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R5 Turbo Replica build

Front lights now all connected up and working.

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I can't help thinking that if I ever did want to fit spotlights I could mount one over the air intake without too severely affecting the airflow, and then mount the other in the mirror position on the other side. There certainly is adequate room. Possibly something I'll consider if I ever plan to do anything with car at night time.
 
Showing recent progress.

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Despite what I may have said before, I'm afraid I couldn't resist fitting a pair of 6" Hella spotlights. The empty space on that bumper was just crying out for a pair. I looked at a pair of 8" Cibies but they were just too wide and deep (although admittedly much better quality than the Hellas). I'm happy with the Hellas though as they are lightweight (The Cibies felt like they were made from cast-iron), easy to remove for the track, and help to restore some of the original appearance of the car.

I did the lettering on the bonnet with a stencil made up from sticky vinyl. After painting the lettering through the stencil the vinyl simply peels off leaving the lettering behind. The font (Gloucester MT Bold) is the same as on the front of the R5 "Le Car" IMSA GTU car. The GT stripes and the blue centre is my own unique/odd/weird touch that you may or may not like.

After I get a coat of clear-gloss on the bonnet I need to move onto fitting and painting the wings.
 
Thanks Nate :!:

Wonder if it's been as hot in Oz as it has over here? At least we get our rain this side during the summer to help break the heat. Any bad forest fires your side yet?

Been fairly quiet at work so took a bit of time to read through my own thread. Can't believe I was ever stupid enough to think I could build my own car. In May of 2008 (after I finished building the frame) I wrote that it was the "home stretch from here on". It's December 2009 now and I am still plodding along. Forget how the car has changed over the past two years, looking at the pictures I can see how my garden has grown!

Have had the vinyls cut so that I can paint this (120mm diameter) on my bonnet just above where it says "RENAULT".


This is the logo of Turner Sports Cars of Wolverhampton. Jack Turner (a distant relative) built cars from 1949 to 1966. I am not entirely sure that I have the right to use his logo, but he's long since passed and is unlikely to object :? The way I see it is I built my car in the spirit that he built his first car, so maybe he'd be proud to see his logo on a car again (despite the fact that it's a French car with a Japanese engine and German suspension components). Oh dear, I think he just turned in his grave :roll:
 
Many thanks Leonard. All that detail keeps me out of trouble :P I won't know what to do with myself when this project is over.

A little more progress shown below. All three doors now fitted.


Still to do: Black pin-stripes down the sides to separate the colours, fit and paint the sills, paint and fit the louvered vents, lots of colour-sanding between additional coats of paint, and finally three coats of gloss with final sanding and polishing. All in all, an enormous amount of work. And all of this to be done before I consider fitting windows, fitting door catches/locks etc, fitting the rubber door and window seals, and all the other fiddly stuff that has to be done before the car is finished. A lot of work, but, it has to be said, an enormous amount of fun and satisfaction in the long run.
 
Thanks for asking MaxiMan. Sorry all, haven't posted anything for a while. Have done very limited work on the car since I lasted posted up pics. The summer rains well and truly arrived mid January and brought progress to a halt. I had hoped that the weather would have dried up by the Easter weekend but it didn't. And even when it wasn't raining the humidity has been too high to allow for painting (the compressor just fills with water). It seems the winter months are the only time I can get any painting done on the car. Luckily there really is very little to finish, so given the first opportunity you can expect to see her finished.

Not satisfied to simply sit on my arse while it was raining though, I set about finding something mechanical to do on the car. Something that has bothered me about building a track car from parts that originate from daily-drivers is the gear-ratios. Track cars simply don't use the same gear ratios as road going cars, and no matter how you adjust your final-drive ratio (by fiddling with the diff) you simply cannot bring your ratios close enough together to make all gears useable on the track. For example, shortening the final drive ratio may bring 5th gear into reach on the fairly short straightaways (typical of most "local" tracks) but almost always at the expense of 1st and 2nd gear, which land up confined to the pits and paddock. Shifting the final drive ratio the other way has the opposite effect, and can render 4th and 5th gear redundant (other than on a very long straightaway). No matter how you look at the problem, you are typically limited to three gears if you use a road-going gearbox on track.

And so I set about designing my own gearbox :shock:

To cut a long story short, I bought a spare Toyota W55 manual gearbox at Christmas, stripped it down, and measured everything as I went.

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A few specialised tools were required to shift some of the more stubborn gears and bearings. Luckily I found a Toyota W57 S&R manual on the net, which is identical to the W55 in all respects except for the ratios, and which includes some info on the specialised tools required to disassemble and reassemble the box.

