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How (not) to make your Dauphine Handle
- Thread starter Steve Swan
- Start date
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Basically the story is that anything purely phone based is going to be problematic?? Need to have a fixed GPS unit in the vehicle which has its data accessed,by your phone or other device??
What happens with regard to weight, rolling resistance,drag etc. There won't be a database with a Queron replica in it. Weight is easy, Public weighbridge. Rolling resistance is low I can push it on a smooth level surface with one thumb, 5-10 kilos force( benefit of old cars). Drag I can probably get close with the width X height X 0.82 X co- efficient ( which I may be able to find for a standard car. Then there's temp and barometric pressure which should be measured at the intake point. Am I overcomplicating this? It's a bad habit of mine.....
What happens with regard to weight, rolling resistance,drag etc. There won't be a database with a Queron replica in it. Weight is easy, Public weighbridge. Rolling resistance is low I can push it on a smooth level surface with one thumb, 5-10 kilos force( benefit of old cars). Drag I can probably get close with the width X height X 0.82 X co- efficient ( which I may be able to find for a standard car. Then there's temp and barometric pressure which should be measured at the intake point. Am I overcomplicating this? It's a bad habit of mine.....
DaveL485
Staff member
Yes
Andrew Watkins
New Member
Binocular loupe is amazing as we age - you can get cheap ones from electrical hobby shops for 30 quid ( $50.00+ over here ). About GBP 400 for medical quality ones ( Heine ) , which are amazing and designed for long hours of use, so stable, unlike el cheapo ones.
I got onto them professionally ( cannulating umbilical arteries in 23 week prems ) but they now have an honoured place in teh workshop for things such as this.
As we get older we have to cheat more
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
I'm always astounded at the way surgeons work with sight enhancement technology. It looks difficult.... I am one of those people who dislikes anything on my person. I tried false teeth to fill in the gaps and like my Father decided after a couple of months perseverance that I would manage with the gaps. I can't wear rings or anything like that. I've worn cheap Casio watches since I was a teenager, funny how the price hasn't gone up in 40 years. I like them because they are weightless, I'm probably on my fifteenth. I hate my glasses and have broken many pairs. I have become very adept at soldered repairs on the frames and always choose lightweight metallic stuff that I can fix.Binocular loupe is amazing as we age - you can get cheap ones from electrical hobby shops for 30 quid ( $50.00+ over here ). About GBP 400 for medical quality ones ( Heine ) , which are amazing and designed for long hours of use, so stable, unlike el cheapo ones.
I got onto them professionally ( cannulating umbilical arteries in 23 week prems ) but they now have an honoured place in teh workshop for things such as this.
As we get older we have to cheat more
I make models, much less so now cause of my eyesight, some of my friends who I make bits and pieces for keep suggesting contacts, but I really don't fancy that at all. To pinch a phrase from Stephen King I am a man who is learning to be old, but it ain't working.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Not been near the Dauph for about a Month, other than to check it's still there, however I've not been entirely idle. Domestic issues have kept me busy with my own and Sister-in-law's heating systems, which appear to be resolved. I am awaiting a couple of gearboxes for overhaul, we'll see what we'll see.
I have been buying toys for the workshop though, I am officially retired now, but it feels odd as my wife does not retire until April 2024, so I get up every morning to get her Breakfast and do all the domestic stuff , which is OK, but puts a bit of a hole in the day, it'll be nice when she is retired and we can share the chores again.
First up some cheap grinder tables from Axminster tools.
These are adjustable so that the tables can be set at different angles, problem is at less than £20 the range of adjustment is in 15 degree steps which is completely useless for tool grinding. I am going to see if they can be modified to be stepless in adjustment. Watch this space...
They are a huge improvement on the junk supplied with a Grinder, and while I mention it treat yourself to a couple of top class wheels from the likes of Norton or Garryson. They will cost you more than the Grinder did, but they will transform it into a useful piece of equipment .
Next up is a Servo drive for the Miller. There are Chinese copies around at a fraction of the cost of the original types, so I took a chance and got one out of the worlds dustbin.
Seems fine, just need to finish off the limit switches. Shimming up the crownwheel and pinion type drive is a chore (they supply about 15 shim washers in the kit) but is easier than a Renault Diff . Hoping it will improve the surface finish of the parts made on the Mill, maybe it's me that's useless we'll see.....
Compliments of the Season to all here. I hope 2024 is a better year for you all.
