5 GT Turbo The Cup Mod (genuine info)

[Adey]

Ok so im trying to be very minimal on my campus build, this cup mod business could be my cup of tea

So most people know what the cup mod to the actuator circuit is but arnt there a few different ones? ie actuator pipework and oil cooler pipe work, im sure there were mods to the intercooler and airbox too though i could be mistaken?

Is there anyone out there with the info for each one, maybe some documentation to back it up?

any of the cup car owners got any info?

 

[Adey]

@Pigsnake @Jesus in the seat of a five @Kris M @Brigsy @Mart any of you guys got any info?

 

[andybond]

Intercooler was strapped when running more than around 16psi

 

[Mart]

Airbox: Force/glue flap in 'cold' position, or remove flap altogether & add another cold feed to what was the 'hot' side.

Intercooler: Remove plastic end-tank, remove thermostat gubbins, glue flap in 'through intercooler' position, refit & seal end-tank.

Oil breather circuit, Cup spec: Remove all breather pipes, remove & blank off breather nrv on inlet manifold, remove oil separator pot. Run breather hose from rocker cover breather outlet to sump return pipe/T'd off to a catch-tank.

I'll post up more tomorrow.

 

[Adey]

that would be legend. i remember seeing documents back in the day showing it all

 

[Brigsy]

I have the cup manual here, ill get some pics later matey. For super minimalistic run the actuator reference pipe off the compressor cover and take the brass barb off the carb, block it off with a bolt

 

[DaveL485]

I have the cup manual here, ill get some pics later matey. For super minimalistic run the actuator reference pipe off the compressor cover and take the brass barb off the carb, block it off with a bolt

Compressor cover feeds always see higher pressure than the system though, remember.

 

[Brigsy]

Compressor cover feeds always see higher pressure than the system though, remember.

You will always see more pressure at the compressor housing to hit the required boost at the inlet. If you use the inner part of the scroll the pressure is turbulent compared to the outer part (its fine i have used both as a ref in the past) - on a gtt you will always need more boost at the compressor to make the same at the inlet (same for most cars?). Say 25lb to make 20 at the inlet. This is why you should always set the boost pressure with a gauge at the inlet so you know what the engine is actually seeing.

 

[Mart]

Can also feed the fpr boost ref' from the turbo snail. Worth doing over 20psi boost, imho.

Few more Cup mod's...

Elongate/open up the top hole of the front suspension struts to increase camber.

Swap the TDC sensor wires for circa 4deg' extra advance.

Drill a ~3mm hole at the top of the thermostat to aid bleeding air from the system.

 

[Mart]

For super minimalistic run the actuator reference pipe off the compressor cover and take the brass barb off the carb, block it off with a bolt

Yep. That's how actuators should always be fed.

 

[Brigsy]

Yep. That's how actuators should always be fed.

Totally agree. I think a lot of turbo cars use the comp cover to actuator standard.

Another cheeky cup mod is moving the track control arms forwards for more caster, i.e pressing the bushes in more.

Another is to fit threaded bar instead of the spring on the rear brake compensator to set the bias permanently.

You can also swap the pipework about on the main/ reserve fuel tank so the reserve tank works like a swirl pot. Not seen it done but instructions are in the manual.

 

[Kris M]

Shite pics but you get the idea, lifted straight from my coupe manual

 

[Kris M]

Bonjour