MOS
Well-Known Member
They are nice.. This one needs sills as well.
Sendt fra min Pixel 2 med Tapatalk
There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
5 GT Turbo PH1 Pearl
- Thread starter MOS
- Start date
-
- Tags
- renault 5 gt turbo
Sendt fra min Pixel 2 med Tapatalk
MOS
Well-Known Member
Well, some progress..
Drivers side floor is now welded up, primed and sealed.
Next up!
Rear right chassis leg..
First cut the old off,
Good decision to cut the section out with the re-enforcement inside, it was all quite rusty inside.
Next, I cut a desk leg outer profile to fit, which is the perfect width(50mm) and thickness(2mm), weld in the anti squish bush which is a hollow spindle from a desk leg, and make the cutout for the three "fuel" lines.
I'm very pleased with the result of this.
Now the the other side, on the surface it doesn't look so bad.
But beneath two layers of steel I found this. This is an easy fix, so maybe I'll cut in the other side as well for a peace of mind.
I can't help but wonder, are there ANY totally rust free 5's around? I got this one fairly cheap, and knew there was rust to some extent, but not this bad obviously. I'm not too unhappy about it, because I know it's rustfree when done - and I've seen worse on the forums..
Drivers side floor is now welded up, primed and sealed.
Next up!
Rear right chassis leg..
First cut the old off,
Good decision to cut the section out with the re-enforcement inside, it was all quite rusty inside.
Next, I cut a desk leg outer profile to fit, which is the perfect width(50mm) and thickness(2mm), weld in the anti squish bush which is a hollow spindle from a desk leg, and make the cutout for the three "fuel" lines.
I'm very pleased with the result of this.
Now the the other side, on the surface it doesn't look so bad.
But beneath two layers of steel I found this. This is an easy fix, so maybe I'll cut in the other side as well for a peace of mind.
I can't help but wonder, are there ANY totally rust free 5's around? I got this one fairly cheap, and knew there was rust to some extent, but not this bad obviously. I'm not too unhappy about it, because I know it's rustfree when done - and I've seen worse on the forums..
Chris Smith
Well-Known Member
Loving the attention to detail and the skill 
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Really thorough work, feel happier to see someone else dig nice and deep into a 5 .
Rust free 5's ? Rust free 30 year old Renaults?
Some good looking cars will be bad and vice versa.........some bad looking cars will be better bases to start from than most people think,
Given the choice I'd always take a shitter and make it spot on, and know it's right.
I've no problem with low mileage minty cars making top dollar, you should pay to get the best, it's the eight grand cars that you need to be wise on.
Rust free 5's ? Rust free 30 year old Renaults?
Some good looking cars will be bad and vice versa.........some bad looking cars will be better bases to start from than most people think,
Given the choice I'd always take a shitter and make it spot on, and know it's right.
I've no problem with low mileage minty cars making top dollar, you should pay to get the best, it's the eight grand cars that you need to be wise on.
MOS
Well-Known Member
Got some more hours in it, this was where I left:
New parts made of 1.2 mm plate and welded in
And the other side, same story..
Now i really only thought I needed to make a small hole in the boot floor above the brace to finish the rust repairs, but I couldn't resist to pick at little in this.
And I'm glad I did- ish'
Spotwelds maked and drilled
Does anyone know if the exhaust hanger is still available?
New parts made of 1.2 mm plate and welded in
And the other side, same story..
Now i really only thought I needed to make a small hole in the boot floor above the brace to finish the rust repairs, but I couldn't resist to pick at little in this.
And I'm glad I did- ish'
Spotwelds maked and drilled
Does anyone know if the exhaust hanger is still available?
MOS
Well-Known Member
Another day in the garage..
Same procedure..
Mock up
Cut and tag weld
I decided to make some m6 captive nuts for the exhaust hanger, so it's easy to change and/or adjust if this should be the case. Also some m8 nuts were welded in for a towing hook, when I some day find one.
Beer time..
Welded in grinded down,and test fit og exhaust hanger
I wonder what's beneath the hanger!
This was luckily only surface rust. The hole is actually not because of rust, I just ripped it up when bashing the hanger off.
Ready for another 30 years service!
Next I will wipe every thing down with paint thinner before coating it all with 2k primer and sealer.
Cheers!
Same procedure..
Mock up
Cut and tag weld
I decided to make some m6 captive nuts for the exhaust hanger, so it's easy to change and/or adjust if this should be the case. Also some m8 nuts were welded in for a towing hook, when I some day find one.
Beer time..
Welded in grinded down,and test fit og exhaust hanger
I wonder what's beneath the hanger!
This was luckily only surface rust. The hole is actually not because of rust, I just ripped it up when bashing the hanger off.
Ready for another 30 years service!
Next I will wipe every thing down with paint thinner before coating it all with 2k primer and sealer.
Cheers!
MOS
Well-Known Member
Just need some tidying up before mounting the rear axle.
I didn't manage to make any pictures after it was all sealed up.
I really thought this was the last bit, but then I cleaned up the passenger side jacking point
The small dent I can live with, but not the rust.
