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DaveL485
Staff member
I've run one of those for over a decade and 25,000 miles +. Hard as nails!
Just like every other one ever. If its not leaking it'll be fine.Cracked turbine housing
NathanH21
Active Member
If I'm going to go multiangle seats is it worth going 46mm inlet valves too? So far I have 2 ports pretty much the same as on the old head, smoothed out the casting joins, radiused the bottom of the port above the valve, smoothed the ceiling and removed material behind the guide. The chambers on the old head have had the 'lumps' removed... worth copying this/lowering the comp?
The crack propagates from the wastegate seat towards the centre of the housing and then 90 degrees towards the inlet flange.
The crack propagates from the wastegate seat towards the centre of the housing and then 90 degrees towards the inlet flange.
The seat cutting job is quick at the machine shop i would leave the valves as where are you going to stop?
It will improve all the low lift flow the std cam stops working at 5500rpm, the bottom end has also done 190k.
To make the most of the bigger valves you will then want a Cam which will then require a Ecu upgrade and so on.
It will improve all the low lift flow the std cam stops working at 5500rpm, the bottom end has also done 190k.
To make the most of the bigger valves you will then want a Cam which will then require a Ecu upgrade and so on.
NathanH21
Active Member
Not much progress as I've been putting a lot of over time in a time work. But I've managed to sort out two leaks.
Always seemed to have a steady brake fluid leak. Removed the reservoir and found the rear seal had perished and had also split around the bottom but this may have been made worse by me removing it. The other leak was from the oil cooler connection to the block. It wasn't very tight.
Badly painted the throttle inlet.
Got the proper tools for finished the porting.
Always seemed to have a steady brake fluid leak. Removed the reservoir and found the rear seal had perished and had also split around the bottom but this may have been made worse by me removing it. The other leak was from the oil cooler connection to the block. It wasn't very tight.
Badly painted the throttle inlet.
Got the proper tools for finished the porting.
NathanH21
Active Member
Not much to report. Had the oil cooler bracket powder coated and cleaned up everything else attached to it. Tested the aux pump to find it not working. A quick strip down revealed worn brushes so ordered a new pair (5x5x10mm fyi) at the cost of £2.20 delivered. Cleaned up the housing and commutator. Reassembled with a new O ring and now as good as new. In two minds as to replace the oil cooler or remove it. Found a replacement that has similar dimensions but it's £120. Removed some surface rust in the bay too.
Been working on the head when I can, so far the ports have been roughed out just need to give them another pass with some finer grit.
Been working on the head when I can, so far the ports have been roughed out just need to give them another pass with some finer grit.
DaveL485
Staff member
I've always wondered about this though, because in my head the engine oil warms faster than the water. It's inside the engine with the hot bits. How would that not heat faster than the water which is circulating in a cooler environment including through a mini radiator even before the 'stat opens?
D
Deleted member 486
The oil lags behind the coolant quite considerably in terms of warm up. The oil might be in direct contact with some warm bits, but the coolant it taking away the combustion heat from the block & the head (specifically around the combustion chamber) which are the really hot bits and so it gets warmed up much faster.
Looking through some test data from work on a project I did looking at splitting the oil volume in the sump in to two chambers, from 25°C to 60°C the coolant heats up at approximately 2.2x faster than the oil and from 60°C to 90°C it's about 1.5x times faster (that's comparing head out temp to gallery temperature - sump warm up is about half as slow again from cold). Now that is on an engine with an integrated exhaust manifold so that will help warm up from cold considerably but even at warmer temperature the coolant still warms up more quickly than the oil.
The oil cooler definitely helps with heating the oil up when it's cold - at Ford an experiment I was involved in worked out that it was worth about 0.5% fuel economy benefit over the tested drive cycle due to the faster warm up reducing the friction.
DaveL485
Staff member
Good info, thanks smartypants!
NathanH21
Active Member
Just to add I've not forgotten about the car! I kind of got distracted over the winter with a new interest. I bought a bike.
Started competing in Mablethorpe Sand racing. £200 worth of 1979 Suzuki SB200, made a few changes and threw it at the beach! The season runs from October to March every 2 weeks on a Sunday. Cheap fun Motorsport, plus 5 of my work colleagues take part too.
The car moved to a new location today hence my update. We towed it to my mates garage as its easier to work on there and it need some welding doing on it. Currently looks like this
Started competing in Mablethorpe Sand racing. £200 worth of 1979 Suzuki SB200, made a few changes and threw it at the beach! The season runs from October to March every 2 weeks on a Sunday. Cheap fun Motorsport, plus 5 of my work colleagues take part too.
The car moved to a new location today hence my update. We towed it to my mates garage as its easier to work on there and it need some welding doing on it. Currently looks like this
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