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actuator setting

jonboy21t

Well-Known Member
Hi guys

Have booked my 21 in with Slark Racing Engineering on Mon 19th Sept to sort my actuator/overboost problem. Turbo Dynamics set it at 0.8 bar which I understand is too high. Has anyone got any idea what the correct setting is to allow me to plug the anal valve back in and lose my overboost problem?

Cheers, Jonno (157 - Lazy Southern area rep)!
 
i belive the actuator is set at 6 psi but sombody with more knowledge may correct me. The amel valve adjust's the boost so that the car runs 13.2 psi which i belive is standard boost pressure.
 
So the garage set the actuator to 6psi & I plug in the anal valve which adds 7psi or so which makes 13psi & then I can turn my bleed valve to reach 15psi - sorted.

I do hope it works

jonno
 
Ditch the bleed valve and get a manual boost controller, it will hold boost better and will spool the turbo up quicker, i have got a dawes device but there are others on the market.
 
What's a manual boost controller? is it located in the car? Does it work like a bleed valve but is adjustable on the move?

Sorry for all the questions I'm wet behind the ears regarding these sort of things!!

Jon
 
My understanding is:

A bleed valve works by reducing the amount of pressure that gets to the actuator thus the wastegate opens at a higher boost pressure (because the signal pressure is lower than the boost pressure).

The wastegate slowly opens, until it's fully open when you reach the desired pressure.

A boost controller works by not letting any signal pressure to the actuator until you get to the right pressure.

As a result, the wastegate opens (and only opens) as soon as the correct pressure is achieved, not gradually (as it does in standard cars and ones with bleed valves) as the pressure in the actuator rises.

Overall result is no waste boost pressure and you should achieve your maximum boost pressure sooner.

Is that correct??! lol

Joff
 
oh, and it goes inline to the actuator - same place as a bleed valve would go, except there's only two connectors (not three), as there's no boost to bleed off.

Joff
 
My current bleed valve only has pipe in & pipe out - no third pipe?? I've checked out the Dawes Devices web site & it all looks good, I might just have to get one once my actuator is sorted.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
Jon Cooke said:
My current bleed valve only has pipe in & pipe out - no third pipe?? I've checked out the Dawes Devices web site & it all looks good, I might just have to get one once my actuator is sorted.

Thanks again for all your help.

It will just vent the wasted boost. It doesnt need to go anywhere.

Joff
 
The dawes device is the dogs bollox better than any bleed valve www.dawesdevices.com i think, about 20 bucks get one from there some one on ebays sellin them for 45 quid
 
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