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Looking around on other forums - I'll not be flatting back just yet, I'll leave it to cure for a while before colour sanding. However I will be thinning out the paint as I go tonight, wish me luck - this is where it potentially gets tricky.
I shit you not, there is a guide to painting a car with a radiator roller! The end result is nearly undetectable from a professional job. 85% in prep, 5% in paint application and 10% in nibbing/paint correction
Might even let you loose on my engine bay when it's ready for paint in 2020, you have the equipment and by then you'll have the skills
I shit you not, there is a guide to painting a car with a radiator roller! The end result is nearly undetectable from a professional job. 85% in prep, 5% in paint application and 10% in nibbing/paint correction
Might even let you loose on my engine bay when it's ready for paint in 2020, you have the equipment and by then you'll have the skills
Last 4 coats gone on - pretty happy with the coverage - had 1 drop of paint drop onto the rear quarter as I was spraying the upper window which should flat / polish out and there is a very small reaction near the door handle, but again I think this will colour sand out without issue. I've ordered a
to help with the colour sanding.
Unfortunately - I'm not going to get to do this before the FCS, so that means putting it back together again and taking it apart again later - which is nice, but I don't want to rush this and get a good finish. I'm quietly optimistic I can do this and will be chuffed to bits if it comes off well.
Returned with 221bhp @ 24 psi, I was getting very good returns at lower boost settings, but as we cranked her up, the amount gained each time got smaller and smaller upto the point where it was getting a bit pointless. There are various things that could be looked at to make this even better, but to be honest, I love the way this drives at 18 psi so much, any more and it spoils it.
The new chargecooler / turbo set up works fantastic returning me no more than + 10 deg C no matter how hard I squeeze on the road.
Possibly, inlet manifold design, possibly at the end of flow with standard exhaust valves. Really don't know.
She drives so well now. You need to get Le Car mapped up there. It's so much more than the out and out power stuff as well. The transition, the cold start, the cruising, the down run etc, it's totally transformed the way the car drives, I don't think it was as good as when it rolled out of the garage. Chris' attitude to his customers and their requirements is 2nd to none, and he's so aware of all manor of matters when working on Fluffy that you know your in the best hands possible.
You spend months building it, and you think you've got it done, but until Chris does his stuff, you're only 10% done.
Sounds good, no not yet few more issues to sort, I'm sure the clutch has started to slip a little, as I'm only at 7psi and want more ill defo need it sorting first, means more spending and work to be done. Probably book in for august sometime once I know I can get a stronger unit in
Just as a side note - when pushing at 24 psi - we thought that the air filter may be causing restriction, so we conducted a back to back test. We found that with the air filter on, I had 4-5 more bhp than without. This was probably down to the fact that the air filter is an enclosed type .................
And air is ducted straight from the front of the car therefore dragging in only cool air as opposed to ..........................
Now looking ahead - I need to improve the handling of the car. I've always run standard strutts with 50mm lowered springs. I have a standard ph 1 setup on there at the moment which is scary. What are peoples opinions in respect for a good set-up for both fast road and occasional track day use???
I have got some -30mm springs as a compromise which I would like to use.
You swapped to phase 1 set up? Or did you mean 2? (Re suspension)
I was under the impression phase 1 was the better of the two, not only for the availability of new parts but gave better castor angles (might even have been toe, can't remember) over the phase two set up.
If you have got ph1 stuff stick with it but replace with a decent coil over which will give you the lower ride height and a certain amount of adjustment (depending on spec obviously), 50mm lowering springs will never be any good performance wise as the shock is not designed to run at that height, 35mm would be the better compromise between road/track with new shocks.
Depends on how much you want to spend really
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