats cellulose. Water based still uses 2 pack primers and laquers.
The metallic 2 pack isn't really 2 pack, it's just basecoat and thinners, but it's the basecoat that's harmful to inhale.
I use a vent and a fan to take away the overspray, and don't always use a mask for a few reasons, although I'm sure I'll regret it in later life. It also gives a nicer finish than a sealed room. For the amount you are doing, and as you aren't doing it full time, a charcoal carbon respirator will suffice. Even the prep mask you have will catch most of the overspray.
Start with the basecoat. Do all your edges first and then infill the larger areas. When you think you are done use a lamp/torch/fluorescent and check you can't see through the basecoat where there isn't enough applied.
Once it's dried off, air from the gun can speed it up, any bits of dust etc can but nibbed off with 800 grit paper and re touched up if need be.
You can leave the basecoat a few hours before laquer but it only needs to be long enough to be touch dry.
If you've had a lot of overspray hanging in the air due to ventilation you may want to tack cloth the dust off prior to laquer.
For the laquer, you can paint the car side on but may be prone to runs or do it upside down but prone to less shine with overspray. Try to work from say the ns a pillars along that side of the car, along the boot and down the other side.
Depending on brand of laquer depends on its viscosity, add thinners to make it flow nicer. You can actually get away with applying more than you think. If the first coat looks dry and stippley add more thinners. Over doing the thinners will make the finish go dull as it dries though.
Generally, the more expensive the laquer, hardener and thinners, the better it is and the longer it lasts.
Use extra fast hardener, or normal with rocket additive and no heat.
Watch some YouTube vids so you know what to expect as you go along.
Good luck.
 
Over Christmas I had a little dig round and found a few pictures of the car from before I stripped it; and it reminded me of how much I actually like this car :ap:
P1010037.webp P1010051.webp P1010059.webp
Over Christmas I started to contact a few body shops around the Peterborough area about getting it booked in for the re-spray. I'm loathed to do any more myself because of PPI and booth requirements, so time to hand it over to the experts. Will keep you posted!!

Thanks for reading! :)
 
Over Christmas I had a little dig round and found a few pictures of the car from before I stripped it; and it reminded me of how much I actually like this car :ap:
View attachment 10764 View attachment 10765 View attachment 10766
Over Christmas I started to contact a few body shops around the Peterborough area about getting it booked in for the re-spray. I'm loathed to do any more myself because of PPI and booth requirements, so time to hand it over to the experts. Will keep you posted!!

Thanks for reading! :)
Steve the body shop I use for the vx220's are very good and have a very good mates rates setup.....especially if you do the drop off / collect etc. Rolling chassis I tend to take withe door etc on. Give us a bell after Xmas if you wanted a guide price....only on my work number now

Car looking good by the way

DG
 
The search for a painter goes on.

I thank you all for the recommendations made in this thread, but ideally I'm looking for someone not a million miles away from Peterborough so I can pop down regularly for updates and see what's going on. As I'm going to have so many crazy little bits to be painted, Its just easier for me to choose someone local so I'm not wasting soo much time driving halfway across the country in-case I forget/change something?

The three places I'm considering are as follows:

Classic Bodyworx
  • Classic Bodyworx
  • The very same PLACE that painted my Raider (so nice to have some link between the two cars) but now under different ownership
  • Recently done a Jensen FF
  • Visited their facility and same as when they did my Raider, but a LOT more organised.. :)
ZLS BodyShop
  • ZLS BodyShop
  • Good mixture of cars painted
  • Not yet visited (Hoping to go this weekend)
Nene Valley Body Repairs
  • Nene Valley Body Repairs
  • Very impressive website & pictures of old classics (Sole Painter for a large jaguar restorer close by)
  • Not yet been to see their facility (Hoping to go this weekend)
I'd be keen to read your opinions from what you see/feel...?

Thanks for reading :)
 
Sounds like you've already decided. To be fair it's a pretty good shell and you've done the bulk of the time consuming, tedious bits where some places would cut corners so should look good wherever you take it. If you like all 3 places and their work then maybe the decider is where uses the better products to ensure its still looks good in a few years. See what brands they use and do some research.
 
Google for reviews, check FB pages, the usual research. Ask for evidence of previous work. Visit and feel the place out.

