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Waterless coolant

E30 M3

New Member
As these vees are used as a daily car has anyone swapped there water/antifreeze mix for a waterless coolant?!

I’ve wondered this for a while as it would help against corrosion has anyone used this method?
 
Well I came across this website! I’ve bought parts of here before! Don’t seem like it’s cheap but after watching couple jay Lenos videos! it’s something you do once and never needs changing again!! Could save the water pump so that may not need to be replaced but videos don’t say about that!

Just wonder what damage is being done while the cars is being sat not used!

http://race.parts/Catalogue/Fluids-Lubr ... ss-Coolant

Videos,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KRLXKW2ph0w
 
Thank you.

If I'm not mistaken you need 15 L of fluid in the Clio's cooling system.
Grand totalt will be north of £ 150.
 
I have used Evans Power Cool (in both Vees) for the last 5 years. Not cheap, but it is a one time expense. Need to ensure the system is flushed out completely before filling it with this product to ensure that any rust and/or contaminants are completely flushed out.

Had a lengthy discussion with the manufacturers before deciding to go down this route. Going on track at Goodwood, over 3 years, and many road trips, kept temps well under control, so no issues there.

Speak to Scott (SGM).
 
£150 against regular fluid changes is pretty bonkers if you ask me. I work with all manner of water additives that go through regular heat cycles between -15 to plus 150 degrees C and have never found one that didn't want changing after a few years. "Lifetime this and that" equals total b0llocks and sales talk as far as I have ever found out. As for saving a water pumps that is laughable. The coolant will have no effect on bearing and seal life. Which is also quite funny as any decent mechanic will always change the water pump during a belt change so a product that boasts it will out last the engine is pretty pointless as it'll be drained every few years. As for cooling the engine better than normal water and antifreeze I wouldn't know. Never ever had a heat issue in mine during its 40 thousand miles of hard driving.
 
I run it in one of my cars and am about to convert another. The pro's and con's as I understand them to be are:

Con's
1) Heat transfer isn't quite as good with the Evans glycol coolant as for water/antifreeze/coolant. Water has the best heat transfer properties. It is normal for you engine to run a couple of degrees hotter with the waterless coolant, but that is unlikely to be a problem in any engine, and in some, it may actually help.
2) It's expensive, however over time, should be cheaper as it lasts so long, especially if you factor in the cost savings associated with 1) and 3) below

Pro's
1) The biggest one IMO is that it is completely electrically non conductive unlike normal water/antifreeze. Some cars, especially classics with a mix of metals in the engine and the odd electrical gremlin/short circuit can suffer from electrolytic/galvanic corrosion.
2) It is non toxic. Untold damage has already been done to the environment by people improperly disposing of traditional antifreeze mix, which is horrendously dangerous and a small amount if it gets into a water body such as a river or lake can cause a huge amount of damage.
3) Higher boiling point (160 degrees?). Goodbye steam pockets and cracked aluminium heads caused by trapped air in the system.
4) You can drain it during water pump changes and put it back in the engine, so it can last the lifetime of the engine, but you may need to top it up a little depending on how well sealed your system is and evaporation from the radiator overflow tank.
 
Taking a fluid out of an engine and putting it back in........lmao.

We are talking about an all alloy, pretty modern designed engine for the clio not an aging coventry climax. By the time any noticable corrosion will have surfaced and caused problems the engine will be clocking 200k+ miles atleast. And at that point, cylinder heads are probably going to want a good going over anyway let alone the rest of the engine. Infact, i'll take a picture of an abused 190k mile L7X head and block which I believe see a fair bit of water only action. Its not that bad.
Regarding the lifetime limit of the product, its probably the exact same shpeil certain manufactures were/are told about transmission fluids and other non servicable products. Take a peak how many of those go sh1t street on the used car market because they were "fit and forget".

Regarding the environmental effects of your typical glycol antifreeze mix, yes its pretty bad for waterways but ducks can still swim in the winter and kids won't fall through the ice.
 
I agree with oldskoolbaby, waste of money.

Water has the best latent heat absorption, and with modern coolant corrosion just doesn't happen like it used to. Also if I have a system issue while out and about I want to be able to top it up with whatever I have to hand if I can patch it up... anything from a bottle of Vittel to a service station tap to stream water (and I have used all three in the past lol). You can't do that with the waterless stuff, you're stranded.

There is no benefit that I see that warrants the enormous cost, assuming your car and its cooling system is in good order and it works like it should.
 
I was once told [and no evidence either way so..].... that a classic car owner, who happened to be a chemist, carried out some lab tests on the stuff.

His conclusion?... "snake oil" and it was actually a pure form of anti-freeze.

But I repeat that, personally, I have no evidence or opinion either way.
 
I wonder what pure Glycol would do? I hate dealing with the stuff but can get it cheaper than a tenner a liter in bulk. Lol
 
Oldskoolbaby":2tir8v7f said:
Taking a fluid out of an engine and putting it back in........lmao.

Only reason this is not done on conventional coolant is that it loses its cooling and corrosion inhibiting properties over time. Evans doesn't.

Hey, I'm no sales person for this stuff just trying to add to the debate.
 
Another pro I forgot to mention is that it runs at much lower pressures than normal coolant.

It's definitely not the solution for everything out there. Wouldn't run it in my race car. Spillages on track are akin to oil as its pretty slippy stuff. Also electric pumps etc have to work harder as its pretty gloopy stuff. Also when you're swapping engines at the race track its easier just to fill it with water. I use tap water and water wetter and that runs the coolest.
 
DaveL485":2w7rqent said:
Also if I have a system issue while out and about I want to be able to top it up with whatever I have to hand if I can patch it up... anything from a bottle of Vittel to a service station tap to stream water (and I have used all three in the past lol). You can't do that with the waterless stuff, you're stranded.

Not true. You can top it up with any % of water to get you home.
 
So this Evans is nothing more than typical undiluted glycol?? I had no idea. If that is the case, then you are being sold. I go through hundreds of liters of the stuff each year and I can assure you that it does not reduce corrosion to any great deal when placed next to other inhibitors/frost/boil protection additives. Against water on its own it is a million times better obviously though. I'm glad you touched on how gloopy it is. Even when diluted with water at about 75-90degC it is noticably less free flowing than a normal water solution.

Hey its about time the forum has a good debate lol.
 
Put the word [highlight=yellow]Wetter[/highlight] into the search box. A few interesting comments from many years ago.
 
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