Luckily I bought a set from Arie Pronk and only used one of them.
It should be interesting to fit...
Cheers
I didn't manage to make any pictures after it was all sealed up.
I really thought this was the last bit, but then I cleaned up the passenger side jacking point
The small dent I can live with, but not the rust.
Luckily I bought a set from Arie Pronk and only used one of them.
It should be interesting to fit...
Cheers
Last edited:
Chris Smith
Well-Known Member
Top work once again... be interesting to see the end result
Turbell
Well-Known Member
So, so many happy memories.............it'll all be worth it when you cover it all in gravitex, always a mixed emotion for me when you can't tell where you've repaired, you tell someone of the Herculean effort and personal cost it's took to rebuild the shining example before them...................and they say a new gear knob would look better........Ahhh fack off!!
Nice work, you should be proud.
Nice work, you should be proud.
MOS
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the positive comments 
Gravitex is to my knowledge not available here in Denmark, I use Dinitrol.
I'm beginning to consider which color to paint it, I'm not sure I'm gonna keep it pearl although it's the original color. Flash Red is on the top of my list right now, but also black with unpainted phase 2 bodykit with the small red strips.
I'm not sure that I wanna refurb the original seats, I saw someone reupholster a recaro or sparco seat with GT Turbo style fabric, that looked awesome! Also I'm looking for a half roll cage.
Engine wise I'm either keeping it standard or going B18FT if I can find one. Not considering EFI on C1J. I have done a B18FT conversion before, it was lovely.
Today I got the right jacking point modified to weld in, It's welded from inside the car.
Gravitex is to my knowledge not available here in Denmark, I use Dinitrol.
I'm beginning to consider which color to paint it, I'm not sure I'm gonna keep it pearl although it's the original color. Flash Red is on the top of my list right now, but also black with unpainted phase 2 bodykit with the small red strips.
I'm not sure that I wanna refurb the original seats, I saw someone reupholster a recaro or sparco seat with GT Turbo style fabric, that looked awesome! Also I'm looking for a half roll cage.
Engine wise I'm either keeping it standard or going B18FT if I can find one. Not considering EFI on C1J. I have done a B18FT conversion before, it was lovely.
Today I got the right jacking point modified to weld in, It's welded from inside the car.
MOS
Well-Known Member
Since last time I've been sealing and rust protecting my work before thinking about painting it.
Whilst disassembling the rest of the engine compartment and scuttle panel for cleaning and painting, I had a minor setback.. Scuttle video
It's still undecided how I'll fix this, maybe I can cut out something from one of the other cars, or make something.
Whilst disassembling the rest of the engine compartment and scuttle panel for cleaning and painting, I had a minor setback.. Scuttle video
It's still undecided how I'll fix this, maybe I can cut out something from one of the other cars, or make something.
MOS
Well-Known Member
Short update.
After a very long summer vacation and some general laziness, it's time to get back on the project, and get some momentum going again!
I just pick up where I left, the scuttle panel..
It's a rather complicated shape - for me at least. But I decided to give it go and make it myself instead of cutting a piece out of another car. I keep away from the spot welds, as the shape would be much more complicated than is has to be, and also I would need to remove the dashboard and heater box to do so.
Took some painters tape for template
Fits nicely.
I'm quite happy with this, it looks better IRL the on this picture
After a very long summer vacation and some general laziness, it's time to get back on the project, and get some momentum going again!
I just pick up where I left, the scuttle panel..
It's a rather complicated shape - for me at least. But I decided to give it go and make it myself instead of cutting a piece out of another car. I keep away from the spot welds, as the shape would be much more complicated than is has to be, and also I would need to remove the dashboard and heater box to do so.
Took some painters tape for template
Fits nicely.
I'm quite happy with this, it looks better IRL the on this picture
MOS
Well-Known Member
Another job off the list, passenger side door pins.. same procedure as the other side.
They needed this!
Took the easy way og removing them, by cutting them up, then no problem to take the pin out. Then same procedure as the other side.
The old door piece was mounted with "standard" non countersink M7 bolts. I didn't want to pay and wait for the original bolts, so I converted it to M6. I just had to cut 2 new threads in the backing plate.
photos.app.goo.gl
Now out with the windscreen to check for rust, I have dreaded this for a long time..
I bought one of these and extended the blade for better acces along the dashboard
I'm so exited!!
No rust what so ever, NONE!! - I can't believe it!
I'm running out of excuses for getting this thing painted.
Thanks for watching!
They needed this!
Took the easy way og removing them, by cutting them up, then no problem to take the pin out. Then same procedure as the other side.
The old door piece was mounted with "standard" non countersink M7 bolts. I didn't want to pay and wait for the original bolts, so I converted it to M6. I just had to cut 2 new threads in the backing plate.
New video by Morten Søndergaard
photos.app.goo.gl
Now out with the windscreen to check for rust, I have dreaded this for a long time..
I bought one of these and extended the blade for better acces along the dashboard
I'm so exited!!
No rust what so ever, NONE!! - I can't believe it!
I'm running out of excuses for getting this thing painted.
Thanks for watching!
Similar threads
- Featured
