Haz
Well-Known Member
Lots of opinions, but personally it's always 2 pack. 1 coat is about the same as 4 coats cellulose. Water based still uses 2 pack primers and laquers.
The metallic 2 pack isn't really 2 pack, it's just basecoat and thinners, but it's the basecoat that's harmful to inhale.
I use a vent and a fan to take away the overspray, and don't always use a mask for a few reasons, although I'm sure I'll regret it in later life. It also gives a nicer finish than a sealed room. For the amount you are doing, and as you aren't doing it full time, a charcoal carbon respirator will suffice. Even the prep mask you have will catch most of the overspray.
Start with the basecoat. Do all your edges first and then infill the larger areas. When you think you are done use a lamp/torch/fluorescent and check you can't see through the basecoat where there isn't enough applied.
Once it's dried off, air from the gun can speed it up, any bits of dust etc can but nibbed off with 800 grit paper and re touched up if need be.
You can leave the basecoat a few hours before laquer but it only needs to be long enough to be touch dry.
If you've had a lot of overspray hanging in the air due to ventilation you may want to tack cloth the dust off prior to laquer.
For the laquer, you can paint the car side on but may be prone to runs or do it upside down but prone to less shine with overspray. Try to work from say the ns a pillars along that side of the car, along the boot and down the other side.
Depending on brand of laquer depends on its viscosity, add thinners to make it flow nicer. You can actually get away with applying more than you think. If the first coat looks dry and stippley add more thinners. Over doing the thinners will make the finish go dull as it dries though.
Generally, the more expensive the laquer, hardener and thinners, the better it is and the longer it lasts.
Use extra fast hardener, or normal with rocket additive and no heat.
Watch some YouTube vids so you know what to expect as you go along.
Good luck.
The metallic 2 pack isn't really 2 pack, it's just basecoat and thinners, but it's the basecoat that's harmful to inhale.
I use a vent and a fan to take away the overspray, and don't always use a mask for a few reasons, although I'm sure I'll regret it in later life. It also gives a nicer finish than a sealed room. For the amount you are doing, and as you aren't doing it full time, a charcoal carbon respirator will suffice. Even the prep mask you have will catch most of the overspray.
Start with the basecoat. Do all your edges first and then infill the larger areas. When you think you are done use a lamp/torch/fluorescent and check you can't see through the basecoat where there isn't enough applied.
Once it's dried off, air from the gun can speed it up, any bits of dust etc can but nibbed off with 800 grit paper and re touched up if need be.
You can leave the basecoat a few hours before laquer but it only needs to be long enough to be touch dry.
If you've had a lot of overspray hanging in the air due to ventilation you may want to tack cloth the dust off prior to laquer.
For the laquer, you can paint the car side on but may be prone to runs or do it upside down but prone to less shine with overspray. Try to work from say the ns a pillars along that side of the car, along the boot and down the other side.
Depending on brand of laquer depends on its viscosity, add thinners to make it flow nicer. You can actually get away with applying more than you think. If the first coat looks dry and stippley add more thinners. Over doing the thinners will make the finish go dull as it dries though.
Generally, the more expensive the laquer, hardener and thinners, the better it is and the longer it lasts.
Use extra fast hardener, or normal with rocket additive and no heat.
Watch some YouTube vids so you know what to expect as you go along.
Good luck.
:bb: 
