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rough idle,now blown ecu

devo

Active Member
Hows it goin?

getting a bit of trouble with a ph1 19 16v,bought it a few years ago as a project but never had time till now to work on it.it used to run fine when id start it every couple of weeks.then about a month ago i started it and it ran very rough,like it was only goin on 3 cylinders. it would start & run fine for 2 secs,then start spluttering and roughly idle at about 5-600 rpm for about 5-10 secs and cut out.it wouldnt take any throttle unless i kept flooring it & leting it off quickly.even then it wouldnt rev over 1500 rpm.i pulled my ph2 up beside it and swapped as many parts as i could to see what the problem but it stayed the same.parts i swapped were,coil, MAP sensor, plug leads,idle control valve,throttle sensor,fuel pump relay. i tried the ph1 ECU on the ph2 and it ran fine.one thing i did notice was the idle control valve hummed when the ignition was switched on.with all its original parts back on it was pot luck if it started each time i tried until it got to the stage it wouldnt start at all.tried the ph1 ecu on the ph2 again and it wouldnt start it.opened the ECU and found a burnt diode.Im wondering if anyone else has had the same problems?il get the ECU repaired but dont want to put it back on the car till i find out wot causeing the problem.thanks for any help
 
Have you tried the crank sensor? I had similar problems once, except blown ecu, & turned out to be this.
 
maybe you have a vacuum leak?

also, be careful when fiddling with the throttle pot, if it's not adjusted correctly, you'll get problems..

you could also have a short in the loom causing the ecu failure. do you know if the diode died before or after you started swapping parts?
 
Didnt swap the crank sensor,i,ll try it 2moro on the other car.didnt find any leaks when it was running.Reckon the diode blew after the parts were swapped and because it still fired up when it own parts were put back on.It very well could be loom damage because the rear&offside mounts were snapped when i got the car and the engine&box were just resting on what they could,probly the wiring.I,ll pull the loom out and examine it.Thanks for the info lads.
 
Thanks Chet,will do.Give you a txt on thurs and see if your around.Tried the crank sensor after and that aint the problem.
 
yeah tried that as well,someone had cut and joined the wires on it.I pulled them apart,still ran bad.connected them back up and still the same.has anyone ever tried pulling 2 cars up beside each other and connecting the 1st cars engine loom to the 2nd cars main loom and see if the 1st car would run???was gona try it to see if maybe the main loom is at fault.
 
I had a problem with mine about a year ago where it would start fine, but run really badly (on the edge of cutting out), and blipping the throttle had no effect.. turned out the ignition module was at fault in the end.. found one at the scrappies from an injected clio mk 1 1.4 (yes, they all use the same ignition module) and the problem was solved..
 
icv is probably seizing thus the burnt out component.

Swap an ignition module with one of chets to rule that out.
 
The idle valve was buzzing on both cars with the ph1 from what I remember.

I replaced the diode and the ecu works in the ph2 now so at least that's something
 
generally they only buzz briefly until they are fully opened for starting, however some I know have buzzed until running
 
Thanks for sortin the ECU Chet,fair play to ya.Il drop up that ECU connector when i get a chance.The idle valves from both cars only buzzed when fitted to the PH1.Think il pull the loom out and check for damage.
 
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