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5 GT Turbo EFI - GT Turbo

I have five take-offs for manifold pressure (below throttle body), the 21 has five takeoffs conveniently!

-MAP sensor. Don't tee this with anything. You need a clean and fast reacting signal for the ECU, the quicker it reacts the less transient you need.
-Dump valve
-Fuel pressure reg
-Crankcase breather (inc 1-way valve & restrictor)
-MAP Boost gauge
NOTE: You will also need brake servo with 1-way valve, my 21 has electronic assist and doesnt have a servo.

I have another above the throttle body which splits out for
-Pre throttle boost gauge
-Wastegate control


When you start using WARI it's tricky learning the screens and how it all links together. When you get the hang of it it kinda clicks. There are some great screens built in to help you, like the F11 ECU Data window that I showed you yesterday and the Calculation trace window...that has been fantastic for me in setting up good idle and troubleshooting.
I also recommend you set up the two boost gauges, above and below the throttle. Its very educational watching the differences, and how the boost works around the throttle. They only ever match readings on heavy or full throttle. Use the OE dash one for above throttle if you like.
 
@Clarkey @DaveL485 - did you guys just use normal accelerator cable or did you change/upgrade at all?

@Clarkey i don't suppose you have some up close shots of your throttle cable mechanism ? I'm not sure the best way to set it up. Thanks in advance.
 
Not sure what I am going to do with the spare middle port ? @Woznaldo ?

Just block it off,

@Clarkey @DaveL485 - did you guys just use normal accelerator cable or did you change/upgrade at all?

@Clarkey i don't suppose you have some up close shots of your throttle cable mechanism ? I'm not sure the best way to set it up. Thanks in advance.

No shots of my accelerator cable, Its a normal cable just cut to size. My cables very short...30"
I am going to car tomorrow night so will try and get pics.
 
My cable goes from pedal to manifold bracket, holding it in place.
I drilled a bolt on throttle pedal, the cable goes through that and clamped , so I have what ever length I want.
 
image.webp image.webp image.webp image.webp

As you can see I have a slightly frayed throttle cable but think I have a spare somewhere. You can in the second picture a place to fix some kind of bracket in place to allow the cable to have a smooth and straight line to then be locked in place on throttle spindle.

I am just wondering what others have used as currently scratching my head a little.

Nothing is finished yet so excuse the mess. ;-)
 
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Seems straight forward enough...make a small curved tab to go under the nut and bolt to hold the sheath. Fit the curve to the sheath, if you use a flat tab you'll crush it. Basically attach the end of the sheath to that bit without squashing it.

Feed the wire through the TB linkage and then get a cable end thing like this.

01.webp
 
Next question - I've just been reminded there is an idle speed mixture screw near the TB/inlet. Any idea where it is ? I think @Clarkey got caught out on this at Scoffs? I'm praying it doesnt mean removing the inlet as a whole.
 
Next question - I've just been reminded there is an idle speed mixture screw near the TB/inlet. Any idea where it is ? I think @Clarkey got caught out on this at Scoffs? I'm praying it doesnt mean removing the inlet as a whole.

There will probably be a throttle return stop that adjusts the resting position of the butterfly. It wont affect mixture though thats all ECU config. If there is one it'll be around here, or the same on the opposite side.

01.webp

I dont think its all that important though because you will be setting up the idle control valve to do all this. You can even setit to add idle effort in when the revs drop down off throttle/coast so the rpm doesnt dip down and recover back (which used to annoy me before I figured it out).

The amount of config there is for idle control will twist your melon :)
 
I just took TB off, as you can see on mine there is a stop there but no screw to adjust as such. (Bottom two pics)

The top picture I've added shows a silver screw in another lads with the same TB.
image.webp image.webp image.webp

I can only assume Michael Tierney new I was using ISCV he didn't add a screw in, thoughts ?
 
image.webp image.webp image.webp It's too hot to do anymore today but I've been over to Forge Motorsport this afternoon and purchased a load of hoses. I've managed to properly fix header bracket in place, I'm leaving it to cure overnight before fixing in place properly.

I've fitted the relevant breather hoses and hose to brake servo at the rear of inlet. This time with the correct diameter hose, it looks much neater and should never leak like before.

I still need to figure out how to mount ISCV now I have the relevant hoses. Behind the scuttle is a bit awkward but by far the neatest place to mount.

I discovered a small issue where at 2.5 bar fuel leaks through the fuel gauge that threads into the side of the FPR which is strange as its a FuelLabs gauge for the particular FPR, I don't want to force it an tighten further, I wondering if it should have some kind of seal. Will investigate further.

I've ordered a steel hose connector so I can weld in the boss for inlet temp sensor. Should be here tomorrow.

I've also got to figure out a way to fix Ignition module above gearbox.

I've got a busy week work wise not so won't be back on it until Fri/Sat.
 
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Never mind, I can pull that off and screw underneath.
I was about to say...

I wondering if it should have some kind of seal
PTFE tape. Or Reinzosil, sparingly.

Coil pack i'd likely try and blank off the dizzy drive and secure it to that pedestal, otherwise i'd pull off the engine lift bracket on the front corner, weld a right angle platform to it and triangulate it to brace, and fit it on there so it sits over where the No1 lead fits the plug.
 
@DaveL485 @Clarkey - the two water inlets I'm guessing I can leave these open and don't need to block ?
Yep leave em open...or.... I wonder once its up and running if you could set it up with a cold water circuit and separate pump and rad like a motorbike rad or something and cool the manifold. The original idea was to warm the base of the carb to prevent carb freeze so its intended purpose is redundant with EFI but with it sat on top of the exhaust manifold, maybe a small cooling circuit would benefit.

I have no idea if it would or not but i'd like to see the results of experimentation :)
 
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