After doing online research I took my fave candidates in a list and visited them all. After visiting I crossed off every single one :(
 
Internet research for a manual job is useless, if anything it's bigged up and fake. Like the guy who brought me my quadra, good website and fb page, family run business, various posh trucks, all over the county and europe, flash cars etc. The first visit his trailer was bumped into the day before so only brought one car, on an old transit flatbed. Next visit he was to hire a trailer to bring 2 more but he jumped out of his truck with it running and somebody pinched it before he even got to the cars. Planned to come in a van with trailer. Gave up in the end and made other arrangements.
Turns out he was a one man band and it's all gone wrong so he's no longer transporting currently!
 
Sounds like you've already decided. To be fair it's a pretty good shell and you've done the bulk of the time consuming, tedious bits where some places would cut corners so should look good wherever you take it. If you like all 3 places and their work then maybe the decider is where uses the better products to ensure its still looks good in a few years. See what brands they use and do some research.

That's a good idea @Haz, I didn't even thing of comparing products?? Any chance you can give me a quick bluffers guide on what products are good for me to drop into conversation? For example
  • Best - Brand A, Brand B...
  • Medium - Brand C, Brand D..
  • Cheap - Brand E, Brand F...
 
That's a good idea @Haz, I didn't even thing of comparing products?? Any chance you can give me a quick bluffers guide on what products are good for me to drop into conversation? For example
  • Best - Brand A, Brand B...
  • Medium - Brand C, Brand D..
  • Cheap - Brand E, Brand F...

It's not as simple as that. For me, I've only got a choice of 3 brands at my supplier, one I won't use as the coverage isn't as good like its thinned down and the other 2 depending on the job. But then there's mix and match laquers hardeners and thinners. Generally the more expensive it is the better it should be
A bodyshop may have 2 colour schemes, an insurance approved better one and a cheaper one for less prestige jobs.
 
Went and had a look at the last two body-shops today. Still considering my options..

ZLS BodyShop
  • For
    • Proper low bake oven spray booth
    • Good experience of working on old classics and showed me some very good pictures of previous projects
    • Good skill level and can produce fantastic finishes "out of the gun" leading to less polishing afterwards
  • Against
    • Currently only a one man band so a little concerned the car could be left to one side whilst other short term jobs took prioity
      Further from my house that the other bodyshop
Nene Valley Body Repairs
  • For
    • Good experience & training from local BMW dealership
    • New company looking for projects to "make his mark"
    • Won contract for local Jaguar restorer who expect good results
    • Says the same things as me as in wanting it glass smooth for concourse shows etc...
    • Local to my house
    • Two guys working here currently & would start car and then finish after a few weeks.
  • Against
    • No proper spray booth with low bake oven (Home made a spray booth with extraction)
    • Still not see anything painted by them.
 
After I went to have a look at a couple of body shops today, I got my best man Jez to give me a hand trial fitting the new wings and doors to see how things were looking to line up for the impending paint job.
I managed to source a brand new OE front wing fitting kit from eBay a few months ago, so cracked it open from it's beautiful OE box (love an OE box) :ag:
IMG_4691.webp
I managed to get hold of a pair of OE wings direct from my local Renault dealer a few months ago, and boy can you tell... I'm just DELIGHTED :ay:by how well everything seems to fit straight from the off... I'm very lucky!! There was only just one adjustment we had to do on the passenger side door to get the panels to line up. Just have a close look at these pictures of both sides after literally just bolting the doors and wings straight on:
IMG_4701.webp
IMG_4702.webp
IMG_4703.webp
IMG_4709.webp
IMG_4710.webp
IMG_4712.webp
:ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag::ag:

Few weeks ago I thought I would also have a go at stripping some of the paint off the bump strips. I did some research on a test in one of the classic magazines, and product that won was called Strypit so I thought I'd get a tin and have a go:
IMG_4686.webp
Got myself a bump strip to have a test on and followed the instructions to the letter (apply product thoroughly with stipple):
IMG_4689.webp
And it didn't even touch it!!! :cf::cf:
IMG_4687.webp
I think I'm just going to go with the rub-down and re-paint option... :grin.gif:

Thanks for reading :)
 
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