Alpine 1968 Renault R8

[Steve Swan]

Great to see your back up and running i may know were there is a 1289cc engine if its still available but was out of a dacia so unsure if its the later larger flywheel type

All 1300 are Big crank Engines , only exception was the 812 which you won't find in a hurry, as it was only fitted to R8G and A110 1300 G and S models.

 

[Wheelers Workshop]

All 1300 are Big crank Engines , only exception was the 812 which you won't find in a hurry, as it was only fitted to R8G and A110 1300 G and S models.

Hi Adey,
Regarding the much healded proposed upgrade 1397cc unit for your R8, have you considered the later Volvo 340/353 1397cc unit, its has a nice bigger twin choke Weber 32DIR carb and good looking siamesed inlet ports, the cast iron exhaust manifold has a semi 4 branch sweep to it as well, before it becomes a steel pair of tubes, good valve sizes and is rated at 75BHP, its like a big R8S engine, but is a flat topped piston version of the R5G 1397cc Block [ naturally not a crossflow head] It also has the "R8" crossmember 2 cast bosses and integral alternator bolt hole, apart from its massive flywheel, which will swop over to a R5G 180 d clutch system, its a direct swop, with your 1300 bellhousing parts, the Dizzy and fuel pump also as R8 , The R8 waterpump will swap over and the crank pulley.
From memory Salv tuned John Bennet's R8 trails car to be a torquey version to over 90 bhp with a 40DCOE, 4 Branch, and his Cam grind.
Cheers
Dave
p.s Be aware that later 1397cc blocks have course threaded bolts attaching the little support X member, while R8 has a fine thread pitch.

 

[Adey]

I've only completed a grand total of 8 miles since fitting the engine so the aim this coming week is to run it to work a few times. That said it seems to run sweet and idle smoothly. Should be good for the 100 mile run up to Mallory Park for RRG

I gave it a wash and wax today to try and make it pretty and a touch more presentable for the event. It's been a while so the old flat paint was starting to look white and patchy. A coating of wax has made it "pop" a little more. Found a little more rust (floor pan) that will need attention but I'll get that's sorted later in the year.

Before


can see the front wing was still patchy vs the doors that had been waxed


part way through the roof


And done. I will give the brightwork a wipe down in the week



Can't polish a turn but you can roll it in glitter

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Hi Adey,
Regarding the much healded proposed upgrade 1397cc unit for your R8, have you considered the later Volvo 340/353 1397cc unit, its has a nice bigger twin choke Weber 32DIR carb and good looking siamesed inlet ports, the cast iron exhaust manifold has a semi 4 branch sweep to it as well, before it becomes a steel pair of tubes, good valve sizes and is rated at 75BHP, its like a big R8S engine, but is a flat topped piston version of the R5G 1397cc Block [ naturally not a crossflow head] It also has the "R8" crossmember 2 cast bosses and integral alternator bolt hole, apart from its massive flywheel, which will swop over to a R5G 180 d clutch system, its a direct swop, with your 1300 bellhousing parts, the Dizzy and fuel pump also as R8 , The R8 waterpump will swap over and the crank pulley.
From memory Salv tuned John Bennet's R8 trails car to be a torquey version to over 90 bhp with a 40DCOE, 4 Branch, and his Cam grind.
Cheers
Dave
p.s Be aware that later 1397cc blocks have course threaded bolts attaching the little support X member, while R8 has a fine thread pitch.

@Adey theres a big Volvo Breakers yard along the side of the A1 in Wyboston, reckon they might have one of those engines kicking about..!?

LAKES 4 VOLVO

all aspects of Volvo car maintenance and repairs.

lakes4volvo.co.uk

 

[Adey]

Banged 20 miles on her today, smooth sailing and eager to move. This engine is a chunk better than the last one so far. I'll give it a few more runs this week and maybe reset the tapits.

What are people's thoughts on re torquing the head? Or should I just leave it?

Bled the coolant again just to make sure it was all good

 

[Steve Swan]

If you've had the head off this re-torque it. if you have not touched it. I'd leave alone...........

 

[Mattjoss5]

All 1300 are Big crank Engines , only exception was the 812 which you won't find in a hurry, as it was only fitted to R8G and A110 1300 G and S models.

Thats funny as i have a 1289 in mine from a renault 15 gtl bolted straight in as does the early reanault 12 1289cc engine

 

[Steve Swan]

But only if your 8 is a later car

 

[Adey]

Made it to work and back with no dramas on Wednesday , gave it a squirt upto 70mph on the way home too.... which gets a little scary lol. Its super happy bimbling along at 50 though. Gave it a once over and all still seems ok. Car is now ready to head to Retro Rides Gathering this weekend. Looks to be 90 miles each way for me, so itll be a proper run out for the car. Hope to see some of you there.

 

[Steve Swan]

It'll be fine..... It's the big wheels and low ride that's causing the uncertainty at speed. It looks cool, but from a technical standpoint it doesn't work. It's not got enough power to get you in bother, so just send it
By the by pm me your address and I'll sort out an input shaft. Just need to finish this Landy off.

