5 GT Turbo EFI - GT Turbo

[Clarkey]

@Clarkey - David, how did you attach your trigger wheel bracket ? Welded ? Do you have any pictures by chance so I can visualise what you have done?

The bracket bolts onto the timing chain cover, not welded......
Is there not a picture in my EFI thread ?

 

[Mark Davis]

I couldn't see a pic but that's great if it's bolt on. Much easier. Thanks.

 

[Andyquadra]

@Clarkey - David, how did you attach your trigger wheel bracket ? Welded ? Do you have any pictures by chance so I can visualise what you have done?

normally welded to the crank pulley

 

[Mark Davis]

The car failed MOT Saturday on 2 X front tyres. Turns out 888s don't last long.

Also rear wheel bearing. Just waiting on tyres to arrive today so I can go and get the retest sorted. I fitted new discs/bearings last night so it should pass now.

In the meantime this arrived from EFI Parts. Boost controller which looks to be better than the original one I had planned to use.

 

[DaveL485]

Boost controller which looks to be better than the original one I had planned to use.

Good choice. I could tell you how to wire this in, test it and set it up in about three minutes flat.

 

[Clarkey]

Good choice. I could tell you how to wire this in, test it and set it up in about three minutes flat.

Go on then as mines not working

 

[Mark Davis]

Car is booked for retest Saturday morning and then I'll be on the case Saturday afternoon. I'm aiming to have the car running within 2 weeks. Wish me luck !

 

[Mark Davis]

Renault C1J Crank angle bracket & wheel - EFI-Parts.co.uk: Connectors, Sensors, Trigger wheels, Wideband, Adaptronic, Zeitronix, AEM
"Note 1: It is strongly advised that you weld the original C1J pulley wheel to the crank-hub (the cast removable section that pushes on to the end of the crankshaft). It is possible for the pulley (and so trigger wheel) to slip otherwise over time. Further tack welding the trigger wheel to the pulley will ensure that it cannot move at all, but should not be essential.) "

@Clarkey - See link above and note regarding fixing trigger wheel. Did either of you actually weld the C1J pulley wheel to crank hub ? If so did you do this on the car or when engine was out? Just trying to get my head around what needs to be done and the best way to do it?

Anyone else have any recommendations ?
Cheers

 

[Clarkey]

Take the pulley and crank hub off,
Weld the pulley to crank hub and the new trigger wheel to the pulley so it's all one unit.

 

[Mark Davis]

Spot on, cheers @Clarkey

 

[Clarkey]

You can also see in the first picture , the bracket bolted up.

 

[Mark Davis]

You can also see in the first picture , the bracket bolted up.

Ah Yes, I didn't spot that before actually.

I am assuming I can remove crank hub and pulley with the engine still in place?

 

[Clarkey]

Yes you can.
A rattle gun will do the job nicely or you will have to lock the crank/flywheel.

 

[Mark Davis]

Perfect, thank you. Tomorrow is day one.

 

[Mark Davis]

Strip down complete. Next job is to sort trigger wheel. I also need to find a bracket for idle control valve (shouldn't be too hard) and drill a few holes in scuttle so I can move header tank.

Then it's just a simple job of putting the puzzle back together.

 

[Mark Davis]

@Clarkey @Brigsy - any idea what the safest way to lock flywheel in place is so I can remove pulley ?

 

[andybond]

@Clarkey @Brigsy - any idea what the safest way to lock flywheel in place is so I can remove pulley ?

Screwdriver wedged in the gearbox bell housing always worked for me.

 

[DaveL485]

@Clarkey @Brigsy - any idea what the safest way to lock flywheel in place is so I can remove pulley ?

Put it in gear and get someone to stand on the brake pedal, or if alone, jam screwdrivers in the disc vents and the calipers stop the wheels turning when you crack it off.

 

[DaveL485]

Go on then as mines not working

Wiring:
+12v ign live to one side of the MAC valve.
Other side to Adaptronic Aux Output (PWM capable so 1, 2 or 3)

Pipework:
Internal gate - Run from boost feed to MAC input, then MAC output to actuator
(External gate - Boost feed to T Piece, T1 to wastegate open port, T2 to MAC input then MAC output to wastegate close port.)

Config:
Aux Out > Aux 3 set to Type Wastegate and 25hz, PWM enabled (watermark covering checkbox below)



test by using the F11 window, Check Override, check Enable, then check AUX3 on and off and you should hear it click back and forth.



Then set up the effort in the wastegate tab. You'll want it high when coming on boost then drop it back as the turbo spools to full boost (RPM dependant).
Start LOW and ramp it up, the numbers here are random for example purposes. My 21 only needs 25 effort at higher rpm for example. Start with 10 and work up in 5's.

 

[DaveL485]

MAKE SURE YOUR OVERBOOST CUT IS CONFIGURED IN CASE YOU F*** IT UP.