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Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
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That'll work fine I would check the orientation of the carb with a pic from an 8s to see if it's the same way round. The throttle spindle should be in line with the crankshaft, but the main jet should only have fuel flowing away from it under braking. It should not be affected when going right,left or accelerating. Not everyone thinks of this..

Spindles are in line, I've not stripped one of these carbs to check internal orientation but will probably take a look in the future (y)
 
It's correct on the GTT, but when you turn the engine 90 degrees you need to re-orientate the carb which means the spindle is across the crank and not in line with it. If this is an issue on @Adey s car he could use a 5/12 TS carb or an 8s carb. There's always a way.
 
It's correct on the GTT, but when you turn the engine 90 degrees you need to re-orientate the carb which means the spindle is across the crank and not in line with it. If this is an issue on @Adey s car he could use a 5/12 TS carb or an 8s carb. There's always a way.
I was agreeing with you. The float chamber needs to be in front of the venturi in the direction of travel. 🙂
 
Can you see where the float chamber is on the twinchoke. I can't clearly make it out. Must be more compact than on older carbs. Have you any idea why the spindle should be in line with the crank? It is mentioned in the Weber tuning manual, but no reason is given. My best guess would be something to do with mixture distribution on an inline engine.
 
Pics seem to show the float chamber being either side of (surrounding) one of the inlets. None of the French converted ones ive read up on seem to change the orientation of the carb, just the level of it. Only way to see is try and go from there.

32_DRT_float.webp
 
It's a wraparound job, possibly makes it less likely to surge issues??? Only one way to find out. Is it a Full mechanical linkage on both barrels, or Vacuum secondary?
 
Looks to be fully mechanical, throttle opens one side so far, and then as you actuate it further the second butterfly opens up.
 
Interesting this carb orientation and manifolding angle issue , both my standard 60bhp R8S cars had the usual 32 DIR Weber carb with the 2 spindles parallel to the engine crank centreline, and the fuel bowl located at the flywheel end, both spindles progressive linkages were facing the Water pump end.
I however used a Weber 28/36DCD carb from a Cortina 1500GT, on my hot Sacco 904cc unit for the 4CV Le Mans replica, these carbs are universal and can be jetted for most size engines, I used Imp Sport Chokes and jets with success on an Autobleu 4 into 1 branch with big bore pipe. These carbs are about on ebay in used condition as they are still popular for Minis and Fords and are well supported by yje Carb specialists i.e Fast Road Cars.
Regarding the manifolds being at an angle to the horizontal, I have a FWD uninspected 1108cc unit with sloping manifolds in stock and I may fit it into the Dauphine instead of the usual R5Gordini Crossflow unit which everyone seems to fit these days. Seeing that posted adaptor block solution to level the carb off, I might further reconsider using this motor. Saying that Salv is sorting a cam for my Volvo 1397cc unit, which is also earmarked for the Dauphine, thankfully its all vertical and its 32DIR carb is horizontal and is rated at between 71-75bhp according to the tech info on line, so hopefully an R10 1300 std box will cope with it. This motor looks like an R8S/R12TS unit at a glance.
Cheers
W
 
Went outside to do a 10min job on the Clio but ended up having the wrong part, so onto another quick job. Pull the engine out of the r8...

A few more bits were disconnected and then its a pretty easy thing to remove. Hoisted out of the way with ease, need to get in there with a jet washer at some point as its a little oily under there. Next up is to tackle the gearbox bell housing and input shaft swap....

20241027_105751(0).webp20241027_105755.webp20241027_111206.webp20241027_113632.webp

20241027_113635.webp
 
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When you've drained the gearbox take the Bellhousing off 4xm10 and 6xm8 plus the clutch cable tube nut. Then you'll need to take off the drivers side gearbox sidemount. Personally I would take this opportunity to get rid of the fuel tank, but scrubbing round that you'll need to drill a hole in the sidecase to punch the input shaft rollpin out.

J Turner 330 (1).webp

you'll see the extra plug fitted at 1-2o'clock position. I drill 1/8 BSP coz it's an old work size, but M10 is something you will probably have to hand. You'll need a long punch to punch the pin out 4mm a piece of silver steel bar would be ideal. You start the pin in the coupling of the new input shaft (I think that was how I sent it) and slide on and drive home, refit the bellhousing and it's done.
 
Remember to fit the new oil seal, oil it all over before fitting, much easier and a little grease on the running area prevents it catching on startup.
 
Awesome tips cheers Steve. I have a length of silver steel here on your recommendation previously (y) hopefully ill take a look at it over the next week or weekend.
 
Hi All,
Progress! your photo of the 2 engines clearly illustrates the later block camshaft oil bath upgrade, from the earlier engine design, i.e.just behind where the cam sprocket lives.
Don't forget to carefully capture the swarf from the drilling and tapping process of the new access plug hole.
Best
Dave
 
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