9 turbo Phase 1 9 Turbo

[Big Steve - Raider]

:ahahaha:
I'd nearly forgotten about this bet but the picture helped jog my memory!!

Come on then @DaveL485 get a wriggle on, you now have £2.50 riding on this from @Sheryl_O (£1.00), @Big Steve - Raider (£1.00) and @Mart (£0.50) with a further plegde from @Neal R19 and @Adey this could be a real money spinner for you to get working on it... :bs:

 

[DaveL485]

:ahahaha:
I'd nearly forgotten about this bet but the picture helped jog my memory!!

Come on then @DaveL485 get a wriggle on, you now have £2.50 riding on this from @Sheryl_O (£1.00), @Big Steve - Raider (£1.00) and @Mart (£0.50) with a further plegde from @Neal R19 and @Adey this could be a real money spinner for you to get working on it... :bs:

Already equalled the value of the car mate!

 

[Tony Smith]

If you want in on the action the bet is a pound each, If I get it taxed and tested on the road before the end of the decade I get all the pounds, if not, I give you all a pound each

Not confident then :0)

 

[DaveL485]

I told you it would be a long thread

Anyway, I ran out of gas (the £15 disposible bottles) for the welder after 1 day working on the 21 over xmas, I figured i'd had it up too high so bought another cylinder and adjusted it down to the bare minimum and ran out of gas again after 1 day, so I need to do something around the gas bottles. I am using FAR too much to keep using disposibles. In the meantime I thought i'd attack the back axle on the 9 for a laugh as the bushes were goosed when I took it off the road in 2005, let alone now.



I just got stuck in a rattle gunned off the wheels, hub nuts, shock mounts and both axle bolts on either side. The NS hub came off easy and I stripped the shoes off, but the OS was firmly stuck on, either the wheel cylinder or handbrake mechanism was binding the brake on so I couldnt even turn the hub let alone pull it off.





After disconnecting the NS brake cable and dropping the axle down I decided to hack through the OS handbrake cable as you can get them for a few quid each and I would replace them anyway at that price. I made up some brake line plugs in the hope that the nrake lines might actually come undone.



Decided i'd heat the fittings a bit to see if they would crack off and allow me to plug the lines to the front to stop drippage.



I got the NS one off OK and plugged it, but I overheated the OS one and it blew the rubber line out of the crimped fitting lol. I clamped the flexi, then it was just the bias bar to disconnect and it was off the car.



Don't these torsion bars look fun.... NOT.



I hoped this one would be better having the cap still on



Nope

 

[DaveL485]

I managed to get the drum off with little more than brute force, at the cost of some superficial drum damage.





I tried to get the torsion bar out but the threads were goosed. There was nothing to tie a bolt in to even after I ran a tap down the hole it was all knackered. I had a think and then got my gas torch out again and heated the centre fitting for the bar where the 2 sides join in the middle, I got that really really hot and then knocked the whole outer axle segment outward. This pulled the inner joint out without having to move the outer joint.





Then I heated the outer joint and stood the thing on a steel plate and battered the back end of the bar with a lump hammer and drift. Bingo!



Once that had moved I lobbed it in the press and pushed the bar through



Bushes look mint. @Big Steve - Raider linked me the right ones to buy as I had managed to purchase the 2-bar refurb set not the 4-bar, saying that I bought em so long ago I cant even remember where from or how much!



Once the old bushes are out I think i'll get it blasted, as I have the 21 subframe to drop in for the same treatment anyway.

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Beautiful work Mr @DaveL485 and brings back painful memories of knocking those bushes out on my 11 Turbo Rear Axle. LINKY

You're a better man than me if you can get them out with a hammer and chisel without pulling a neck muscle... (I'm not used to wielding a lump hammer too much)

 

[DaveL485]

You're a better man than me if you can get them out with a hammer and chisel without pulling a neck muscle...

I drew a bit of blood out of my thumb after a bad hammer swing resulted in a rather painful contact, but aside from that i'm ticketty boo matey
I think the heat helped a lot, it's an oxy/butane set that goes up to 3000 degrees, not quite Oxy/Acetylene but way better than a butane blow torch. For a hundred quid or so it's invaluable.

 

[andybond]

I cant help but thinking that one project is enough but taking on the 9T while the 21TQ is in bits is madness.

 

[Brigsy]

That looks like a 4 bar beam to me, can see the arb in the pics behind the torsion bar, Bushes prob the same regardless. The bars fly out when the beam is in bits, my kangoo had similar rust.

 

[DaveL485]

That looks like a 4 bar beam to me, can see the arb in the pics behind the torsion bar, Bushes prob the same regardless. The bars fly out when the beam is in bits, my kangoo had similar rust.

Yes its a 4 bar, no the 2 and 4 bar bushes are not the same, ill get a pic of the 2 bar ones. Its 2 large metal collars, a big race of needle bearings, a smaller race of needle bearings and a small rubber ring.

I cant help but thinking that one project is enough but taking on the 9T while the 21TQ is in bits is madness.

