Title: Fitting An Aftermarket OMG Exhaust
Author: JAINY
Date: 8th May 2007
Associated Forum Post URL: Forum Link
Tools and Equipment You Will Need
- Suitable working surface (e.g., concrete driveway, garage)
- Ramps (metal, not wood or bricks)
- Torque screw, miniature ratchet, and small socket (size to be confirmed)
- Silicone grease
- Rubber mallet
- Large screwdriver for leverage
First Stages
Before you start:
1. Clean the black plastic infill panel behind the rear wheels and the entire rear bumper/valance.
2. Pay special attention to the butted seams on the center section where the joint is, to avoid scratching when removing.
3. Line the inside of the exhaust cutouts in the valance to protect from damage.
Removing the Panels
1. Locate the Torque Screws:
The torque screws are highlighted in red in the attached photo. These need to be removed first.
The first panel to remove is the black plastic infill behind the rear wheels.
There are 2 or 3 torque head fixing screws behind the rear wheel area and 1 underneath the panel.
2. Accessing the Valance Fixings:
Removing the above panels gives access to the valance fixings.
These are small bolts, some of which are hard to reach. Flexibility (and small hands) will be helpful.
Continue along the panel and up the sides of the rear light area.
After removing the bolts, check for any missed ones as you move to the next step.
3. Final Fixings:
The last torque-headed fixings are 2 under the rear hatch. Lift the hatch and you’ll see them securing the valance to the body.
Once the panel is removed, use a sheet or something soft to avoid damaging the panel.
Removing the Existing Exhaust Box
1. Undo Flange Clamps:
Start by loosening the flange clamps holding the exhaust to the pipes. If these don’t shift easily, use a wooden or rubber mallet to knock them loose.
After loosening, use a screwdriver to apply leverage to the fixing holes to open them further.
2. Support the Exhaust:
Place something under the exhaust to support its weight once the clamps are loose.
3. Remove the Rubber Hangers:
Undo the clamps holding the rubber hangers bolted to the car body.
This should allow the exhaust to be removed (be cautious, as it is heavy).
4. Loosen Left Pipe Clamp:
It may help to loosen the clamp on the left-hand pipe from the collector box to allow adjustment for positioning of the new exhaust.
5. Position the New Exhaust:
Apply silicone grease to help position and adjust the pipe.
Push the pipe back into place and tighten the clamp when the fit is correct.
Fitting the OMG Exhaust
1. Clean and Apply Silicone Grease:
Clean all fixings and apply silicone grease to the rods where the rubbers hang. This will make them easier to slide into position.
2. Refit the New Exhaust:
Fit the new exhaust, but leave the hanger bolts a little loose at first. This will allow adjustment for the best fit.
Try placing the valance in position to check the alignment. Take your time with this step, as it may take a while to get the right alignment.
3. Refit the Union Clamps:
Ensure the union clamps are pulled up tightly and securely for a proper fit.
4. Protect the Valance:
Put masking tape on the tailpipes to prevent damage to the valance. Make sure the valance fixing points and flanges are very clean to avoid scratches.
5. Final Fitting of the Valance:
Once everything is aligned, refit the valance with the torque screws.
Tighten the screws carefully to ensure everything is secure and properly aligned.
Tips
- While many people have fitted the OMG exhaust without removing the bumper, I found it much easier to do with the bumper off for better access.
- Jacking up the car made it easier to access the torque screws, especially those behind the wheel.
- Fitting the screws back in can be tricky, so take your time, especially if you're working in less-than-ideal conditions like at night in the rain.
Author: JAINY
Date: 8th May 2007
Associated Forum Post URL: Forum Link
Tools and Equipment You Will Need
- Suitable working surface (e.g., concrete driveway, garage)
- Ramps (metal, not wood or bricks)
- Torque screw, miniature ratchet, and small socket (size to be confirmed)
- Silicone grease
- Rubber mallet
- Large screwdriver for leverage
First Stages
Before you start:
1. Clean the black plastic infill panel behind the rear wheels and the entire rear bumper/valance.
2. Pay special attention to the butted seams on the center section where the joint is, to avoid scratching when removing.
3. Line the inside of the exhaust cutouts in the valance to protect from damage.
Removing the Panels
1. Locate the Torque Screws:
The torque screws are highlighted in red in the attached photo. These need to be removed first.
The first panel to remove is the black plastic infill behind the rear wheels.
There are 2 or 3 torque head fixing screws behind the rear wheel area and 1 underneath the panel.
2. Accessing the Valance Fixings:
Removing the above panels gives access to the valance fixings.
These are small bolts, some of which are hard to reach. Flexibility (and small hands) will be helpful.
Continue along the panel and up the sides of the rear light area.
After removing the bolts, check for any missed ones as you move to the next step.
3. Final Fixings:
The last torque-headed fixings are 2 under the rear hatch. Lift the hatch and you’ll see them securing the valance to the body.
Once the panel is removed, use a sheet or something soft to avoid damaging the panel.
Removing the Existing Exhaust Box
1. Undo Flange Clamps:
Start by loosening the flange clamps holding the exhaust to the pipes. If these don’t shift easily, use a wooden or rubber mallet to knock them loose.
After loosening, use a screwdriver to apply leverage to the fixing holes to open them further.
2. Support the Exhaust:
Place something under the exhaust to support its weight once the clamps are loose.
3. Remove the Rubber Hangers:
Undo the clamps holding the rubber hangers bolted to the car body.
This should allow the exhaust to be removed (be cautious, as it is heavy).
4. Loosen Left Pipe Clamp:
It may help to loosen the clamp on the left-hand pipe from the collector box to allow adjustment for positioning of the new exhaust.
5. Position the New Exhaust:
Apply silicone grease to help position and adjust the pipe.
Push the pipe back into place and tighten the clamp when the fit is correct.
Fitting the OMG Exhaust
1. Clean and Apply Silicone Grease:
Clean all fixings and apply silicone grease to the rods where the rubbers hang. This will make them easier to slide into position.
2. Refit the New Exhaust:
Fit the new exhaust, but leave the hanger bolts a little loose at first. This will allow adjustment for the best fit.
Try placing the valance in position to check the alignment. Take your time with this step, as it may take a while to get the right alignment.
3. Refit the Union Clamps:
Ensure the union clamps are pulled up tightly and securely for a proper fit.
4. Protect the Valance:
Put masking tape on the tailpipes to prevent damage to the valance. Make sure the valance fixing points and flanges are very clean to avoid scratches.
5. Final Fitting of the Valance:
Once everything is aligned, refit the valance with the torque screws.
Tighten the screws carefully to ensure everything is secure and properly aligned.
Tips
- While many people have fitted the OMG exhaust without removing the bumper, I found it much easier to do with the bumper off for better access.
- Jacking up the car made it easier to access the torque screws, especially those behind the wheel.
- Fitting the screws back in can be tricky, so take your time, especially if you're working in less-than-ideal conditions like at night in the rain.
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