I have been buying toys for the workshop though, I am officially retired now, but it feels odd as my wife does not retire until April 2024, so I get up every morning to get her Breakfast and do all the domestic stuff , which is OK, but puts a bit of a hole in the day, it'll be nice when she is retired and we can share the chores again.
First up some cheap grinder tables from Axminster tools.
These are adjustable so that the tables can be set at different angles, problem is at less than £20 the range of adjustment is in 15 degree steps which is completely useless for tool grinding. I am going to see if they can be modified to be stepless in adjustment. Watch this space...
They are a huge improvement on the junk supplied with a Grinder, and while I mention it treat yourself to a couple of top class wheels from the likes of Norton or Garryson. They will cost you more than the Grinder did, but they will transform it into a useful piece of equipment .
Next up is a Servo drive for the Miller. There are Chinese copies around at a fraction of the cost of the original types, so I took a chance and got one out of the worlds dustbin.
Seems fine, just need to finish off the limit switches. Shimming up the crownwheel and pinion type drive is a chore (they supply about 15 shim washers in the kit) but is easier than a Renault Diff . Hoping it will improve the surface finish of the parts made on the Mill, maybe it's me that's useless we'll see.....
Compliments of the Season to all here. I hope 2024 is a better year for you all.
DaveL485
Staff member
Same, given the loss of our welsh chum and Steve throwing himself under a Kadjar, 2023 wasn't the best year for the TR crew!
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Decided to try out the table feed on the mill. I get some of my materials from industry's scrap bin, This block had been an offcut and was off the saw on all 6 faces, it was true, but had the usual saw draught marks. After a bit off a faff, I settled down to flycut it true and square. Took about 45 mins and the result is much better than before.
Much better than it was.
What I do need its a better Flycutter. Will have a hunt over the Holidays to see what's available, apart from the usual Chinese El-cheapos which lack rigidity for fine finishes and are too small for carbide tooling. This is a must for me, as I lack the skill for grind tools to proper finish quality. I do what I do best............ I get by.
Merry Christmas all..
Much better than it was.
What I do need its a better Flycutter. Will have a hunt over the Holidays to see what's available, apart from the usual Chinese El-cheapos which lack rigidity for fine finishes and are too small for carbide tooling. This is a must for me, as I lack the skill for grind tools to proper finish quality. I do what I do best............ I get by.
Merry Christmas all..
Wheelers Workshop
Active Member
Hi Steve and all readers,
Firstly, Compliments of the season and best wishes for the coming 2024.
Steve, I finally today have just got around to reading all your threads from no 10 up to date, still in awe from your travails, ups and downs, highs and lows, all taken in your capable stride!
Having suffered from ill health during most of 2023, but still managing daily work on my '58 Dauphine and also competing in the R8G on MSA Sprint events and Hillclimbs, its not been that bad, my mind is totally occupied while restoring the '58 chassis as I am in my own little world again just as I was in my early twenties [ circa1976] when I built my GP 4 Dauphine with its ex Alpine A110/R8G suspension and std R17 G motor fitted. This with its 215mm clutch would consume 2 x1300 R10 Transaxles at least annually, auto-testing usually killed the R8 1100 earlier weaker type 330 boxes.
Being fed up with numerous [10] and without warning sudden tranny blow ups I entered the Welsh Counties Car Club 1983 Coronation Rally on Epynt [ a God forsaken desolate place] We duly started at Halfway where the Parc Ferme was, being aware that gentle starts were the order of the day to preserve the Tranny, we had fastest time on the helicopter pad gravel, which probably saved the tranny, Mr Bowen's Cooper S Mini broke its box on the startline in front of us!
So continuing on with some 10 gallons of fuel in the Cortina Mk2 Front Tank, by the Halfway halt we were second o/all on the event time sheet.
We were using the borrowed notes of another mate who had a rapid rally mini but I had confidence with John Evans calling them. We survived, nothing fell off , and we stayed on the road, the slow starts worked and the pace was spot on, a final autotest at Dixies cost me a10 second penalty when I just brushed a rear wheel against a road cone base in the slalom.
The Carnage on the event was considerable Matin Jubb went off for a few hundred metres after leaving the road his ex works Triumph 2.5P.I. it was reportedly now banana shaped, a Reliant Sabre left the road and landed on another crashed car what a mess, my club mate rolled his Honda S100 on gravel [ not too badly] .
