There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Alpine 1968 Renault R8

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adey
  • Start date Start date
  • Featured
When the bush arrives, soak it in engine oil for a couple of weeks, it will last much longer. It's a porous material and will absorb an amazing amount of oil given the chance. The shaft and oil seal should be with you today or tomorrow.
Just like vapour blasted ally bits, like inlet manifolds - rub in a few coats of WD40 and it stops it corroding for much much longer.
 
Not much has happened with this at all. Managed to get a flywheel of the dimensions requested by @Steve Swan (apologies I haven't gotten around to posting back to you). I gave it a clean off, measured the friction face at 181mm to confirm it was the one I wanted then rummaged through my bolts drawer to find some flywheel bolts. Gave them a clean, some fresh loctite, fitted and torqued them up. Now waiting on a new clutch to arrive and we aren't far off needing to get the old engine out! New/old engine needs a clean up but I'm not to fussed by it looking show standard, just working is fine by me, I will get the rocker cover painted though.

On a side note, its not a good idea to let the flywheel fall off the engine and onto your pinky on the floor, even from a low height, a few kgs and a tooth edge does a decent amount of damage...

20241015_191004.webp20241015_190950.webp20241015_161325.webp
 
I'll tell you how this might go. If this new motor works good then the car will be a lot quicker, but that highlights how low geared it is. If you sort that out, it looses a bit of acceleration for want of more power, so you sort that out, then find the brakes are dead after the third hard deceleration from say 90, so you sort that and change the springs and dampers and find out you can have a three quarter ton go cart for just adding a quick rack and LSD.............
 
Clutch has arrived so crank bushing put in and clutch fitted. I think next up i should start pulling the old engine so can swap over the parts i need to keep (pump alternator water pump ect). Need to clear some space in the garage though, it's stacked with parts and a complete mess.

20241019_110329.webp20241019_110401.webp
 
Remember that the carb Will need to be flat and the main jet will need to be pointing the right way or it will run out of petrol going round roundabouts. May need a carb and inlet manifold swap.
 
Started on the rip out, absolutely love the simplicity of working on these. Rad panel out and you have all the space in the world. Removed the hoses whipped the water pump off and the alternator out. Cleaned up and fitted the pump to the 1397 with a fresh gasket. Need to make a spacer up for the alternator but I can get away with shaving the spacer I made for the old engine, seems to be about 1mm of extra meat on the block compared to the old engine. Give it a week or 2 (and some good weather aligning with free time) and I hope to have it swapped over. Then the harder more intricate bits (manifold adapter and such) can be worked on.


20241019_154850.webp
20241019_160219.webp20241019_163115.webp
 
Last edited:
That'll work fine I would check the orientation of the carb with a pic from an 8s to see if it's the same way round. The throttle spindle should be in line with the crankshaft, but the main jet should only have fuel flowing away from it under braking. It should not be affected when going right,left or accelerating. Not everyone thinks of this..
 
Back
Top