Classic Solex 32DIS Rebuild guide

Authors: Mart & Big Steve – Raider
May 2014

*Note this Carb has had the choke-flap assembly removed. If the choke-flap is still in situ, it’s fairly obvious which components of the choke assembly will need to be disconnected/removed/re-fitted whilst stripping & re-building the carb.

1. Disconnect all carb hoses, choke cable, accelerator cable, and throttle-return spring. Remove carb elbow (3 x 10mm nuts). Lift off the large o-ring & triangular retaining plate. Remove the carb from the inlet manifold (2 x 13mm nuts).





2. Remove carb top by undoing 6 x flat headed screws.



3. Carefully remove carb top taking care to remove gasket and float. You will find fuel in the float chamber that you need to empty into a jerry can.

4. Remove float pin (simply pulls out) and remove rubber gasket & discard.


5.Remove Needle valve and brass washer with a 14mm socket.



6.Remove fuel inlet nozzle with 12mm deep socket and pull out the fuel filter you will find inside as well.


7. Now that the carb top is fully stripped, clean everything with carb cleaner.

8.Onto the carb body. Remove the accelerator pump jet (Screwdriver is pointing at it) making sure you remove the seal as well (sometimes it stays in the hole).



9.The accelerator pump jet can be carefully disassembled with a pair of pliers, to remove the base. Be careful, this has small parts inside which can be lost easily!! The picture below shows the order the plunger & ball-bearing fit into the jet.



10.Now remove the enrichment block with 3 x flat headed screws. Remove the red gasket and discard.


11.Remove the 3 x long screws from this block and then the second stage enrichment cap can be removed. You will find a large spring in this unit. Again remove the black second stage diaphragm and discard.


12.Remove the 3 x short flat headed screws to remove the first stage enrichment diaphragm. Again beware there is a small spring in this part, be careful not to lose it! Remove the red triangular gasket and discard.



13.Remove the accelerator pump and lever with 4 x flat headed screws. Remove the diaphragm and beware of the small spring that sits behind the diaphragm doesn’t ping off (also note correct orientation of spring – 2nd picture below)



14.Remove the carb base with 2 x Philips screws & discard the fibre gasket that sits between the base & body. Thoroughly clean the body & base (both sides) faces, removing any traces of old gasket, and make sure both faces are straight & level, and not warped.


15. Remove the mixture screw from the carb base, making sure the screw o-ring comes out as well. Check that the mixture screw hole is nice & clean.

 

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16. Remove the air corrector jet.


17. OPTIONAL – Using a suitable sized screw (you can use one of the existing carb base to body screws), screw into where the air corrector jet was located, pull on the screw with a pair of pliers, and remove the emulsion tube from the carb. When removed, check for any swarf build up, and then clean tube & hole with carb cleaner. Tap the emulsion tube back into place with a small hammer making sure the notch is in the 12 o’ clock position.


18. Remove the accelerator pump feed-jet in the bottom of the float chamber to check that the ball bearing is free and the o-ring is in good condition. Refit if ok.


19.To remove the main jet, remove the 12mm blacking plug, and then using a long flat screwdriver, remove the main jet. Check the jet (hole) is clear.


20. Refit main jet. Replace copper washer on main jet blanking plug, and refit.




21.With carb upside-down, fit new gasket to carb body, and insert the 2 x Philips screws and tighten fully. Be aware these screws can loosen, so ensure they are tight. A dab of Loctite (243/270) on the threads will help keep the screws in place.



22.Then fit the new accelerator pump diaphragm/seal and spring. Note the correct orientation of the spring. Ensure top of spring fits to the centre point of the diaphragm, and the lower part of the spring sits within the guides. Check the lever housing for signs of cracking (around where the screws locate). Remove & replace if housing is cracked.



23. To set the lever distance/throw, depress the accelerator pump lever so that the lever (and thus the diaphragm) is fully pushed in & hold it in that position.


24. Now insert a 5mm drill bit between the throttle plate and edge of the carb base (see below picture for reference). Adjust the lever/rod lock-nut until the throttle plate is just resting against the drill bit. You should then still be able to move the throttle cam (so that the throttle plate opens further to its fully open position), but the accelerator pump lever shouldn’t move whilst doing that (the rod will move through the lever as such & the spring will compress). If so, all is good.