Pleased with all the silver wear at the finish, we stayed overnight locally to celebrate. A week or so later I went to collect a take away , there was a bang and a shudder from the box and latterly I found that a tooth had parted from the pinion shaft, we were lucky on the rally I guess.
In those early formative years I had never even heard of Georges Queron nor was I aware that a Dauphine had won the '58 Monte Carlo Rally even. It was later in 1980 that I built my first big box from an R16TL 336/ R8 330 while modding another 336 box with an R10/Imp gearchange for my Imp [RIMP] with its 1647 cc alloy Fuego motor I had lying around, so with all the above bits on the bench and having one 364 big U/J from John Price box of spares I had from him and finding that the bigger splines were the same as R16 , I just simply reverse engineered it from there, we formed the other U/J by welding the inner yoke to a steel plate and using an indexing head slotted every single spline it took ages to do.
Next we made the very first ever spacer ring from a cut up railway wagon axle, it was hard steel to machine but beggars etc. Those were the days when mates would gladly help with welding and fabrication jobs after long chats drinking lager and so forth. My Boxes became more developed after each discovery of what was in the breakers yard culminating in 1605cc R17 365 innards and a Quaife ATB Lotus diff, the rest of the development is as Steve has carried forward with his considerable engineering skills.
The R8G is still parked up after 2 days competing at Shelsley Walsh last July, so I might wake it up this spring and take it for a steady blast on our 20mph speed restricted Welsh roads.
The project ex Twingo RS133 K4M 16v VVT Motor for the R8G remains as the last few years i.e. just waiting for its dizzy adaptor to be finally fabricated. If its all good then Mr Sacco will be waving his magic wand over it to release the potential hidden 50 odd extra horses.
The big technical issue is the cast alloy std sump which is some -30mm lower than the 5GTT tin sump is use on the 5G 1700 motor, the sump contains a chain driven off the crank, to a traditional sprocketed gear oil pump which is all cast alloy, so the pick up cant be shortened as it has a tapered bore internally, but seeing your dry sump set up its given me food for thought! I am still searching for bigger diameter pistons as the block will take a good rebore [ subject to any porosity] as the block does not have removeable liners.
I also have so many other things I daydream about to do following my retirement, I am designing a battery powered bathchair for when I eventually go into the Home for permanently bewildered rear engine Renault fanatics, I know of the whereabouts of Tesla motor for it !
Keep up the good work.
Nadolig Llawen
Wheeler
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Compliments of the season to you Dave @Wheelers Workshop .
`Lang may your Lum Reek'
You need to start a Wheelers workshop thread on here, as it is the only working forum for Renault here in the UK. The information just gets lost on social media, at least here it is in coherent threads that make some sense when read through correctly.
Best
S
`Lang may your Lum Reek'
You need to start a Wheelers workshop thread on here, as it is the only working forum for Renault here in the UK. The information just gets lost on social media, at least here it is in coherent threads that make some sense when read through correctly.
Best
S
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
@Wheelers Workshop I should add that they are a friendly bunch on here and you may get the intel you need about your modern 16v motor. If there is a different type sump/oil pickup you can use, I'll bet someone on here will know. I would try @Adey first, if he does not know chances are, he will know who to try...
Wheelers Workshop
Active Member
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the info regarding the std oil pump within the K4M motor, I had initially considered making a bespoke steel sump similar to the R5Gordini one I use on the R8G std motor. The K4M Twingo Motor conveniently has a one piece thick steel sump gasket with a continuous neoprene fringe to seal in the oil, its a good template to begin with for forming a one off steel sump.
I have numerous spare early design [ for R8 use] K4M blocks to work with and a K4M alloy sump with the bottom sump part of the casting sawn off.
This when mocked up should give exact internal clearances for the pick up tube alterations. Originally I was getting it rewelded 30mm higher up from the ground but my welding mate has shied away from welding oil contaminated alloy.
Regarding the all alloy Factory chain driven gear oil pump, of which I have a good number of in stock, the cast in pickup could possibly be machined away close to the pump body port , and a suitably fabricated curvy steel pick up/strainer formed to suit the higher sump level. It would be also possible to make a billet end plate for the pump body saving valuable millimetres of depth.
I also have a Volvo 340 1400 deep sump which could be cut up as a starting point.
When I built the 4CV Le Mans Race Team replica 904cc Sacco Gordini unit, I made a big wing steel sump [like a Mk1 Ford Escort has ] from the lower part of an Early Diesel Renault Traffic Van steel sump which had 2 big side wings and a vertical oil drain plug, I cant seem to find another one anywhere on the internet now. This was mated to a Dauphine cut up upper sump and seam welded. It worked well and looked good.