 

[Adey]

I don't think the poor alignment helps either.... mixed in with all the old bushing and stuff . Still waiting for the track rod kit to become available from arnaud ventoux

 

[Adey]

VAG part 823419811
Renault part 7701461010

Post in thread 'Adey's Skimlinks'

Aug 10, 2024

Steering Rod Assembly fits RENAULT R6 118 1.1 78 to 80 688.10 QH 7701461010 New | eBay

Cone Size 12 mm. RENAULT 4 (112_) 0.8 (1123) Hatchback Petrol 06/1978 09/1983 FWD 8 26 19. RENAULT 4 (112_) 0.8 (1123) Hatchback Petrol 10/1983 10/1988 FWD 8 29 21. RENAULT 4 (112_) 0.8 (1123) Hatchback Petrol 06/1978 12/1988 FWD 8 34 25.

www.ebay.co.uk

...

• Adey

• 

So I have been doing some research after my previous post back to Steve regarding the alignment. I've been wanting to swap out to a more modern adjustable track rods and ends. There are kits on the market but are either out of stock, and the ones that are cost a chunk when factoring in shipping to the UK. Not a problem, I was actually about to order when I thought id search for a more PMT/DIY approach. As per, the French guys have all the parts listed and its just a case of ordering the correct bits. Ive ordered some r4/r5/r6 inner track rods and some audi 50 track rod ends, there may be some slight modification needed to the thread length but for about £55 all in instead of nearing £200 ill give it a go.

Should allow for some better adjustment at the front end of the car. Tempted to start looking at some decent shocks soon, got some ideas on that too

I am having silly ideas about just straight chopping the front and rear off it and having a tube setup made, can design it to run with any front suspension and brake setup and any engine setup at the back.... bit extreme that though, more a dream idea (rear mounted 1.8t or PD on a flipped audi a4/vw passat gearbox would be fun though)

 

[Steve Swan]

As long as the taper on the TRE. Is correct, everything else is easy to do. Just a case of cutting down and extending the threads. Mecaparts Gr4 short springs for the A110 are not a bad place to start, I would go harder at the front, but you'd have to get them custom made and if you got your sums wrong on fitted length, you'd have to get more made, which becomes cost prohibitive. Standard R8 are 300 front and 250 rear. Mecaparts Gr4 are about 550/600 front and 350 rear. Much better.

 

[Adey]

What a run out and weekend. The car did its thing and did nearly 200miles with no issues (well nothing that stopped it running) super comfy and compliant on the flat, the wife didn't complain, only when on really bad roads does the height become an issue. The constant slight correction on the steering is a little tiresome but im hoping with the tracking sorted after adding the more modern adjustment that will go away.

Anyway we headed up in the sat to RRG to a little air bnb around the back of the circuit, meaning I had a 3 min trundle to the track on the Sunday, spent longer getting in mind... was great to catch up with all the usuals and some new people. The 8 ended up being awarded the "different" award for the whole show. Ill take that, not won an award a a show before so chuffed

Only things to note are a rotational/slight grinding noise from the rear right, seems to happen when hot or after driving some miles. And only noticeable at slow speed. Ill whip it all off and take a look. Could be a calliper hanging on but the wheel wasn't any warmer than the other when I got home. I think I may need a new temperature sensor too. It brought the light on the way home. When checking everything at the side of the road, there wasn't anything to suggest it was hot or over heating, I carried on home with the light on for 60 miles no issues. I'm still yet to go check her over this morning to see if there's anything obvious going on.

Anyway, thoroughly enjoyed driving it despite a very sweaty ass due to the heat

 

[Steve Swan]

Nice one. Noise would seem like a brake, a bearing would be there all the time. Steering correction is bumpsteer, it can also make the cars attitude change slightly on the way in and on the exit of corners. All cureable tho..

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Delighted to see this cool collection of spares awarded a prize at the show!

 

[Adey]

anything easy I can do when I'm in there swapping the track rod ends Steve? move the steering rack?

 

[Adey]

So I had a quick look over the rear wheel and hub. Couldn't see anything dragging or touching. Not sure if I felt some play in the bearing... the shaft/hub nut, though it had a split pin in, seemed loose to me. Checked the manual and it called for 145ftlb, defo wasn't there as moved it with my hand holding the disc and a ratchet. Not driven it yet to see if there's an improvement. Bled the rear brakes whilst there, got some extra bubbles out. In my mind I'm thinking of just going around all 4 corners and replacing the bearings.

Also been googling AMR500 superchargers. I blame @Nick Kettle

 

[Mattjoss5]

So I had a quick look over the rear wheel and hub. Couldn't see anything dragging or touching. Not sure if I felt some play in the bearing... the shaft/hub nut, though it had a split pin in, seemed loose to me. Checked the manual and it called for 145ftlb, defo wasn't there as moved it with my hand holding the disc and a ratchet. Not driven it yet to see if there's an improvement. Bled the rear brakes whilst there, got some extra bubbles out. In my mind I'm thinking of just going around all 4 corners and replacing the bearings.

Also been googling AMR500 superchargers. I blame @Nick Kettle

Rear bearing play is common apparently from those i have spoken too , did put new bearings in mine but made no difference , apparently wear on the inner joint causes it , maybe Steve Swan has experienced this ? Great to meet up with you on sunday

 

[Renny 5]

great seeing you again Adey, well chuffed you won an award. hopefully RRG will turn into a thing for us lot, been great last few years.