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With the box disassembled and measured up I was able to commence the design of my own box. The idea was to keep the alloy casing, the selector rods and selector forks from the original W55, but to redesign the spigot shaft, countershaft and all gears and selector rings to suit my own track requirement. The original W55 output shaft is also retained. Given that I know (very roughly) the mass of the car, coefficient of aerodynamic drag and engine torque as a function of RPM, it was not that difficult to calculate my ideal ratios. After a fair bit of calculation using MATLAB, and simulation using GTR2 (around both Kyalami and the Nurburgring :D) I arrived at the following gears: 29, 32, 31, 31, 32 and 29 teeth on the gear clusters (1st through 5th) and 19, 27, 33, 42 and 45 teeth on the counter shaft (also 1st through 5th). These gears define the ratios:

1st = 2.00:1
2nd = 1.55:1
3rd = 1.23:1
4th = 1.00:1
5th = 0.85:1

Notice how low the first gear ratio is. A daily driver will have a first gear ratio of around 3.5:1. Although my off-the-line acceleration will be poor, This gearbox will actually give me five usable gears on track.

Once the ratios were determined, the next step was to design the gears and shafts, and then send the designs off to a gear cutter. I located a gear cutter in Germiston (just east of Johannesburg) to manufacture the gears and shafts for me. As is typical of a race only gearbox, the gears are straight-cut (spur gears) and engage to the selector rings via dog-teeth. I will not be using synchroniser rings in my gearbox. Spur gears are significantly noisier than helical gears, but are also substantially more efficient, and thus result in substantially reduced transmission losses. The fact that I am using spur gears also removes the axial forces placed on the various shafts, and thus alleviates the need for tapered bearings.

The percentage change in ratio between the respective gears are:

1st to 2nd : 22.2%
2nd to 3rd : 20.7%
3rd to 4th : 18.9%
4th to 5th : 15.4%.

The percentage change between gears marginally decreases with increased speed, but by nowhere near as much as one would expect from a road-going gear-box. The fact that each % shift is below 25% defines this box as "close ratio".

Interestingly (and I am afraid you will just have to take my word that this is purely coincidental) my 1st through to 5th ratios correspond fairly closely to the 2nd through to 6th ratios of the Quaife 60G 6-speed box. My 5-speed box will, therefore, effectively function as a 6-speed box with 1st gear removed, as was the case with the older 5-speed LeMans racers. If I had this “extra” gear in my box it would effectively function as a “crawler” gear to make negotiating the pits and paddock easier (1st gear will require some slipping of the clutch at slow speed). One thing is for sure though, with a 1st gear ratio of 2.00:1, my problems with wheel-spin in 1st gear will be eradicated.

Shown below is a graph of engine revs (rpm) as a function of speed (km/h) while shifting up through the gears. The shift is executed each time at exactly 6000rpm. The final drive has a ratio of 41:10, and the rear wheels are shod with 245/40/17’s.

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Finally, shown below is the assembly drawing of my new gearbox. Needless to say this little sub-project has kept me very busy, and is the reason I haven’t posted up on the forum as regularly as I used.



My gears and shafts are currently being manufactured by ARMA gears of Germiston, and should be ready in about 2 weeks time.
 
'Finally got around to making up the new door-sills from 2mm aluminium sheet. I wasn't happy with the GRP ones from Polytecnic. These will be the last pieces to be fitted to the car. This is the first real work I have done on the car since Christmas, both the appalling weather and a month recovering from an operation have been prohibiting factors. The weather and I seemed to recover in unison.

Show below is one of my aluminium sills next to a GRP sill. I have made mine slightly wider and squarer than the originals to give the car a slightly more aggressive appearance. I plan to have the sills powder-coated (as opposed to paint) since they run close to the ground and are likely to take a beating.
 
Hi Geoff,
I am new to this forum [joined this morning] and it took me the rest of the day to read this wonderfull post you made about building this little car. I am also from RSA and i was able to understand all the ups and downs you had here. But you build a magic car. I would like to come and view it sometime if thats allright with you. I plan a similar project, but with midmounted motor and keeping all components Renault. Bought a Le Car and all the body panels locally from a friend who built a replica in the early 90's.
Please send me an email to [email protected]. I would like to correspond with you re this project.
Again....nice work and keep it up.
Regards
Basie
 
After almost two months in the queue my gearbox job finally made it onto the shop floor for manufacturing. Shown below are the blanks machined from EN36. The blanks are now off to have their teeth and splines cut. All bearing surfaces are currently over-sized and will be ground to the final dimension after surface treatment and hardening.

I have to admit that it felt good to see my design taking shape. The spigot and counter shafts are particularly impressive.