Finally, I was puzzled as to why the Renault Family of transverse modern motors have such heavy structural alloy sumps, ground clearance is not an issue on models with 16 inch+ road wheels and the power train is mounted high within the engine bay. Its obvious the O/S long drive shaft has a bearing joint at half way located within a heavy cast iron plummer block which is bolted very securely to the sump flank. I guess that block stiffness is enhanced as a result as well, as the ring of sump bolts are installed very tight hence the steel gasket .
Cheers
W
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
New toy............
The previous cuts were taken by a cheap Chinese Flycutter holder with a HSS tool
Pretty pathetic I'll admit, however the new cutter is a fair bit larger and takes a 1/2" sq Carbide tip toolbit
Thus
This gives about a 120mm swing which could probably go to 200mm max, a significant upgrade.
Hard to get the angle I wanted but you can see the reflection of the spindle in the surface which is so much better than the non reflective surface produced before.
As Always I'm never happy it wont run over 300 rpm as it begins to shake the whole machine, so I think a couple of large holes need to be drilled to balance it out a bit, or a bolt on weight. Decisions Decisions.....
The previous cuts were taken by a cheap Chinese Flycutter holder with a HSS tool
Pretty pathetic I'll admit, however the new cutter is a fair bit larger and takes a 1/2" sq Carbide tip toolbit
Thus
This gives about a 120mm swing which could probably go to 200mm max, a significant upgrade.
Hard to get the angle I wanted but you can see the reflection of the spindle in the surface which is so much better than the non reflective surface produced before.
As Always I'm never happy it wont run over 300 rpm as it begins to shake the whole machine, so I think a couple of large holes need to be drilled to balance it out a bit, or a bolt on weight. Decisions Decisions.....
Norwich Nick
Well-Known Member
Got to be lightened and balanced, Shirley.
(I’ve no experience with mills or lathes, I was trying to make a funny link about flywheels, failed, so went to a classic gag)
(I’ve no experience with mills or lathes, I was trying to make a funny link about flywheels, failed, so went to a classic gag)
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
It is that effect tho. Nothin better than Police Squad.
Wheelers Workshop
Active Member
Hi Steve,
I agree the character of Frank Dreben was a one off comedy gem.
Back to rear engines etc, I note that you are using the latest French transaxle side mounts design on the Proto, with the 8 no original Peugeot 204 modified rear subframe Saslic Metalastic mountings.
I first saw these mountings which were fitted to Bruno Everards A110 1800s at the Parc Ferme in Etretat a few years ago, they also appear in the Meca Parts web site photos and apparently have done a whole season of rallying / hill climbs fitted to Bruno's Car without failure.
I have 2 sets of these modern kits, both of a similar design, however 1 set lowers the Box by about 15mm when compared to the other set, I have always used the Gp 2 Metal straps which were available in period for the R8G. Mine were home made copies and served me well over the decades, however I have had some failures of the strapping shearing off though!
Currently I have a Renault new fitted set from Tony Gomis [ who did not like them on his car] and these are holding up well to date, initially I used the Ex John Price A110 Side mounts he sold to me in the 1980s these again were part of the 1960s Gp 2 Renault Kit utilising much harder rubber blocks[ to be used with the Gp2 harder rubber engine mounts].
So I have fitted the longest set of these modern mounts to my Dauphine Box, which fit easily enough and seem to not be in any stress when bolted up to the crossmember unlike the std mounting which stretch as you bolt them up.
I suspect that with wide rear wheels and stiffer springs etc, that side location of the axle may be considerably improved, but for and aft pitching of the axle/box will still occur with std soft engine mounts.
My'56 French 4CV which once belonged to an ex Parisienne Papparazzi driver, who referred to it as his Racing Car and which had the ultra rare Gregoire rear suspension kit fitted, this improved the rear axle location enormously, resulting in the driving feed back which was good and I could lean on the cars rear axle in bends without the slop/ rear steering and tuck under etc like a std 4CV/Dauphine displays.
This kit had 4 additional horizontal helper springs ahead and trailing the axle tubes and 2 uprated main road springs [6 in total] all fitted into an alloy bracket located on top of the 4CV tubular steel gearbox beam, ingenious to say the least.
The virgin 4CV axle location is very good as its clamped to the tubular crossmember solidly at the gearbox top 4 stud area, and only has rubber mountings at the crossmember chassis ends.
