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New owner needing help

R

rew

Member
Hi guys i am a young owner(24) of an 82 gordini turbo, i collected yesterday from london and drove it back 140 miles home to skegness.

Driving back it seemed like it had a miss fire, pressing the throttle down gentley it would boost well and go quicker with no smoke but sounded like it was missing, if however you tried to put foot to the floor it would bog down and miss even more, im guessing its ht leads and plugs and maybe rotor arm as these is what it has been on other cars, also fanbelt was slipping so i dont know if this contributed to the missingt however it sat at 80 with no problems.

Also how do you get the door card off as some t***t has crashed into my passenger side door mirror cracking it :(

any help would be appreciated
 
Hi and welcome, whose car did you buy, any pics?
First thing though, have you a haynes manual? Although pretty basic, it does cover the Gordini Turbo so nearly everything is in there.

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 with no1 at the flywheel at the front of car.

Regarding the door card, you need a couple of torx drivers, undo the two screws deep inside the door pull, then one for the door opener, and the two under the side pocket, then best with a trim lever or flat bar/screw driver, prise the card back from the plastic poppers.Make sure you put back properly then plastic liner behind the card as water can get in afterwards. :)

As you have stated worth checking your dizzy cap and rotor arm, can be found in Halfords or ebay. Take it you have not checked the plugs yet :wink:


This is the version you need, plenty on ebay for a few quid..................


[ebay]220787393709[/ebay]
 
Congratulations on your purchase. I had a misfire on mine before I took it apart (5 years ago...) i found one of the spark plug conductor bars had been threaded and wasnt fixed up to the spark plug properly. Take a HT lead out, put your finger in the hole and try and wobble the end of the shaft- it should be solid but one of mine was gooser'ood. If you find a loose one (and its not just the spark plug nipple thats loose) you'll have reorder from Renault (still available from memory). I got 2 made up on a lathe, £7 each. fiddly to fit but doable with care. Probably isnt the above but worth a mention as its an easy check.

Have a poke about around the front suspension chassis point (where the damper bolts to the chassis), these can cause shell headaches if rotted through the seam etc. Also similar tinworm check in the door pillars, front footwells and inside the rear arch (though for me the pillars and front suspension points make or break the car). I scrapped my original Gorini turbo shell after finding catastrophic rot buried in the A-pillars (my mistake). I got a mint 1100 le car shell and am 60% through re-assembly with the new/reconditioned Gordini parts.
 
hi no not checked the plugs i cant get the buggers out, one seems to have like an extension on the end not allowing a socket on whereas 3 are sat deep in the head :-/

Also have noticed that whilst one ht lead makes a 'pop' when being removed, it does not make a positive 'click' when being inserted on to the spark plug.

also can some one show me a pic of the dizzy cap and the correct wire arrangement thankyou
 
gordini83 said:
Congratulations on your purchase. I had a misfire on mine before I took it apart (5 years ago...) i found one of the spark plug conductor bars had been threaded and wasnt fixed up to the spark plug properly. Take a HT lead out, put your finger in the hole and try and wobble the end of the shaft- it should be solid but one of mine was gooser'ood. If you find a loose one (and its not just the spark plug nipple thats loose) you'll have reorder from Renault (still available from memory). I got 2 made up on a lathe, £7 each. fiddly to fit but doable with care. Probably isnt the above but worth a mention as its an easy check.

Have a poke about around the front suspension chassis point (where the damper bolts to the chassis), these can cause shell headaches if rotted through the seam etc. Also similar tinworm check in the door pillars, front footwells and inside the rear arch (though for me the pillars and front suspension points make or break the car). I scrapped my original Gorini turbo shell after finding catastrophic rot buried in the A-pillars (my mistake). I got a mint 1100 le car shell and am 60% through re-assembly with the new/reconditioned Gordini parts.
Click to expand...


will have a look the car passed its mot on thursday so hopefully no structural rust to speak off but when i sell my other car will be able to strip it down and give it a full respray
 
thanks that will help loads and to clarify the spark plugs are ( from front of car)

4 3 2 1 ? with 1 being under the bonnet catch?
 
rew said:
thanks that will help loads and to clarify the spark plugs are ( from front of car)

4 3 2 1 ? with 1 being under the bonnet catch?
Click to expand...

opposite way round No1 is nearest the flywheel this closest to the front bumper, then 2,3 and No4 is under the bonnet catch. :wink:

If you look closely at the 1st photo you can just see the red dots which are marking the HT leads
 
Just to let you know - you don't need to take the door cards off to remove the mirror - it should have an allen screw in one end of the mounting. Undo that, and the mirror should come off. Good luck finding a new one, though!

They are Vitaloni Baby Tornado mirrors...

Andrew (site owner)
 
yeah the spark plugs are a bit cryptic to get out, you need to take out the plastic insulated shaft that sits between the plug and the ht lead. the thread on the top of the spark plug has a long plastic insulated shaft wound onto it (conducts current), the top of this shaft is what you can feel with your fingers when you take the ht lead out the plughole. the top of the shaft might have a ht lead adapter nipple thing on it, this should just unscrew. someone else might have a better method to get the insulated shaft out but i carefully pinch the metal shaft with long nose mole grips.... and unwind anticlockwise.

now you can get your plug socket in, with an extension bar.
refitting is the reversal of removal.. but carefully nip the shaft things up as for me they're a potential weak point for coming loose etc..

Pete
 
also i made a mistake when i said if you have a loose one you will need to replace it, it may just be loose and need tightening up
 
A long reach box spanner will remove/replace the first 3 plugs with the extension cap in place, just need to remove the ext cap and use a socket and short ext bar on the one under the bonnet catch........................

[ebay]180387522361[/ebay]
 
right iv got all spark plugs out couple but oily but not over so and one was a champion that looked like it dated back the 1982 itself and that was a bitch to get out! also i only have one extension on the plugs will they run without these could this be causing it to miss fire?

also i think im going to replace the cambelt and fanbelt does anyone have the product code and/ or a place i could get them from? thanks
 
I suppose in theory you do not need the extension caps, worth checking once you put them back and start the car in the dark to make sure there is no arcing/ tracing to the head from the HT lead, the short to earth can give rough running but you should see this in the dark if it were to be the problem.

Regarding the belts , one is the alternator the other the water pump. Best to remove and take them with you to a motor factors or halfrauds and get the best match.

These are the plugs

[ebay]110685658775[/ebay]
 
good point Mark, my socket just isnt the tool for the job...

timing chain is at the rear of the engine up against the bulkhead, removing a cover will expose it (no cambelt).
 
Yes they fit straight On but the design is pants as they pivot on a scrEw and always flop down so you end up having to glue the up and down position.
 
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