25. Insert the accelerator pump feed-jet back into the carb bowl.



26. Next fit the new 1st and 2nd stage enrichment gaskets. 1st stage gasket is red, 2nd stage gasket is black (assuming a Webcon overhaul kit is being used).


27. Fit the spring & first stage cap back on. The spring sits on the diaphragm centre & locates onto the guide in the cap. Tighten the 3 screws.


28. Next put the 2nd stage enrichment cap and spring back on. Again, the spring sits on the diaphragm centre, and the other end sits over the activation pin & cup. Note the position of the enrichment cct atmos’ reference point/overflow outlet in the picture below. Put the 3 x long screws through the assembly to hold the cap in place for now.


29. Fit the triangular red gasket as shown below. You can also check the 1st stage enrichment jet at this point, to make sure it’s clean etc. It’s the jet just above the letter ‘e’ in this picture:

 

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Then screw the enrichment block to the side of the carb (note locating pins).


30. Refit mixture screw - Gently tighten the screw to its end stop, then unscrew circa three & half turns to reach a position the car will re-start & idle at. Mixture screw setting can be fine-tuned (via an afr meter) once engine is upto temperature. Typically mid-high 14 (afr) on a standard cam, maybe a bit richer (to help with the lopey idle) if a hotter cam is in situ.


31. Idle jet – Pull apart & ensure the ‘torpedo’ is clean. Also check all jet holes are clear. Fit ‘torpedo’ into body, then refit screw-head. Fit new idle jet o-ring (if applicable), then re-screw jet into carb.


32. Fit the new accelerator pump jet seal into carb body first, ensuring it’s seated flat.


33. Separate the accelerator pump jet (using pliers) and reverse flush with carb cleaner. Check the plunger & ball-bearing are clean, and re-assemble (plunger into jet body first, then ball-bearing, then end-cap). The jet should ‘rattle’ when shaken. If not, there may be muck on the plunger/bearing, or you’ve squashed the end-cap. Check that the jet arm does not rotate – It should be securely fixed to the body. If it does rotate, remove & replace the jet (or at least the body).


34. Re-fit the accelerator pump jet back into carb body. Make sure the spring is in situ & standing vertically/not bent out of shape.


35. Fit new gasket to carb top, making sure the gasket is aligned to the guide pins.


36. Fit new copper washer to needle valve, and screw into carb top (tight ish).



37. Check float condition (isn’t holed or cracked), then re-fit float with pin. Check that float moves freely & engages with the needle valve as such.


38. Re-fit carb top to carb body, making sure that the accelerator pump spring locates into its hole (through the gasket) – Now hold the carb top in place until at least one of the screws are tight. Re-fit & tighten the other (5) screws.


39. Re-fit fuel inlet filter (ensure open end of fuel filter is facing outside the carb top) and hose tail with new copper washer. Some people choose to do away with the filter, as it can cause a restriction to flow at higher power levels. If any muck makes it way through from the tank/filter, it’ll probably become lodged in the needle valve, either keeping it open & thus flooding the chamber, or more than likely, blocking the needle valve orifice, causing fuel starvation. Both scenarios are unlikely though.


40. Re-fit triangular retaining plate & large o-ring. Carb is now fully re-assembled. Congratulate yourself on a job well done!! Just the carb to re-fit now…


41. Place a fibre gasket on the inlet manifold throat, followed by the nylon spacer, and then the remaining fibre gasket. Re-fit carb to manifold, re-fit carb elbow, re-connect all carb hoses, re-connect the throttle & choke cables, and the throttle-return spring. Once everything is connected/re-fitted, start the engine - It’ll take 5-10 seconds of cranking to fill the float chamber sufficiently enough to fire up the engine. Once engine is upto temperature, adjust & set the mixture screw, and the idle (screw) if need be. If a choke-flap is fitted, check choke operation & adjust choke cable position if required (via retaining clip). Likewise for the choke’s fast-idle screw (it should ‘engage’ onto the throttle cam approx 1/3rd to 50% rotation.