Fuel Pump

[LH16v]

Good work!

I have read in the forum that a Walbro 255 pump gives a good kick in the backside"

Personally I am a bit sceptical about this happening on a F7P engine. Your old fuel pump was delivering the required amount of fuel...just happened to be noisy.

Did you replace the fuel filter? Is the return line ok?

 

[SR19]

yeah the fuel filter has been changed , return lines without cracks and in pretty good shape and the ppl that had this car before made the return line longer or at least thats what i think

have a look it looks like a garden hose but its nots just a longer return line..

 

[LH16v]

it looks like a garden hose but its nots just a longer return line..

Not 100% sure but maybe this has an affect on the pump. Maybe replacing the return line with a line of the same length as the orginal may help.

 

[SR19]

But everything is working just fine , when you get an uprated fuel pump the return lines should be longer then standart (at least thats what Chris H wrote in his "Efi fuel pump upgrade" ) im not sure if thats what he had in mind tho. Its taking less fuel at the mo then it used to with the old pump 7l/100km motorway ,12l/100km in town. so i think this is pretty good for an uprated fuel pump. If anyone has anything to say about this please speak your mind ! Specialy the pros of this forum , it looks like your ignoring me lol

 

[LH16v]

4 bolts hold the fuel tank on, the rear ones will probably have rusted and will just spin.

I have the same problem. I jacked the car up, gave the bolts a liberal spraying of WD40 then left them whilst I battled with the fuel filter bracket. Managed the get the bracket off but the fuel tank bolts just spin. I ran out of time today so will have another go at the weekend probably. Any suggestions on how to get the bolts off?

 

[Neal R19]

Spin em to destroy the cages (sounds like you've done this already) then rotate them to the position where the nut just passes through the hole

 

[The Black Cat]

Neal, He's on about the two bolts more to the sides of the tank which go into the members supporting the rear.

I know how I did it and would never recommend it but I cheated and cut them with the grinder, then put a new nut and bolt in. As I say I wouldn't advise anyone does it this way but that's how I did it.

 

[LH16v]

I thought that someone would mention a grinder.

I'm a bit nervous about using a grinder around the tank. Might cut them off with a hack saw.

 

[The Black Cat]

I thought that someone would mention a grinder.

I'm a bit nervous about using a grinder around the tank. Might cut them off with a hack saw.

Agreed, It will take a while and don't be tempted to use a junior hacksaw as all you will do is blunt the blade. I would try and get one of the 30cm ones in there, it was just prove awkward to get it on the right angle.

 

[LH16v]

Managed to get the bolts off in the end using a mixture of a hack saw and force. I have a few war wounds on my hands as a result but its all good.

Took the tank off and it had quite a bit of surface rust. I have now sanded the worst of the rust off and have painted the tank with anti rust paint. I am planning to put some stone chip paint on later.

I am just about to look at the pump itself but I have not yet removed it from its cradle. Quick question, what stops the electrics of the pump from sitting petrol? i.e. the connections from the top of the pump to the top of the cradle?