There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

5 GT Turbo Another Red Renault 5 GT Turbo On It's Way Back To The Road

Gearbox oil sure has a distinctive aroma 😜, just a bit annoying but better now and fixed than on a decent run somewhere in the future 👍
Yes mate, it stinks!

It’s just one of those things. I’ve covered it in some absorbent granules/cat litter type stuff for now. To be honest, it’s less of a pain in the arse than the water leaking in!

I’m just surprised a Renault has held on to that much oil for all these years! 🤣
 
Thats Dexron III, autobox oil/power steering fluid. Use proper gearbox oil not that when you rebuild it.
Interesting. Are they interchangeable?Thanks for the tip though. I’ll make sure I fully drain it and replace with whatever is recommended 👍🏻.

Actually, maybe the car spat it out! 🤣
 
Are they interchangeable?
Not really. Will it work, yes, is it ideal, no!

Saying that I wouldnt say use recommended oils anyway - old oil specs and tech. Use modern synthetics, 5w50 for engine for this era and 75w80 synthetic for gearbox. Note this is my personal preference, i'm sure others have other opinions!
 
Not really. Will it work, yes, is it ideal, no!

Saying that I wouldnt say use recommended oils anyway - old oil specs and tech. Use modern synthetics, 5w50 for engine for this era and 75w80 synthetic for gearbox. Note this is my personal preference, i'm sure others have other opinions!
Great, thanks for the info. 👍🏻
 
Modern, non hypoid, non bevel drive, use any thin Piss. The lighter the oil the longer the synchros last. ATF has enough EP properties to look after the gears. To be fair a good 75 synthetic would be a better technical solution.
There's no shearing forces to contend with so big EP number not reqired.
 
Modern, non hypoid, non bevel drive, use any thin Piss. The lighter the oil the longer the synchros last. ATF has enough EP properties to look after the gears. To be fair a good 75 synthetic would be a better technical solution.
There's no shearing forces to contend with so big EP number not reqired.
Thanks for this, Steve. When I get round to it, I’ll drop the remaining oil and refill with decent quality synthetic 75, as per yours and Dave’s recommendation. I’m pretty sure I’m going to drop the engine before it goes back on the road to give it a once over. Is there anything I should check with the gearbox too, whilst it’s out? Cheers.
 
If it was quiet and free shifting, then it should be fine. Probably worth doing the driveshaft oilseals (if they are easy to replace) and the shifter oilseal if there is any signs of leaks. That will be on the top of the box, so shouldn't leak anyway, one of the things they got right designwise on newer boxes is to put the holes above the oil level ....
 
If it was quiet and free shifting, then it should be fine. Probably worth doing the driveshaft oilseals (if they are easy to replace) and the shifter oilseal if there is any signs of leaks. That will be on the top of the box, so shouldn't leak anyway, one of the things they got right designwise on newer boxes is to put the holes above the oil level ....
Selector seal is gearbox strip down to fit in jb/jc. Every one ive seen has leaked too, some drippers, some gushers 😆
 
I've not done a proper update for about a month so here goes....

Floor flange prepped and painted
IMG_4583.webp

New inner sill made and tacked in place
IMG_4585.webp
IMG_4586.webp
IMG_4591.webp
Working my way between welds, trying to keep it from warping.
IMG_4592.webp

IMG_4599.webp
IMG_4605.webp

Welds dressed back
IMG_4606.webp
IMG_4619.webp


Now to clean up the front jacking point area, which initially looked bad.
IMG_4623.webp
Turned out ok In way better condition than the other side was.
IMG_4627.webp
Hydrate 80 for now and I'll come back to that.
IMG_4628.webp

A bit of prep work to the outer sill. To be honest, this sill was poor compared to the other, even though I bought them as a pair. I spent quite some time trying to improve it, and although it's still not great, it's passable....and hidden behind the kit.

Marked out and cut
IMG_4653.webp
IMG_4657.webp
IMG_4655.webp

IMG_4648.webp
 
Back to the front jacking point

Primed & seam sealed. I reckon I went a bit heavy with the seam seal.
IMG_4734.webp

Coat of stone chip
IMG_4737.webp

Replaced this section between coats of paint
IMG_4804.webp
IMG_4805.webp
IMG_4811.webp

Right, after prepping the inside of it, the jacking point is ready to go on.
IMG_4818.webp

Welding upside down, on your back, with sod all room....is crap.
IMG_4839.webp
IMG_4840.webp

Welds cleaned up
IMG_4854.webp
IMG_4866.webp
IMG_4861.webp

Inner sill cleaned up
IMG_4878.webp
IMG_4879.webp

Hydrate everything
IMG_4886.webp
IMG_4889.webp
IMG_4890.webp

Almost ready for the outer sill.
 
Back
Top