I have been told to expect the job finished by next week Wednesday (June 2, 2010), although I expect to see at least another week added to that due to how busy they are in the workshop.
 
gordini said:
Hi Geoff,
I am new to this forum [joined this morning] and it took me the rest of the day to read this wonderfull post you made about building this little car. I am also from RSA and i was able to understand all the ups and downs you had here. But you build a magic car. I would like to come and view it sometime if thats allright with you. I plan a similar project, but with midmounted motor and keeping all components Renault. Bought a Le Car and all the body panels locally from a friend who built a replica in the early 90's.
Please send me an email to [email protected]. I would like to correspond with you re this project.
Again....nice work and keep it up.
Regards
Basie

Hi Basie.

Thanks for making contact and many thanks for your kind comments. I'll be in touch with you via your mweb address to discuss your project. It sounds very interesting. I am quite surprised that you found a replica of the IMSA GTU "LeCar" locally. I would be very interested to see this car and to learn how your friend went about building it. I am sure that everyone else here would also be interested to learn something about your car. I was aware that there were a few R5Turbo's raced here in the eighties (I knew one of the drivers at that time) but I was unaware that anyone had ever attempted a replica of the US IMSA GTU car.

Yes, you would be more than welcome to see my car, possibly I could take you for a spin some time. I live just north of Pretoria, quite close to Rosslyn and the BMW factory.

Regards
Geoff
 
.... And I now have my racing licence as issued by Motorsport South Africa (MSA).

Looks like I am on track to catch the last 4 to 5 races of the season as a novice. I'll be hanging out at the rear learning the ropes.
 
Wednesday was a bank holiday down here so I took Thursday and Friday off to give me a whole 5 days in a row to work on the car. The weather has been cold as a result of snow in the Cape, but other than the chill in the air, the sky has been cloudless and the sun gloriously warm. Perfect weather for painting.

And so, with the exception of a coat of gloss on each bumper, the paint work is now finished. And about time too :!: Of course, it's not the painting that takes up all the time, but the rubbing down between coats, not to mention all that masking-tape and newspaper that has to stuck in all the right places to protect the already painted bits from overspray. Think it's not that much work? Well consider that there are three colours down the side of the car that have to be individually masked off before they can be sprayed. And then there is the black stripes that are painted on, rather than using tape. More work than I ever want to attempt - ever again.

Other news is that it looks as if I will have to buy a new windscreen for the car. The one that I had set aside up in my roof for the past ten years appears not to be of laminated glass! Not sure what R5 it came out of, but it would have to be an old one not to be laminated. All windscreens have been laminated (by law) down here for at least the past 25 years (SFAIK). So that's a bit of a costly nuisance, but since I plan to go racing a laminated windscreen is important. All other windows will be of 3mm polycarbonate. The door windows will be fixed in position (cannot be raised or lowered) and will have the wing-mirrors bolted to the window (in the same manner as the Philips track cars), as opposed to the door.
 
Gearbox parts finally finished. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I've included the original spigot and output shaft for comparison. Note the difference in gear size (due to the fact that my ratios are track only) as well as straight cut (spur) verses helical gears.

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Other news is that, as well a being a member of the Silver Cup Race Club, I have now received my MSA race licence. I am now officially a race car driver! Now all I need to do is learn how to drive one :roll: I can see advanced driver lessons in my future.
 
'Have been putting my new set of gears together :D All working out extremely well thus far. for those that are interested in how the gears are selected, and thus engage the output shaft, see the attached pics.

Shown below (from left to right) are the 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinions (driven gears). These "float" on the output shaft on bearings. However, by sliding a selector ring from side to side the chosen gear is effectively locked to the shaft.

With both the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector rings centred over each selector hub, the gearbox is effectively in neutral.

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By sliding the 1st/2nd selector ring to the left, 1st gear is engaged.

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By sliding it to the right, 2nd gear is engaged.

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Similarly, by sliding the 3rd/4th selector ring to the left, 3rd gear is engaged.

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By sliding the 3rd/4th selector ring to the right, 4th gear is engaged. However, 4th gear sits on the end of spigot (input) shaft (not shown) and floats on the bearing visible on the rightmost end of the output shaft. Engaging 4th gear effectively locks the spigot (input) shaft to the output shaft, which is why gearboxes of this type have a 1:1 4th gear ratio. It is the job of the selector forks and the sprung loaded detent balls to work in such a way as to ensure that no two gears are selected at the same time. Otherwise the gearbox destroys itself.

For those interested, there is a most excellent Wikipedia description of how to shift gears on an unsynchronised gearbox (as is the case with my new gearbox) here. Note the reasons listed for doing away with synchroniser rings on a race-car gearbox!
 
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