And you buddy, RRG is one of the 2 bigger meets for TR. Attendance wasn't the best this year vs previous but still good. Will push it again next year, I want to try and get along for the whole weekend if I can.
Hi Adey,
Good to see that your project R8 is giving you some driving pleasure now, and having read your recent threads regarding the temperature light and loose rear hub, in my 50 odd years of experience with these cars, its the factory design rear wheel bearings which are not very good, they did add another ball bearing into the Meca parts ones, but wheel play is always present as the half shaft is steadied at the box end by the splined universal joints, and the sun wheels in the diff, each of these components has generous clearances from new and mileage does not help.
If you do replace the std bearing with a new one, the half shaft can still be wobbled with your fingers at the box end within the axle tube due to the machined bearing clearances for heat expansion etc.
There is now a kit available to add a double row high angular contact bearing in a new housing, which is from a FWD car, hence zero play at the wheel results.
The R8 has as I mentioned a few messages ago has a tapered cone washer and fairly big splines on the half shaft , when the large castellated nut is loose it galls the hub taper and the cone, effectively machining away the metal faces, its scrap. I would source another std R8 hub ,shaft and cone combo and replace the damaged parts.
As you can appreciate when using 7" wide rear wheels like I do on my Comp Car,this extra stress on the hub can pop up as an annoying grounching sound, but tightening up the big nut is only a short term quick fix, this usually throws up another issue with the split pin, as usually aligning the hole in the end of the threaded shaft with a gap in the castellated nut may require for shims to be added behind the nut, its trial and error. It might be worth also considering using Loctite Bearing Fit on the splines during reassembly.
Regarding the warning light coming on, this is a fed from the thermo switch bolted to the rear of the head, its either on or off, its not a conventional water temperature sender, you will need to tap the water pump between the heater hose spigots [M18] and fit a sender, the R8G has this as std. Also a dash mounted matching water temp gauge.
Cheers
Dave