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Renault 19 16 V Chamade Phase 1 ABS

cam belt

Member
HI All,

I am the owner of the above car since 1995 and it has been well cared for since, looking great for a 92. One problem has persisted though for some time and I could do with some advice:

It's Bendix ABS light stays on often but will clear if the engine unit is warmed up a bit? Has anyone ever known of water ingress into this component or similar behaviour?

Cheers, in waiting
 
Hi, welcome to retro ren!

get some pics up and stick around!

as for the ABS problem, should really be posted in the tech questions forum but nevermind.

although I can't really shed any light on your specific problem, I can tell you that the bendix system is rather notorious for its failures I'm afraid.
 
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Welcome and at freaking last im no longer alone around here! The "widow maker" abs is usually better off removed completely, because when it fails you loose your breaks. Im guessing that yours still work.
 
Hi Pete,

Yes the breaks work fine it's just I get the light up from time to time and it responds fine to dry storage. What is the 'Widow maker' term you refer too and if the abs was removed, what about the MOT?

A stranger left a note on my car for this site, so even though there aren't many 19 16V's left, others too do like the rarity factor around these parts.

Regards,

Mike
 
Cam belt

Hi Neal,

Thanks for the welcome and the info, would like to show photo's but unable to post them to the site. Any ideas?

Regards,

Mike
 
the 'Widow Maker' moniker reflects the fact that when the Bendix ABS system suffers certain failures, you lose any ability to brake. That could happen at any time, including while on the move, and it if happens on a twisty country road or at 70mph on the motorway, you can guess what happens!

Replacement pump/ accumulator units for the system are prohibitively expensive new. The ABS can be removed by using the master cylinder/servo/pedal box from a non-ABS or Bosch ABS car, and modifying the brake pipes to suit. Doing the conversion is quite easy in itself, but unfortunately the engine has to come out, which is why one way or another, a Bendix ABS failure almost always results in the car being destroyed or scrapped.

MOT will not be an issue with the ABS removed.
 
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Neal,

You seem to know quite a lot on this, what exactly is entailed in modifying the brake pipes? and the bits you have quoted, any ideas on cost?

You are an inspiration,

Regards,

Mike
 
Hi Pete,

A stranger left a note on my car for this site, so even though there aren't many 19 16V's left, others too do like the rarity factor around these parts.

Regards,

Mike

Yeah I know, I do appologise for my scruffy handwriting. Noticed it on the way to the bank and in my haste to get out before my 20 mins free parking were up I quickly left a note. Im sure ive seen your car around afew times before.
 
Chris H has done the ABS removal mod on his 'project scrapheap challenge' car.

cost wise, whatever it costs you to get the pedal box/servo/master cylinder from a non-ABS or Bosch-ABS car from a scrappy or off ebay. Then some bits of copper brake pipe and some unions.

Once Chris updates his project report on the ABS removal, you will see whats involved in pictures.
 
Are there any differents about 16V brakes (box/servo/master cylinder ) and 8valver f3p engines? Because I have bendix abs system and sometimes this lamp lights up. But my car is left hand drive - are there any differents with systems( I dont need to remove engine when I want to replace this brake system :lol: ) but I can get this box/master sylinder from F3P engined car.
 
I hope you dont mind, I took a piccie as well as leaving a note:

17-01-07_1150.jpg
 
light should go off within 5 seconds of the engine starting.

Pump should stop within 1/2 seconds at start up unless theres a problem.
 
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