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It’s just one of those things. I’ve covered it in some absorbent granules/cat litter type stuff for now. To be honest, it’s less of a pain in the arse than the water leaking in!
I’m just surprised a Renault has held on to that much oil for all these years!
Saying that I wouldnt say use recommended oils anyway - old oil specs and tech. Use modern synthetics, 5w50 for engine for this era and 75w80 synthetic for gearbox. Note this is my personal preference, i'm sure others have other opinions!
Saying that I wouldnt say use recommended oils anyway - old oil specs and tech. Use modern synthetics, 5w50 for engine for this era and 75w80 synthetic for gearbox. Note this is my personal preference, i'm sure others have other opinions!
Modern, non hypoid, non bevel drive, use any thin Piss. The lighter the oil the longer the synchros last. ATF has enough EP properties to look after the gears. To be fair a good 75 synthetic would be a better technical solution.
There's no shearing forces to contend with so big EP number not reqired.
Modern, non hypoid, non bevel drive, use any thin Piss. The lighter the oil the longer the synchros last. ATF has enough EP properties to look after the gears. To be fair a good 75 synthetic would be a better technical solution.
There's no shearing forces to contend with so big EP number not reqired.
Thanks for this, Steve. When I get round to it, I’ll drop the remaining oil and refill with decent quality synthetic 75, as per yours and Dave’s recommendation. I’m pretty sure I’m going to drop the engine before it goes back on the road to give it a once over. Is there anything I should check with the gearbox too, whilst it’s out? Cheers.
If it was quiet and free shifting, then it should be fine. Probably worth doing the driveshaft oilseals (if they are easy to replace) and the shifter oilseal if there is any signs of leaks. That will be on the top of the box, so shouldn't leak anyway, one of the things they got right designwise on newer boxes is to put the holes above the oil level ....
If it was quiet and free shifting, then it should be fine. Probably worth doing the driveshaft oilseals (if they are easy to replace) and the shifter oilseal if there is any signs of leaks. That will be on the top of the box, so shouldn't leak anyway, one of the things they got right designwise on newer boxes is to put the holes above the oil level ....
I had a lovely original gearbox, but thought as I was going balls deep on my restoration I might as well have it rebuilt. The worst thing I have ever done. It now leaks and pisses me off. If it ain't broke...paint it and make it look nice
I've not done a proper update for about a month so here goes....
Floor flange prepped and painted
New inner sill made and tacked in place
Working my way between welds, trying to keep it from warping.
Welds dressed back
Now to clean up the front jacking point area, which initially looked bad.
Turned out ok In way better condition than the other side was.
Hydrate 80 for now and I'll come back to that.
A bit of prep work to the outer sill. To be honest, this sill was poor compared to the other, even though I bought them as a pair. I spent quite some time trying to improve it, and although it's still not great, it's passable....and hidden behind the kit.
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