Clio mk3 central locking

[Norwich Nick]

The Clio has always been hit and miss when locking from the button on the key, unlocking had never been a problem. Tried a new a battery in the key and no change, put the main battery on its annual recon and it seemed to improve things but still far from reliable.

After standing for awhile the key now doesn’t unlock or lock unless pressed multiple times, like 20+. The button on the dash works fine.

Had a looking in the Haynes manual, seems it’s just the uch which controls the central locking, I expected to see a receiver in the system which could be on the blink.

So the questions are:
Have I miss read the Wiring diagram?
Is there a way of testing the key?

Figured the key might just be old and need replacing but I don’t want to buy a new key and it be the same if it’s a problem with the uch

 

[DaveL485]

@Red21 is your man for questions like this!

 

[Red21]

Yes the UCH controls the key locking via internal receiver, and No, unless you have some form of diag equipment.

I have to say this, but without proper diag and seeing if the UCH is receiving the key signal, the first thing to do is get a new genuine key from your local Renault dealer and get them to program it to the vehicle then you will know if anything else is wrong, especially if you only have one key.
The reason for a genuine key, is that many a time I have had to try and resolve a customer key problem where they have brought an ebay key or a key from a auto locksmith who have been unable to program the key for what ever reason or have messed the immobiliser system (and other ECUs that form it) so much, it has cost many times more than they tried to save, but there are also locksmiths who know what they are doing.
As for getting the dealer program the key, genuine keys when ordered start a three stage process on encoding.
The key is ordered by VIN from the assembly factory and this generates a partial key program code on the new key.
When the dealer codes the new key via Clip, the partial code is confirmed on the Renault server and a 16 digit hexadecimal is generated.
Once the 16 digit code is confirmed by both server & vehicle system the final programming can take place and its this part that non gen keys and diag equipment can mess things up.

A second bit of advice is to check the LHF foot well for water ingress and the large block connector for corroded wires etc as this can cause a multitude of lock issues or general electrical problems that seem like its a UCH fault.

 

[Turbell]

If you've got a sunroof, definitely check LHF foot well for water. Made my daughter's Clio act very strange, locking unlocking, battery drain.

 

[Norwich Nick]

@Red21 thank you for the reply, will check the points mentioned. I assumed there must be a way to check with the right equipment but half expected to be told it’ll either work or won’t type answer.

Agree it’s definitely better to use genuine in this instance. Guess that’s a job for when it’s taxed and insured

@Turbell Luckily no sunroof, no motivation either as I haven’t looked in that area yet, I remember asking you where it was when you were fixing your daughters car

 

[Mattjoss5]

@Red21 thank you for the reply, will check the points mentioned. I assumed there must be a way to check with the right equipment but half expected to be told it’ll either work or won’t type answer.

Agree it’s definitely better to use genuine in this instance. Guess that’s a job for when it’s taxed and insured

@Turbell Luckily no sunroof, no motivation either as I haven’t looked in that area yet, I remember asking you where it was when you were fixing your daughters car

Worth taking the key apart and checking the circuit board and if its the type the switch can break off also the battery connector inside the key

 

[Turbell]

Worth taking the key apart and checking the circuit board and if its the type the switch can break off also the battery connector inside the key

That's a good shout, i replaced key case on daughter's Clio ( buttons were shot ) and it took some fiddling about with the metal tang contacts to get it working every time, I've just done her spare key and she's told me that doesn't work, need car here to fiddle about whilst I try it .

 

[Norwich Nick]

So, in my typical speedy fashion, I still haven’t done anything with this.

@Mattjoss5 , I took it apart and gave it a good poke and a prod, as you suggested, which saw it work once on demand, so that was a good suggestion, thank you.

I did happen to go to a well known key cutting facility, I took the key with me and asked if they had a way of testing them. It turns out they do, would always work on the other buttons but lock wasn’t having any of it, without asking, he whipped it apart, had a fiddle and reassembled it. It then worked 100% of the time, even better there was no charge.

@Turbell He did suggest a new case as that would likely fix the slop causing the issue, so looks like they just need a fiddle every now and then.

I tested once home and it worked once in a row! Not a problem though as I’d rather have the £50 in my pocket as the Clio is currently being used as a shed. At least I know it’s a key issue rather than something more sinister.

 

[Leigh5t]

I had intermittent locking unlocking on my R26. Fiddling with the fob made a difference on that too. Although, I’m not sure the mk3 clio has the card type key like the Megane does it?
On the Meg I took the key apart and found the transmitter coil had a break in it somewhere. I unwound the stupidly thing gauge wire until I found the break and soldered it back to the board. Luckily the break was only about a metre of so in.

 

[Norwich Nick]

Nope, not a keycard, it’s an actual key with buttons. It’s 15 years old so can understand it failing, just not happy about it.

Well done on fixing your card though, I’d probably have melted it into a puddle of goop if I’d tried!