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Megane MK3 250 Cup

So - a Somewhat successful/terrible day at mapping down at EFi.

Booked in with EFi today for mapping the car, as i said earlier in the thread, it was mapped to 310bhp, and i was just wanting to make sure everything was ok and to get a map on by Chris. Well this is were it went oddly - turns out the car / ECU had been flashed a good few times, and infact was running a standard map (Good News here is that its a healthy engine) Looks like its been mapped and modded and then pretty much put back to stock, and to get through emissions / fitting a standard cat back in place, they have just put a Sports Cat in (Looks to be a De-cat Previous - this was taken out the standard map)

Once Chris had looked at this and checked the car with a few runs it was time for mapping, well as with previous car, he had to adjust the actuator as it was not making the correct Psi / Boost, So Chris fiddled with this and started again. Was still showing down on were it should be, so potentially a boost leak somewhere, but nothing obvious.

But then disaster to a point - Once pushing the car / Clutch slip :( What it looks like has happened, is that a standard map has been put back in possibly because of this, as it was not present on the runs before mapping. The good news with this, if you can call it that, is the Boost Psi came back up to where it should be. So this may have something to do with the clutch slipping on the rollers.

So where i'm at is the car has been mapped, Good BHP Number, but Chris has brought the torque back a touch due the clutch starting to slip. So good and bad, to be fair its good to know i need a clutch before it actually goes, and can save the pennies for it, as driving normally (Daily Commute) i won't actually notice it, but gunning it round the B Roads i will.

So a question for the knowledgeable on here, Is it worth doing the flywheel/slave cylinder as well as the clutch, or just get away with a clutch kit? in an ideal world i'd do it all, but the costs for the Fly wheel are crazy, and certainly no rattle form the fly etc. Just purely slip.

Will post the results up from the dyno when i get 5 - also picked up 2 x Steev Alloys on the way back up the road with nearly new tyres on for £150 - just need another 2 and then i'll refurb them.

Ian

33.webp
 
I had the same issue when Chris mapped mine, clutch started slipping at 360ft/lb and he had to pull the torque right back to 340ft/lb. It started slipping bad on boost after a few pulls on the road sadly.

Id do flywheel, clutch and slave. Crank seal if leaking. Its a big spend but do it once and no need to revisit in the future.

Also worth getting the map checked after new clutch as the engine might be loaded up more.
 
I had the same issue when Chris mapped mine, clutch started slipping at 360ft/lb and he had to pull the torque right back to 340ft/lb. It started slipping bad on boost after a few pulls on the road sadly.

Id do flywheel, clutch and slave. Crank seal if leaking. Its a big spend but do it once and no need to revisit in the future.

Also worth getting the map checked after new clutch as the engine might be loaded up more.
I kinda thought that would be the answer, and i know in myself its daft not to do it all at the same time, just a massive cost - Luckily the commute into work is mainly crawling along, so no great load on the clutch, so should get enough time to save for the parts and then the cost of fitting. Just i know what garages are like with supplied parts rather than them supplying.

I asked Chris about tweaking the map once done, and he said i'd only be looking at getting an extra 5-7 lb/ft - So for the cost in getting down and the time on the road i shouldn't worry about it. Just a bit of a kick in the knackers knowing i need a clutch, but on the other hand, i know it's wear and tear.

One Question tho, the Flywheel bolts, are those stretch bolts do you know, as in worth replacing aswell?
 
I suppose it depends on how long you plan to keep it? And also if you plan to do the spannering yourself?

When I refurbed the gearbox on mine, I didn't touch the flywheel, clutch or slave cyl (put new oseals on it) as its realistically a weekends worth of work doing it slow time.

Ironically, my clutch is also slipping 😄 Im hoping to do it fairly soon and I only plan to do the clutch and slave cyl.
 
It will last for ages under normal driving.

Flywheel bolts will need to be changed as one use stretch. Not expensive though, iirc new dual mass came with a set.

I was thinking map check not for more power, just incase its gone a bit leaner with additional load due to no slip. Simple afr check.
 
I suppose it depends on how long you plan to keep it? And also if you plan to do the spannering yourself?

When I refurbed the gearbox on mine, I didn't touch the flywheel, clutch or slave cyl (put new oseals on it) as its realistically a weekends worth of work doing it slow time.

Ironically, my clutch is also slipping 😄 Im hoping to do it fairly soon and I only plan to do the clutch and slave cyl.
It'll be with me for a good few years, i could in reality do the spannering myself, but the boxes are heavy sods, and i'm getting to old to be lying on the drive to do it ha ha
 
It will last for ages under normal driving.

Flywheel bolts will need to be changed as one use stretch. Not expensive though, iirc new dual mass came with a set.

I was thinking map check not for more power, just incase its gone a bit leaner with additional load due to no slip. Simple afr check.
Thats what i was thinking, ultimately my driving is 97% 30mph or slower at the minute, yeah £30 or something for the bolts, so if they are Stretch i'll replace them, Been having a goole search aswell with regards to single or dual flywheel, i'm thinking sticking with the dual, just for smoothness of driving. any thoughts :)
 
Stick with dmf as smf noisy and i dont think it does the pk bearings any good, they are a bit weak anyway.

I went with new oem dmf and rts dual friction clutch. Drives like oem and no slippage issues at 378hp/345ft/lb.

If you use stock clutch, use genuine renault as some aftermarket do not hold as much torque.
 
Stick with dmf as smf noisy and i dont think it does the pk bearings any good, they are a bit weak anyway.

I went with new oem dmf and rts dual friction clutch. Drives like oem and no slippage issues at 378hp/345ft/lb.

If you use stock clutch, use genuine renault as some aftermarket do not hold as much torque.
Yeah will all be Genuine Renault, daft not too - Think all parts i can get for £700, and think i'll be looking at £300 to get fitted. Bloody Renaults, if the box wasn't as heavy i'd prob end up doing it, but the weather is pish, and no one to help get it in and out ha ha
 
I dropped the subframe, lowered the box down with the crane and slid it out.
Ah that makes sense :) Yeah i don't have a hoist, so would be on the jack, if i can get it supplied and fitted for under a grand i'll bite their hands off, if not, limp the car through to summer, and knock it out over a few days, Just with a garage, anything crops up they can deal with straight away. ie seized bolts in the hubs and what not ha ha. Need to do a write up when you do yours :)
 
I think that every time i work on any of my cars these days😆
Least you have a garage, currently waiting on a break in the weather to change a vaccum pump on the other car (BM) easy enough to do, but Bloody weather, and when it is sunny, it's freezing.
 
Least you have a garage, currently waiting on a break in the weather to change a vaccum pump on the other car (BM) easy enough to do, but Bloody weather, and when it is sunny, it's freezing.
Garage is full of projects so currently got my Kangoo outside on axle stands waiting for a break in the weather to refit engine. Feel your pain mate!
 
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