I removed this above Gregoire kit and fitted it to my circa 1950 Le Mans Works replica Race tribute car that I built, with its period correct Claude 5 Speed box and a 904cc Gordini motor, the donor 4CV was put back to standard 2 spring suspension, and it never felt the same on the road again.
M. Gregoire [ the famous car designer of repute] who added all the squidgy rubbery bits to the later Dauphine rear suspension actually created in my opinion the terrible rear steering and location issues , while trying to make the new model smoother and quieter on the road.
The Gregoire kit horizontal springs [ size similar to a Rally Chopper bike seat] were anchored at either end in bushed alloy trunnions and clamps around the axle tubes next to the drum plates, would stretch and compress together as the axles articulated thus providing better location , the road springs were longer and stiffer as well.[rates unknown].
I have studied all the period bolt artisan trailing arm kits which were available in period and similar modern solutions, I still feel that the axle tube trunnion locations in the box must line up accurately with their corresponding anchor articulation points to be mechanically in line.
I did have a set of rubber bushed "Tirants" with adjustable length rods for the Dauphine models, which clamped onto the axle tubes and anchored underneath the engine mountings /bumper iron bolts area , but I did not ever fit ever as I was unhappy with the radius arc they would describe in full suspension articulation.
We have come along way with taming Renault Rear Engine Swing axle suspension issues, culminating with your Zed Bar kit Steve.
Happy Days
W
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Although the rear end is simple to the point of crude, there is more to it than meets the eye. I have learned quite a bit by accident over the years. I used the standard system in the beginning, which worked OK. I then used a set of Dave Astburys bush type side mountings which were a great bit of Kit, but that and rosejointing the forward ends of the radius arms with huge 2" rod ends borrowed from an out of hours Chinook, plus sticky formula Ford Avon ACB tyres ended up giving no rear end grip, compared to the front. The issue was that the old mountings were stretching in service which was acting as a rear spring rate limiter. The solution was to go up 150 lbs on front springs to get the balance back. this worked out well and the cars dynamic grip improved dramatically. The thing the textbooks don't always tell you is that sticky tyres need harder springs to maximise their effect. Putting sticky tyres on a standard car won't really make that much difference to it's lap times ultimately as it will roll too much and not really put energy (heat) into the tyre. The excellent Fred Puhn's book on how to make your car handle starts with the premise that you should settle on the tyre you want to use and Tune the rest of the suspension to get the most out of it.
The second accidental lesson was when moving a mate's 4cv proto. I had made the mods to the front to allow the complete R8/10 front end to be fitted. We had fitted an R10 crossmember to the rear and had an empty gearbox case held by just the top pin mount and axles and springs fitted .
As we manoeuvred it about the yard it was funny to watch the box pendulum from side to side depending on the steering lock supplied. It took me by surprise and I then pushed it about the yard watching it's behaviour for the next 1/2 hour. It made the purpose of the block mounts on the box much clearer than previously.
I may go back to bushes on the box sides again, as they are superior to every other system as they provide the same location irrespective of the direction of lines of force being input. There really should be an anti- porpoising mount from the nose of the box, which is not a new idea either, but this disperses the torque reaction on standing starts into the bodyshell. It is on the list....
If I still had access to a foundry (which I don't anymore) It would be another daydream to try to recreate the Gregoire system. I wonder how well it would work with heavier cars with more torque and stickier tyres, but it is a super clever idea, up there with some of Arthur Mallock's better ideas. Link "THE FRIEND" GREGOIRE
I tend to be one of those type of people born with unrealistic expectations in life, which unfortunately always makes you feel that you could have done a better job with all your endeavours. This is why I mess around with the stuff I do, because regardless of what I bought, within a month of owning, I can only see what I don't like. The more basic the vehicle, the less there is to irritate you.............
I have just spent the morning repairing the wife's Cricut Maker, CNC plotter/cutter. I do all my gaskets with it. Clever bit of kit made from absolute trash, which is now sporting 2 piece brass tube bearing hinges to replace the snapped off plastic pins that you cannot buy ANY spares for.......... Makes you feel like you've lived too long.
The second accidental lesson was when moving a mate's 4cv proto. I had made the mods to the front to allow the complete R8/10 front end to be fitted. We had fitted an R10 crossmember to the rear and had an empty gearbox case held by just the top pin mount and axles and springs fitted .