Yes and no. I'm stuck on the 21 for the mo in the xmas aftermath save stripping the dash out, which I don't wanna do yet anyway. I need welding gas (affordable) and a few bits from mespieces so while I have garage time I may as well attack the 9. What I can do now isn't costing me and the car is static anyway. Once the axle is out the way I might trial build the 12v lump, and/or start the efi conversion on the 9 which I have all the parts for as i'm re-purposing the 420d from the 21 - thats going to have a new modular unit when I rebuild it.

 

[Neal R19]

You not converting to discs on the rear?

Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk

 

[DaveL485]

You not converting to discs on the rear?

Yeah cos I really want a totally shit handbrake that struggles to pass the MOT.

I'll stick with drums ta no plans to go for big performance, i'd be happy with a nice sensible 150hp, dropped suspension and cool rims.

Ordered new shoes, cylinders, handbrake cables, and axle bushes all New-Old-Stock for a smidge over fifty quid, bargain or what! eBay, for all it's faults, is absolutely fab for stuff like this

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Yeah cos I really want a totally shit handbrake that struggles to pass the MOT.....

It's all in the set-up.... My Raider handbrake is total win since I changed a rear Caliper..

 

[DaveL485]

So I have now kicked the crap out of the remaining bush material and got them out of the axle mounts. Took about an hour for both sides, after a careful think of how to approach, the inner ring I just chiselled out as they collapsed inward easily after being mostly rotted away.



Then I used an air saw to cut a slot in the rubber bush bit and peeled that out



Finally the outer collar - that was a bit more resistant and although rusted it was structurally solid so I had to use a selection of punches and chisels to pick up and edge and beat it senseless until I could collapse it enough to pull it out.





Definitely seen better days. The axle I was going to clean up manually and paint but its just really grotty and it would be a days work so I dropped it in for shot blasting along with my 21 subframe, then i'll coat with Bilt Hamber and paint by hand.

 

[DaveL485]

While under there I noticed that the fuel tank was a bit scratty (these are metal not polymer) and that there was a small patch of rust on the rear OS chassis box section near the back tank mount, where the fuel pipes run through the chassis rail. It's thick metal and a small patch so should be an easy fiw when I get some welding gas sorted so I dropped the tank off. One of the 4 bolts needed cutting off as the retained thread had broken away due to the rust.



Note to self : This is how the pipes route.



Popped the sender out and - oh. Yuk. This is what 13 years stood does to a metal tank.



I can't even get my mammoth clown hand in the sender hole so I stood there staring at it for a good five minutes and did the only thing that any normal male would do. I broke out the most violent overkill tool/solution I could think of. Plasma Cutter. And yes I emptied and dried the fuel out first!





I managed to get a very satisfying, clean cut right around the edge which will make it easier when I attempt to weld it back up again. Inside it was absolutely yukky.







I did think about getting it blasted but I need to kerb some spending so I went through 2 flap discs, a wire wheel and some sandpaper and then dug out some metal primer that I bought specifically to prime and rust cure.







Now I need to figure out what to coat the inside with to stop it rusting once it's all cleaned up. This primer is petroleum based so if I use that it'll just dissolve it and shit up my pump and filter. I also just realised when posting this that I have painted to the edge of the cut, which was stupid because now I have to clean the paint back again to weld the tank back up. I should have waited to paint it until it was welded up again.

Still, it's progress, and every job done is another job off the list.

 

[Duncan Grier]

Good stuff Dave

 

[Brigsy]

Should have just used deox gel to get rid of the rust then a tank sealer to finish mate. It will want tank sealer to finish after welding.

I had my old 11 turbo tank welded almost 20 year ago, was mega thin the lad done it with gas. Used to be able to buy aftermarket tanks, might be some new old stock kicking about.

 

[Turbell]

Look at electrolysis rust removal, you'll know the score, I've used it a lot, surprising what blasting misses.
But perfect for tanks, you could do it before or after welding, it's pennies to do, washing soda and a battery charger bit of scrap for an anode.

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

#didimentionivegotanewshmoor11r9tanksittinginmtgardenafteridecidednottouseitbecauseithasntgottheturbobaffle

 

[DaveL485]

#didimentionivegotanewshmoor11r9tanksittinginmtgardenafteridecidednottouseitbecauseithasntgottheturbobaffle

No. No you didn't mention that. Talk to me!

Look at electrolysis rust removal, you'll know the score, I've used it a lot, surprising what blasting misses.
But perfect for tanks, you could do it before or after welding, it's pennies to do, washing soda and a battery charger bit of scrap for an anode.

I am googling now.

Should have just used deox gel to get rid of the rust then a tank sealer to finish mate. It will want tank sealer to finish after welding.

I had my old 11 turbo tank welded almost 20 year ago, was mega thin the lad done it with gas. Used to be able to buy aftermarket tanks, might be some new old stock kicking about.

I don't like deox gel, never got on with it. I did have an eBay scout for a tank but all that came up was a used one in Greece that was $200...no thanks lol