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2008 twingo gt running issue

clarky_gtt

Well-Known Member
My twingo since I've had it has had a rough and low idle. It's got progressively worse to the point I need to sort it out!

I have code read the dtcs and this is the results... DSC_2013.webp
By the looks of the misfire detected, would you say its time to change the injector on cylinder 4?

Or have a go at cheaper replacement of ignition parts like the coil pack, plugs and leads?

I don't fancy having to remove and replace a injector if it's thought to be ignition related and not fuel.

Thoughts?
 
possibly an injector, make sure it has no air leaks also as theres quite a few vac pipes on these as standard and some go brittle and crack. They are also sensitive to plugs, the coil pack sits under a point where the scuttle leaks and it sometimes runs into the end plug bore. Never done it myself but a fair few people say the throttle can get abit coked up so might need a clean
 
injector is a straight swap, you should be able to just check them with a multimeter first though. and no coding needed if you do swap them.
 
Yeah, that's what I usually do when I have coil pack issues

Is it easy enough to swap injector? I had a look the other night
Air filter inlet off, unplug fuel rail, unclip injectors, pull rail to access injectors.
 
I've got a set of injectors that I swapped out with the 250s. Let me know if you're stuck and I'll stick a couple in the post.

Also, mine was a twat to initially get the injectors and rail off. Been on for 12 years I suppose. Otherwise straightforward getting to them etc
 
I've got a set of injectors that I swapped out with the 250s. Let me know if you're stuck and I'll stick a couple in the post.

Also, mine was a twat to initially get the injectors and rail off. Been on for 12 years I suppose. Otherwise straightforward getting to them etc
That would be awesome matey, also any hints and tips how to do it would be great. I'm hardly familiar with the car as I never lift the bonnet!
 
Before going to town and swapping injectors, just unplug one at a time to see if it has any effect on the way the car is running. If it is and injector, you should unplug one and there will be no change.

From memory...

Airbox inlet pipe out the way, vac pipes and breathers that run along the top of the inlet manifold can be disconnected and pushed to the side.

Remove the oil filler tube. I disconnected the fuel supply from the fuel rail too.

Two 10mm bolts on the underside of the manifold hold the rail in place.

Disconnect the injector loom, off each injector.

Should get to the stage where the rail is sitting on it's own. I removed each injector clip to release it from the rail, pulled the rail off (it was proper tight on mine). Then got a length of 1.5mm single core cable, wrapped it round an injector to help pull it from the manifold.

I had all my injectors out, so refitted them to the rail, then fitted the rail and injectors to the manifold. Cleaned the seals up and refitted with a little bit of grease.
 
Thanks fella. The problem is only noticed at idle, you can hear the misfire, and it idles between 650-850rpm. It drives fine through the rev range under acceleration. The engine management light only illuminates if left to idle for say 5 mins, then I code read it and get the above codes.

II'll have a go at trying to unplug #4 injector at idle and see how we go.

Appreciate the help and maybe taping you up for a injector yet!
 
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