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Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
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You have to try it and see. My 1550 was 11.8:1 with a 320 degree cam compressions were 200-205 psi. That's as far as you go. get above 215 and petrol is not really the right fuel anymore.
The Twinchoke and manifold will hold the flow back a fair bit with 2 90 degree bends in the inlet.
Thing is if you just fitted the turbo you wouldn't need to do anything else really..........
 
I was asked a while back if I wanted to be in a a YouTube video, with the car constantly being worked on it wasn't always on the road and available. Things aligned last week though and Will from Resto Revival popped down and we had a little chat.

 
Little update on the interior of the car. Gone for an 8 ball gear knob (matches the name and the 8's on the outside), ended up drilling it to suit and then using some epoxy resin to fit it in place. Happy with that.

Also managed to bag some Alcantara covered dash trims and top. Covered by cobra seats for a friends car but he opted not to fit them. Dark grey with silver stitching.

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That's looking good. You'll need to get a cam, modify it and it's drive, possibly followers. It's all easy enough to do and the bits are available. I wouldn't use the carb or turbo. Easier to use Gtt bits, with intercooling has real potential to send the Diff planet wheels into orbit....
 
Defo got a few bits I need to hunt down and modify. Keeping it draw through keeps the fuelling side simple for now. Much past this setup and i think ill be into the realms of paying you big bucks for a decent box for it. I enjoy the tinkering though so it gives me something to do once this is slapped together.
 
Hi Adey,
That seems like a good haul of turbo parts for your next project upgrade, you mentioned that you may also upgrade to an electric water pump, but if you remove the std Turbo head end blanking plate, it reveals 90% R8 water porting and 100% R8 tapped fixing holes.
We have been modifying the R5G heads to take the std R8 rear engine pump for many decades, all that is needed is a piece of 6mm alloy angle added to form the missing water port wall [some use Belzona to form the wall] it will then all be exactly the same as std R8. The opposite end requires for the machining away of the port wall at the original R5 w pump and then fit a std R8 Blanking plate.
I use the same head on my 1700 atmo engine as it has bronze valve guides [ it comes std with sodium filled ex valves as well for turbo use only]
Hope this helps
Dave
 
A good hall of parts but the draw through carb was the gd turbos down fall , best conversion as Steve Swan has said is to go gt turbo blow through and still simple to set up , Good luck and will keep following . Ps when you said about removing the rear seat and having the turbo inside the car have you been watching a certain you tube video :)
 
Hi Adey,
That seems like a good haul of turbo parts for your next project upgrade, you mentioned that you may also upgrade to an electric water pump, but if you remove the std Turbo head end blanking plate, it reveals 90% R8 water porting and 100% R8 tapped fixing holes.
We have been modifying the R5G heads to take the std R8 rear engine pump for many decades, all that is needed is a piece of 6mm alloy angle added to form the missing water port wall [some use Belzona to form the wall] it will then all be exactly the same as std R8. The opposite end requires for the machining away of the port wall at the original R5 w pump and then fit a std R8 Blanking plate.
I use the same head on my 1700 atmo engine as it has bronze valve guides [ it comes std with sodium filled ex valves as well for turbo use only]
Hope this helps
Dave

Thats some great info cheers
 
A good hall of parts but the draw through carb was the gd turbos down fall , best conversion as Steve Swan has said is to go gt turbo blow through and still simple to set up , Good luck and will keep following . Ps when you said about removing the rear seat and having the turbo inside the car have you been watching a certain you tube video :)

Im not looking for mad power, the setup itself will be an upgrade over what i have. gives me tinker time though, ill prob get it all on, do 100 miles then upgrade again. never stops
 
Crossflow head looks epic.

Wouldnt bother though @Adey unless you want loads of power. You will need cam, pistons, etc to suit if using current engine. Its quite a chunk of work.

Stick a cast manifold on your current one and send it. Large turbo with low boost to keep the box happy.
 
Its more for fun. Didn't think about pistons...

dont mind a cam swap though. Slap it on a lathe and make it suit.

Oem cast manifold sticks the turbo in the back seat area so both would need a diy manifold.
 
Lot of work to be fair mate.

I think Paul E got away with a stock manifold on his originally. Other option could be adaptor on campus manifold to keep it central.
 
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