As we manoeuvred it about the yard it was funny to watch the box pendulum from side to side depending on the steering lock supplied. It took me by surprise and I then pushed it about the yard watching it's behaviour for the next 1/2 hour. It made the purpose of the block mounts on the box much clearer than previously.
I may go back to bushes on the box sides again, as they are superior to every other system as they provide the same location irrespective of the direction of lines of force being input. There really should be an anti- porpoising mount from the nose of the box, which is not a new idea either, but this disperses the torque reaction on standing starts into the bodyshell. It is on the list....
If I still had access to a foundry (which I don't anymore) It would be another daydream to try to recreate the Gregoire system. I wonder how well it would work with heavier cars with more torque and stickier tyres, but it is a super clever idea, up there with some of Arthur Mallock's better ideas. Link "THE FRIEND" GREGOIRE
I tend to be one of those type of people born with unrealistic expectations in life, which unfortunately always makes you feel that you could have done a better job with all your endeavours. This is why I mess around with the stuff I do, because regardless of what I bought, within a month of owning, I can only see what I don't like. The more basic the vehicle, the less there is to irritate you.............
I have just spent the morning repairing the wife's Cricut Maker, CNC plotter/cutter. I do all my gaskets with it. Clever bit of kit made from absolute trash, which is now sporting 2 piece brass tube bearing hinges to replace the snapped off plastic pins that you cannot buy ANY spares for.......... Makes you feel like you've lived too long.
Wheelers Workshop
Active Member
Hi Steve,
I also fabricated a gearbox anti-porpoise top mount for the 353 box, which was adjustable via a turn buckle and spherical bearing at one end and a steering rack eye at the top spine on the box. I don't recall any obvious improved feeling from the car with it fitted, If I adjusted the turnbuckle all it did was lift the box vertically against its rubber side mountings. The anchor point was where the old rear tank 4 studs are, I used the lower two studs, this panel as you know is a lot thicker than the equivalent Dauphine one. The A110 has a rod steady bar back to the crossmember top mount bolt area from the bellhousing.
I also modified the 2 standard R8 trailing arms by cutting them apart and welding in a pair of turnbuckles ex Opel Commodore rear axle locating links and at the wheel end. I also had the hex adjusting washer area welded up solid and drilled for a suitable hole for the M12 stud to pass though. A section of bike inner tube was slid on to the tubes to stop water ingress to the adjusters. What I did not do was remove the rubber bush end and go spherical like you did.
When I get my cars front tracking checked on the Lift Ramp by Laser these days I always wanted to check/adjust the rear axle in real time with these easily adjustable trailing arms, but as its Tyre Fitting Garage business they want you in and out quickly--one day maybe. I will probably add sphericals bearings to the rods one day, but I suspect that the shell will be flexing anyway.
I did the similar modification to the 5 speed gear change rod at the box end by welding in a turnbuckle sourced from an R20 track rod which has a neat clamping sleeve and this allows instant easy adjustment of the rod length and also the left to right std gearstick angle to suit the drivers seating position It can be used for 4 speed and 5 speed boxes, and has been in for some 10 seasons now and has never 'slipped' its clamped up adjuster.
Cheers from a wet and windy Wales.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Went along to check on the Dauph today. All good, the oil tank has wet sumped it's contents into the Engine. This has revealed a couple of minor oil leaks that will need investigating at the next oil change. I checked it a couple of times after leaving it and it seemed ok, but have not checked it for 2 whole months, so no big deal really.
I need to get the generator going and the battery charger on the car and jump battery, then plugs out and turn over carefully on the starter till the oil is all back where it should be, then I can get on with finishing a few bits needed before the start of spring.
Thinking about the solid PVC tiles for the floor - Anybody got any experience? Got to be better than lying on the cold Concrete floor.
Happy Motoring................
I need to get the generator going and the battery charger on the car and jump battery, then plugs out and turn over carefully on the starter till the oil is all back where it should be, then I can get on with finishing a few bits needed before the start of spring.
Thinking about the solid PVC tiles for the floor - Anybody got any experience? Got to be better than lying on the cold Concrete floor.
Happy Motoring................
Wheelers Workshop
Active Member
Hi Steve,
Cold Floors, well I have one as well in my hired lockup, I use hand me down interlocking play mats which were used for covering the lawns when the grand kids played on the slide etc.
These are quite good as a temporary insulated surface to work/lay on, and are cheap enough to cut out an area for say a "hard" jacking point. They can be unzipped and stored easily as well.
Best
W
